I am getting error message 22 E when self-diagnostics is run. The fridge side is not cooling properly and the temperature is around 55-60'F when it should be at 36'F. The fan was making a lot of noise a few days ago but after turning the unit off for a while and turning it back on the noise stopped. I figured ice must be forming around it on the evaporator coils. Yesterday morning there was a puddle of water underneath and the fridge was warm. Freezer works fine though. I think I can still hear the fan on this side but it is barely turning. The freezer fan seems to be working fine. The fridge temp reads 36'F now but is nowhere near that and I get error message 22 E. What is the real problem here and best way to fix it....thank you
These answers work guys and get used to coming to the forums every few monyhs. Never buy a Samsung again I've had to service mine some form or another at least 8 times in the past two years I did just read about paying close attention to the Styrofoam around the fan drain and possibly trimming I hope that makes it last longer than two months
Your problem seems serious, but it can be solved without the help of a service center. You can perform self-diagnosis. If you see the error codes on the display of your refrigerator - solve the problem will be even easier. It is enough to find information about that error code on the Internet, and in the user's manual. Samsung refrigerator error code 22e
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
SOURCE: Samsung RS2556 - Refrigerator side is not cooling - Freezer is fine
I have RS2555 in same problem.my warranty is expired and Samsung hooked me up to an technician who asked for 300.00 for labor plus parts and tax, what a rip off!!I I called my Canadian friend who's a technician and I was told to POWER OFF the RS2555 for 24 hrs.both doors MUST open and take out all drawers,he said ,it is 90% the ICE blocked the cool airflowing,so if ICE melted,all will return to normal.
It works after I did what he said.share this and hope can help some one with same problem!
SOURCE: Samsung RCS21DCNS Side by Side
probly the evaporator coil in fridge all frozen up you need to pull all the back out inside the fridge section and defrost with air drier
SOURCE: loud noise from the freezer side
The problem is a buildup of ice on the plastic housing (the curved plastic bit) in the back of the freezer under the fixed shelf where the icetub goes. The fan behind this plastic housing is hitting the ice when the defrost comes on.
Unplug the fridge, unpack the freezer, remove the four screws in the back, take off the sheetmetal backing and let the fridge thaw. You can remove the plastic piece after a while and get the ice off (be careful not to remove the styrofoam insulation by going too quickly).
Reassemble and you're back in business, for a few months. I'm never buying Samsung again myself.
SOURCE: We have a samsung side by side fridge freezer
Hi. If you remove the light unit ond the lower casing which has four screws two of which are under the small vent covers that unclip. The light unit by the way has two screws under the difuser and that unclips. Mark the top before removeing with tape to give ease of replacement. After removing the top light unit inside the fridge and unclipping the two electrical terminals it can be removed. The same is true for the lower unit. Be aware the lower unit will be frozen in place. Ease it away to break the ice seal and remove the electrical connections. Use a hairdrier on full powar to fefrost the cooler unit at the rear of the fridge. Use the same method to defrost the removed fan unit. Pay attention to the fan drain. It may need the insulation trimming to make it drain and work again when re installed. Cut it away with a craft knife. When it is dry and defrosted re install in using the reverse procedure. Be aware it will frost up again and need you to do the whole thing again as soon as the fan gives signs of fouling on ice. You will hear it catch. Regards. Paul.
SOURCE: SAMSUNG RS253BAWW NOT WORKING
the ice maker wont cycle untill the temp of the ice is around 10 degrees so if the freezer is at 15 or 20 due to some other malfunction then you will see the maker full of ice but it wont harvest and make another batch. so you could have a sensor bad, control malfunction, refrigeration issue, compressor, defrost system malfunction(you mentioned ice build up)
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i literally have same exact issue
even temps are same already tried defrosting & putting in new mother board & evaporator fan (per tech advice) still not working & now freezer warm
did you ever solve problem ?
Soooo, I'm guessing this was not resolved?
I was able to fix this exact code (22E). After our doors got left open overnight, and closed the next morning, we noticed it wasn't getting colder. Did an initial reset of 30 minutes and boom, up came the code. We pulled everything out of the fridge - ice maker, drawers, all stuff - and left it doors open, unplugged and with large fan blowing at it. Waited about 12 hours and plugged back in. Reset just fine.
Can someone help me with error codes PC and Ch?
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