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thank you i open one of the high pass cap and there it was it was two 63v3300fu were bad...thank you i open one of the high pass cap and there it was it was two 63v3300fu were bad...
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A flashing green light on a Swann 960H Pro Series security camera system can indicate a few different things, depending on the specific model and configuration of your system. Some possible causes of a flashing green light include:
The camera is in setup mode: When a camera is first powered on, it may flash a green light to indicate that it is in setup mode and ready to be configured.
The camera is in standby mode: When the camera is not actively recording, it may flash a green light to indicate that it is in standby mode and ready to start recording.
The camera is recording: Some models of the Swann 960H Pro Series security camera system have a green light that flashes when the camera is recording.
The camera is low on power: Some models of the Swann 960H Pro Series security camera system have a green light that flashes when the camera is low on power.
The camera is malfunctioning : Some models of the Swann 960H Pro Series security camera system have a green light that flashes when the camera is malfunctioning.
The reason the camera has the green light is not to warn that the flash is off. The green light is used to help the camera auto-focus in low light situations. If you disable auto-focus and use manual focus the green light should not flash when taking the picture. Let me know if that helps!
have you checked the spark plug caps, if they read above or below 5000 ohms replace them. If they are good then the news is bad. You could have a bad cdi box but more likely with this model , you have bad pulsar pick ups, which unfortunately are part of the alternator assembly. These can be checked without removing the engine by taking readings from the plug going to the cdi box. ac generator disconnect the stator wires at their connections. X10omega white-blue 77-95 ohms green-white 387-473 ohms orange-green 95-116 ohms light blue-green 95-116 ohms orange/red-green 81-99 ohms light blue/red-green 81-99 ohms
I would check the caps with ohm meter. Make sure they all show increasing resistance. Caps can be bad without looking bad. Check output voltage on the power board, should be around 12V. If all that checks out then I'd look next at the backlight bulb. I'v repaired many monitors and the problem was almost always overheated caps on the power board. Post back and let me know.
There are actually some certain meaning on the red light and green
light showing different information to user. The summaries are: 1) Green On, Red Off = Printer Ready. 2) Green Fast-Flashing, Red Fast-Flashing = Printer warm up. 3) Green Fast-Flashing, Red Off = Printer off-line. 4) Green Slow-Flashing, Red Off = Processing Data. 5) Green Off, Red On = Cover Opened, Toner Empty or Developer Unit / Drum unit missing. 6) Green Off, Red Fast-Flashing = Paper Jam or waiting for jam reset. 7) Green Off, Red Slow-Flashing = Paper Empty or Paper tray is not inserted. 8) Green Off, Red Off = Printer power is off. 9) Green Very-Slow-Flashing, Red Off = Printer in sleep mode. 10) Green (any condition above), Red Slow-Flashing = Toner low or paper empty.
So what is your printer condition? Better know what is going on your printer so can solve the problem
Ok the lightning bolt is your power indicator: solid green-charging, Flashing green-fully charged, flashing red-low battery, flashing red three times the once green-bad battery. the "trash can" looking one is your hard drive activity indicator it will flash while your hard drive is reading and writing.
one possible cause: many cars use the engine coolant temperature sensor to control idle speed and to shut down a dangerously overheated engine. if this sensor is sending a false signal, the controller will not know that and it will continue to listen to it. your task is to try and see if this signal is true or false. do this by measuring (USING A HAND-HELD MULTIMETER SET TO LOW OHMS RESISTANCE TEST) the resistance change across this sensor identified by a blue/white or yellow/red wire at one connector and a brown/green wire at the other connector. the sensor is located near the thermostat on the hot side of the coolant outlet from engine. if you find no change in ohms or find infinity ohms or always zero ohms, change the sensor and the light may fix itslef over time.
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