How do you remove the cylinder from the nailer

Ez test. With nails removed, and door open driver should be at top of cylinder. If driver is down replace piston oring. If driver is up, lightly strike nose of gun against softwood. The driver should stay at top. If driver drops with light tap replace piston oring. If driver stays at top dry fire the nailer against softwood. The driver should hit the softwood leaving a mark and return to top. If driver stays down or does not travel all the way up pull the cylinder and make sure checkband is installed. Checkband is oring or rubber band covering series of holes on lower part of cylinder. Good luck

Could be the check-band around the cylinder. Easy to check. Remove the head and pull out the cylinder. There should be a rubber band covering a series of pin-holes drilled into the cylinder. Usually the band will fall out of place or break. Use any rubber that will stay in place to cover the holes. Good luck.

The driver returns to top when piston ring fits snugly against cylinder, the lower bumper is in good condition, driver guide/seal is in place below the bumper, check band is in place around the outer part of cylinder and driver blade is not bent. Remove the head and pull out the cylinder. Examine the parts mentioned above and make sure that there is a band around lower part of cylinder covering series of holes. Good luck

Piston does not return to top is caused by bent driver, worn lower bumper missing check valve or worn piston oring. Remove the head and pull out the cylinder and driver. Check the driver for bent shaft and that the piston/oring fits snugly into cylinder; make adjustment as needed. The lower bumper should not be cracked or missing pieces. Below the bumper is a seal that should fit snugly around the driver blade. Most all nailers have a check valve around the outer lower part of the cylinder. Could be oring or look like rubber band. This checkvalve will fit snugly over a series of holes cut into cylinder and causes the piston to return to top (not all nailers have this checkvalve). Lube all parts with silicone paste lube or nailer oil. Good luck

Piston not retracting is caused by several issues including bent driver blade, piston oring too worn, or check band on the outer part of the cylinder broken / out of place. Easy to check. Remove the head and pull the driver. Examine driver for bend. If not bent insert driver into cylinder and check for worn oring. The driver/oring should fit snugly and driver should hold in position in the cylinder without sliding down the cylinder under its own weight. Examine the lower bumper for missing pieces or cracked. Replace as needed. If driver /oring and bumper are ok, pull out the cylinder and examine the check band. Black piece of rubber covering series of small holes. Should fig snugly on cylinder, replace as needed. Repair kit does not include the lower bumper or the checkband. Good luck with your repair.

Air leaking thru nozzle (where nail exits ) can be caused by two issues. Air leaking past valve rubber at top of cylinder where headvalve seals when under pressure. If leaking at valve rubber seal the piston will usually be pushed down if there are no nails in gun. If the driver stays up while leaking then problem is at cylinder plate. This plate has two orings that seal air pressure. On seals against the body of gun and the other seals against cylinder. Leaks can occur if body of gun is worn, warped or has scratches where oring makes contact. Also look closely at the plate for crackes. Replace parts as needed. Good luck

Assuming there is no air leaking from the gun, the check seal (part #175520) causes piston to retract. It is a band that fits around the cylinder and covers vent holes in cylinder. You can use orings in place of band (or be creative). Other reasons for piston not returning to top include bent driver, worn piston oring, or cylinder/ oring lacking oil. Good luck

Your nailer has a rubber band (cylinder ring) around the cylinder that causes piston to return to top. Remove head, remove cylinder and check that band is in place. It covers a series of holes around cylinder. This band should fit snuggly or it will slip off cylinder. Too much oil will cause this band to swell. While you have the gun apart, check that the piston fits snuggly in cylinder. The piston should not slide down cylinder under its own weight. Parts are available at www.toolpartsdirect.com. Good luck on your repar.

the top!! o-ring inside of thr top plate is bad you need to remove the plate /dissasemble and replace the o-ring

This can be caused by any number of reasons.

If your piston driver does retract and slowly slides back to the downward position. This is a good indication that your piston o-ring is worn and needs replacing.

However the most common cause of the problem in which the driver will not retract at all, is that an o-ring has broken or has popped off of your piston cylinder. This o-ring is located in the bottom chamber of the gun.

Generally if the tool has not had the o-rings replaced in over a year, and if the tool is used quite often, it is good to have all the o-rings replaced especially when they are in contact with moving parts. Also as a rule, if you are unfamiliar with pneumatic tool repair, remove only the parts necessary to your problem. Often one problem can compound to many if you interfere with parts that are working properly.

To make a quick repair take following steps:

Disconnect the tool from air supply.

Remove the head cap from the body by removing the 4 bolts on the top. Be careful not to tear the gasket if you do not have a replacement.

With a thin tool pop the piston driver out of the top, by pushing upwards from the nose end.

If tool has dirt, excess oil, or grit inside clean it up as much as possible especially around rubber o-rings. Keep in mind that the tool needs oil to remain lubricated, don't leave tool dry around o-rings.

Use two head cap screws to gently remove the cylinder plate that is now exposed around the piston cylinder. Gently pull upwards (friction and an o-ring hold this tightly in place).

Now you can remove the piston cylinder. It may pop up because it is spring loaded, or it may be stuck downward. Carefully work it loose so it can be removed.

Examine the o-rings on the cylinder. Are any out of position? If there are any broken they must be replaced. If one popped out of position, reposition it.

The o-ring that can cause this problem is most likely the large rubber ring that covers a series of smaller holes that are positioned around middle portion of the cylinder.

Replace parts in the reverse manner of removal. Lubricate o-rings with appropriate assembly grease which is best, or pneumatic tool oil.

When the cylinder plate is reassembled, make sure that the cylinder is up. In other words, the spring that is surrounding the cylinder below the plate must be released as much as possible. This will enable flush contact between the cylinder and the parts on the head cap when the tool is assembled fully.

Replace the gasket, head cap, and the four bolts.

Hook tool up to air supply, check for air leaks, test fire tool.