When I turn it on, the light and heating element switch from on to off regularly until the water reaches temp, whereas it used to stay on until it reaches temp. Now the power switch will stay down the entire time until it's hot like it's trying to heat up the water. However, it's not the constant heat that it used to have.
I've cleaned it and checked the plug, its clean and fine.
It sound like the temperature sensor that switches the kettle off when it has reached the correct temperature is faulty. It would probably be cheeper to replace than repair
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OK, inside the unit there are three items, the heating element, thermostat, and thermal fuse.What has happened is the element got too hot and the thermal fuse opened.There is no reset button.In some cases you may run across a defective heating element or thermostat but its not common.The fix would probably be replacement of the thermostat and thermal fuse.For this, you would have to contact a small appliance repair center in your area.
Goodluck,
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Kettles generally do this, Here's why: As it's heating up, the water next to the element turns to gas and starts to rise to the top. Since the gas bubbles are small at first, they turn back to water before reaching the surface and water rushes in to fill the space - this is what creates the noise. When the element gets quite hot, however, it can convert the water to gas more quickly which creates bigger bubbles that float to the top and burst into the air.
So, the longer it takes to heat up, the longer it makes noise. Some kettles have a more powerful element that simply gets to the second stage more quickly. The 'cordless' ones like yours have a smaller connection from the power to the element and it takes a bit longer. Worthwile, considering the convenience, in my opinion.
sounds like there's water in the element. Empty it out and let it dry out completely for a few days, and then try it again.
If the element is a concealed element (ie- you can't see the coils when you open the lid up) then there's probably a water leak into the sealed compartment.
Contact the manufacturer for a recommended repairer.
I had a similar failure with my Braun WK600. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out
before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from
Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell
tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being
open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also
has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle
after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the
element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They
protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element
temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case
where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these
are the likely culprit. In my kettle the contacts did not line up
correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially
overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings
from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance
and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the
surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element
behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out
of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal
switch. I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused
into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it
will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal
switch. I have boiled a couple of kettleful's; so far so good!
Oh, and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault.
OK, inside the unit there are three items, the heating element, thermostat, and thermal fuse.What has happened is the element got too hot and the thermal fuse opened.There is no reset button.In some cases you may run across a defective heating element or thermostat but its not common.The fix would probably be replacement of the thermostat and thermal fuse.For this, you would have to contact a small appliance repair center in your area.
There's a thermal cutout that trips if the regular safety switch isn't enough. According to the manual, if the thermal cutout trips you have to send it back to Breville for servicing.
That may be what happened, if just letting it cool down and trying again didn't work.
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