The rubber ******** the top wheel comes off - Sears Saws

Likely. Check for leaks and fill to proper level.

Cam is the degree that the wheels lean out (positive) or in (negative) at the top of the wheel in the straight ahead position. It is adjusted by either moving the top control arm in or out or the bottom arm(Ford falcon) in or out . In a McPherson strut Where the pivot goes up into the mudguard into a rubber bush at the top) it is adjusted by rotating that rubber bush. It has to be done on a wheel aligning machine or rapid tyre wear will result.

This could be a big wild guess on how the tire comes off on the wheel. But I'll try to help you this thing. I don't know if your bandsaw has adjustment bolt above the upper wheel and below the lower wheel, but in case there is , use these bolts to center the band saw. Well, this could also be blade tension adjustment. Tires should be a very tight fit and a struggle to get on.
Wait, was tired glued on? If not, reglue.
Is that an old tire? If yes, tire must be well worn out and time to invest new ones.
I recommend you to use this time urethane tires rather than rubber tires.
Rubber tires works fine but urethane tires last longer and doesn't need gluing. When you purchase a new tire, make sure that it is a couple of inches smaller than the wheel to stretch the tire. It is a good advice to slightly tilt the top of the drive wheels towards you. I've been purchasing urethane tire with www.bandsawparts.com. Got one from them and still up running. Piece of advise also,Before installing the new tires, you double-check the surfaces of the pulleys to make sure the surfaces are clean and true.

If you took the center nut and washer off then the steering wheel should come off. It is a splined fit- try a little persuasion with a rubber mallet.
BTW... there is no reason to remove the dashboard or steering wheel to replace the ignition switch!

either the bobbin winder is seized or the rubber wheel has broken or come off. if it has seized you will need to dis-assemble it and clean out old gummed up oil and grease and re-assemble, or replace rubber wheel.

scott

If all the lugnuts are removed try kicking the tire with the bottom of your foot on one side of the wheel then the other to loosen the wheel from the hub or if you dont want to do this you can use a rubber mallet on the wheel in the same way-from side to side top to bottom if this dosen't help a professional may need to remove it.

My Delta 14" had the same problem. My fix was to get new rubbers, took care of my issue. They do stretch, but the newer the rubbers are the more the will retain there form, the older they are, not so much.

anaanymous

top feeder for the scanner (on my x6570) had a loose piece of rubber stuck between the feed wheels. The rubber is part of the guiding mechanism that guides the paper to the feed wheels. Remove rubber strip and reattach it where it belongs.

Actuallly, I took apart my WIE 2.0 for the first time to clean out a soda mishap. While inside, I noticed that the housing that the rubber wheel sits VERY tight to the top and bottom of the housing it is placed in. I would say that this is probably a design flaw, by the choice or thickness of rubber they used for the wheel, or not allowing enough room in the wheel housing.

*I realize that this is VERY difficult to imagine if you have not disassembled your WIE 2.0 before*
- remove the batteries
- undo the screw in the battery compartment
- flip up the top shell upwards, from the bottom and lifting (the top edge is secured by plastic latches you SHOULD NOT break)
- unplug the wheel sensor from the mainboard (tricky, again do NOT destroy any pins/capacitors)
- pull out the wheel casing, disassembling each part (they only come together/apart in ONE way, do not force or reverse axis positions)
- once you get the wheel/sensor out of all the housings, you can do one of 3 things:

1) shave some of the hard plactic from inside of the innermost casing, to avoid the wheel rubbing at the top and bottom of the "slot" the wheel is settled in. Take care not the remove any latches/axes needed to attach everything together!
2) shave the actual wheel rubber thinner, for the same reasons
3) remove the rubber completely, leaving the plastic sections of the wheel (which is what I did)

- clean and re-lubricate the wheel and casings if you like (but I find it works better without ANY of that dirty lube they use)
- put everything back together again, and now that you have reduced the friction in the wheel, it spins MUCH more freely.
- enjoy your scrolling freedom!


side effects:
- if you shaved or removed the wheel rubber, you will have less leverage for side scrolling
- if you removed the wheel rubber, you will have less traction on your finger for up/down scrolling
- if you removed the wheel rubber, it is much easier for dirt to get trapped in the wheel casing (meaning more frequent "take-apart cleaning" sessions)

Place a few papers in the tray.
Open up the top, pull out the main (green handle) thingy.
In the very bottom you will see a bar with a single large round rubber wheel in the middle, and white gears on both ends of the bar.
Manually turn the right side gear toward you.
As you do this, you will see the paper lift up and as the rubber wheel turns you will see that it has a notch on the bottom side.
Turn the gear, and watch the rubber wheel until the notch on the rubber wheel is facing up and away from you (and the paper is fully engaged).
Then put the green-handle thingy back in, close the printer, and it should work.
Apparently this resets something.  I have done it a number of times - usually after a paper jam.