Brand new dryer wont heat

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat

MAKE SURE YOUR VENT ISNT CLOGGED AND YOU HAVE 220 VOLTS AT THE DRYER IF ALL THIS CHECKS OUT GO TO ELEMENT WHICH IS BEHIND THE LOWER PANEL IN THE FRONT.REMOVE THE PANEL WITH THREE SCREWS ON THE BOTTOM AND TAP DOWN AND OUT AT THE SAME TIME. USE A VOLT OHM METER AND CHECK OHMS ACROSS THE TERMINALS OF THE HEATER IT SHOULD HAVE A OHM READING IF NOT CHANGE HEATER AND OPERATING THERMOSTAT GOOD LUCK

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat

it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

SOURCE: NEW Electric Whirlpool Cabrio Steam Dryer; NO HEAT

Check temperature sensor.  Check to see if heating element is OK.

SOURCE: Electric Dryer remains running without heat and trips breaker

Your dryer needs a new timer.

SOURCE: no heat from dryer

This is a common problem with ALL electric dryers. What is most likely the problem is either a) your heating element has broken or b) your high limit cutoff has blown (this is simply a fuse that blows when it gets to hot). These problems almost 100% are cause from a vent that is clogged.

To know if your vent is clogged you go outside where the dryer vent exits the house. The air flow should be quite good, and you should be able to hear it from several feet away. If you feel no air, you have a clog. The clog MUST be fixed or you will have the same problem again.

To figure out what has gone wrong with the dryer we have to access the back of the machine. UNPLUG the dryer from the wall. Pull the dryer away and get behind. Remove the back panel (8 1/4 inch screws). The heating element is at the bottom right. There are two 1/4 inch screws holding it in. There will also be 2-3 wires on the left hand side. Note where these were plugged in, and then disconnect them.

Now, with the heating element in your hands you can see the coils. These glow red when the dryer works and get extremely hot. I pinch two coils at a time and look for a break. If you can visually see a coil broken that is your problem. If you have a multimeter you can check the continuity of the heater by touching your leads to the terminals the red wires you disconnected were plugged into. If the heater is fine, reconnect it.

Above the heater is the high limit cutoff. It has two wires going to it. The only way to know if it is good is to check it with a multimeter. If you know someone that can check the continuity, do it. These are 90% - 95% of the problem. But keep in mind, they are not the source of the problem. The heating element breaks for a reason, and the high limit cutoff blows for a reason. Check your vent!

Now, your model number is missing a character in between the 4 and the Q. I will need this to be complete and I can tell you the part numbers or the heating element and cutoff switch and an average price :)

Testimonial: "Yup it was the heater!! I was able to remove and replace it for a fraction of what it would have cost me to have the repair man do it. Thanks for all your help."