Burner lights, fan wont come on, fan runs on manual setting, has new fan switch set at 110

Sounds to me like it is going off on a weak high limit switch. With the fan on it will prolong the event but will not stop it. I would check all of the high limit switches. It would most likely be one close to the heat exchanger.

Make sure your tstat is programmed for electric, not gas. Or in the settings you want that the TSTAT CONTROLS THE FAN.

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If your pilot light is lit then I would first check your thermostat. Make sure it is on heat setting and fan is on auto, turn stat up to where it should be calling for heat. If you don't get burner to light remove front cover from thermostat and see if it has a mercury switch, if it does move temperature selector up and down and see if you can see a spark in mercury switch vial. If y ou cannot see a spark remove screws that attach t-stat to base.Remove carefully and disconnect wires that go to r and w terminals on stat base. Temporarily connect these two wires together. This should make burner light if you have power to thermostat. If burner does light disconnect wires and replace thermostat. Also if you have a volt meter check across these two wires and see if you have power there. Should be around 24 volts a.c. If your thermostat has a fan on setting try that. If fan runs you know you have power to furnace The gas valve needs 24 volts to operate and inside the electric control box in furnace there is a transformer to step down 110-120 supply voltage to 24 volts. If transformer is working you should be able to hear a low buzz or humming sound. You can also check across gas valve terminals when t-stat is set for heat, you should read about 24 volts. If you have 24 volts to gas valve and it is not opening then you need to replace gas valve. The main purpose of the limit switches is to turn blower on when temperature in heat exchanger reaches fan on temp,shut off blower after burner shuts off and heat in heat exchanger reaches fan off temperature, and limit if temperature exceedes set point without blower coming on. I hope this helps you. Thanks

I would guess that the fan off setting on your limit is set a little to high. If you have the manual you can see what it says about changing the running time for the fan after the burner has shut off look on the control board and you should see two switches,one to set the time for burners to fire before main blower starts and one to set time for fan to run after burners shut off. To help with the problem you are describing set fan run time up so fan wii run longer. Hope this helps. Thaks.

Check the board for a set of dip switches. Check against the old board for switch positioning. These control fan on/off times. Ensure you turn power off before changing switch positions. If no dip switches,??

Hi, Yes, you have the answer to you're problem. Now, I don't no if you have just a high limit, or a combination Limit control? I will go with the combination fan control as when they go bad, they stick in the closed position and they have normally open contacts. When the heat exchanger starts to heat on a call for heat, there is a dial on the fan control with temp. settings on it , and it will start to rotate as the heat gets higher. When it reaches its set fan on temp, it with start the fan.We no the fan works so the blower is good, so it shuts the burners down on you're high limit temp. which is factory set to about 250*F. When you turn The t-stat from auto to on in the fan side, that solves the problem temp, only. You will need to R & R the Fan control. If you need some direction on doing this please let me know and if it is a Honeywell auto/on type that is rectangular in looks, and if you remove the cover you will see the temp. dial with arrows on it. Thank you.
Best of Luck, and Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

the reason he told you not to cycle the power is because some where there is a flashing light that he can decode and tell him where to start looking for the problem. Call him next it happens and don't touch the power or the stat until he gets to see the unit.

I am sorry to inform you but this is the 2nd unit you have in that outlet and are having problems, I think you only have 110 volts at the unit...1/2 of the voltage needed. On a 220 volt line there are 2 lines of 110 volts and they BOTH must be present for all the features to work. With only 110 volt, the lights might come on and that would also explain why, when you turn on a burner the clock flashes. You are completing a circuit. Check your home wiring and repair it. Your range will function properly once your resolve the problem with your home supply line to the range.

Good Luck, Eric

the fan comes on only after the burner fires. so no stat voltage is expected. it is not powering the blower, the elec board is. only after burner lights will fan be energized due to heat build up. usually on older weatherking there is a heat sensor on the bulhead above the burners. it is stuck sounds like to me. try a sharp rap on the right side about four feet up the side and a foot back . if fan stops you know the switch was stuck . probably needs a new fan switch.