How do you know if your oven is hard wired in or plugged in if can't see it?

Posted this several years ago. It's possible the oven sensor has gone bad or lost connection. Try cutting out the little plastic electric plug that connects the sensor to the oven wiring. Then hard wire it together with two small wire nuts.
If that doesn't work, you will need a new sensor, as we did. But when we installed it, we used the little plastic electric plug to connect it. Two days later it started acting up again.
The instructions said to hard wire it with two small wire nuts, but since it came with a plug it made sense to use it. Finally, even though it didn't make sense, I cut out the plastic plug and hard wired it. It's been about 3 years now and we've had no further problems.
THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THAT LITTLE PLASTIC ELECTRIC PLUG. YOU MUST NOT USE IT. HARD WIRE IT.

Posted this several years ago. Don't know if it's the same oven. It's possible the oven sensor has gone bad or lost connection. Try cutting out the little plastic electric plug that connects the sensor to the oven wiring. Then hard wire it together with two small wire nuts.
If that doesn't work, you will need a new sensor, as we did. But when we installed it, we used the little plastic electric plug to connect it. Two days later it started acting up again.
The instructions said to hard wire it with two small wire nuts, but since it came with a plug it made sense to use it. Finally, even though it didn't make sense, I cut out the plastic plug and hard wired it. It's been about 3 years now and we've had no further problems.
THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THAT LITTLE PLASTIC ELECTRIC PLUG. YOU MUST NOT USE IT. HARD WIRE IT.

I could be wrong, but from your limited description I am assuming that you cut the cord and wired direct to the box. You may not have 240 volts at the box and are trying to connect it to 120 volts. A dark green wire is the safety ground. The white is neutral and two colored wires are supply lines with 120 volts ( average) EACH. Better get someone in there that knows electricity and how to make proper connections to the proper voltage. Otherwise you are asking for major trouble.

The following website installation and user manual indicates a current value of 13-15 Amperes. You may have upgrade the wiring and the plug.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/935752/Logik-Lbfanw10.html?page=11#manual Specification Model LBFANX10
Rated Voltage 230 - 240 V
Rated Frequency 50 Hz
Power 3200 - 3500 W
Current 13 - 15 A
Top Element 1200 W
Bottom Element 1100 W

its more than likely a burnt wire ,, turn off the breaker its hard wired into, ( you might want to set up a plug system for it at this time if that's possible, ) open the back where the plug goes into the unit, and check for power, if you can use a multimeter that's cool, If your unsure as to how to check it, you might want to call a service repair

A "hard wired" oven means the 10 gauge (3 conductor with ground) cable from the main service panel (breaker box) is connected directly to terminals on the oven. A "plug in" oven means there is a wall outlet into which plugs a cable connected to the oven terminals. The plug on the cable would be very similar if not identical to the plug on the cable used on a clothes dryer.

Charlie

If it is a single oven, then it can be plugged directly into a normal 13 amp socket.
If it is a double oven, then it will have to be hard wired, protected by a minimum 40 amp fused circuit.

if i bought a single oven with a three wire cable coming out the back with no plug, which i know is meant to be hard wired, are you saying i could fit a plug to this and plug it into a normal 13amp socket, reason i ask i ahve an oven which has packed in and it plugs into the wall at the back, if i fitted a plug onto the cable from a single oven below 3kw then are you saying i can do this?

You can connect it either way. However I would recommend either split-bolt connectors or ring lugs w/ bolt and nuts rather than wire nuts, if you choose to hard wire it.