Need to be able to sound a fire alarm using the intercom

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to clock Radios from Misc.

The 40-220 is the closest one I can find.

GIGAWARE 40-220 QUICK MANUAL Pdf Download

ManualsLib https://www.manualslib.com > ... > Clock Radio

View and Download Gigaware 40-220 quick manual online. Alarm Clock Radio with Dock for iPod. 40-220 clock radio pdf manual download.

There are others, but not your model. They all work to a theme though.

https://www.google.com/search?q=gigaware+40-219+alarm+clock+manual

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Your cat stepped on a DSS key. <gr>


HEY!! I've seen this phenomenon before twice.

If you don't mind changing batteries every 6-12 months during the year then you can pick up these smoke alarms from any hardware or even discount store. The also come in blister packs (2 to 6 or more for value packs) Most will screw mount to attach to wall. You can also use self stick foam tape to 'stick it' anywhere. Try to put them in a high spot on wall or ceiling depending on the surface (crumbly textured surface won't stick well. It will have to be mounted with a screw) The higher locations will give you quicker response time but It's harder to get at without a step ladder. Lower units have slower response time as the smoke has to collect and lower to the point where the alarm is.
*** Note; you will need to check your fire code requirements for placement of alarms. (though once this minimal requirement is met there is no reason you can't add more in other locations for added coverage; like a large walk in closet, baby's room, laundry room, etc.)
* Getting back to your question, I'm guessing you have the updated required powered alarms or need to have a "Powered" fire alarm. The newer homes (well last 20 years is new to me) have low voltage power lines running from room to room where the alarms are placed. If you required to install this type of system then depending on the ceiling access (crawl space, lowered ceiling, etc.) and the need to run the wires "hidden" behind wall and ceiling will increase the installation time and labor costs. Electrician or authorized fire alarm technician will be needed. They should check your fire alarm requirements for you local, indicate locations for alarms, run wires, install and test. Check with several companies in your area and get several quotes. Check with Better Business Bureau for rating or complaints.
* With Smart ware being all the rage. It may be possible to use these "smart devices" to alert you to other situations besides just fire hazards. Break in, baby monitor, door ringer monitor, water (flooding), Carbon Monoxide, etc. But the alarm guy should be able to give you more options. Though I's still up to you how much you want to spend.
* Final; You check what the fire codes require. If they called you first then suspect a scam or a sales pitch to get you to buy something you don't require. You can always go with the 'stick on' alarms if that is allowed for your area. Call the fire Dept in your area. Those are the 'good guys' that want to keep you safe.
Aloha, ukeboy57

types of fire alarm systems:
http://www.itsfire.co.uk/alarm-types.htm

I do not know of any reported problems specific to the Kidde CO/smoke alarm, but I spent a significant part of my career servicing toxic gas sensors and can give you some general advice:

1- Most important: treat an alarm as a REAL alarm and DO NOT suspect that your alarm is a "false alarm". My experience has been that most "false alarms" ARE REAL and the source needs to be identified! With Carbon Monoxide detectors, it is usually a blocked vent for a gas fired appliance- a hot water heater, furnace, or oven. Call your fire department or a service professional to make sure that there is no carbon monoxide. They have portable detectors that will be able to double check your alarm.

My advice to you at this moment is to act as if you have a real alarm condition and do not place you or others in a life threatening situation. Ventilate the room/ apartment/house IMMEDIATELY!

I will post more after I send this because you may be in a life threatening situation!

The fire alarm (usually an open contact, held closed during healthy operation) MUST go in series with the supply to the switch. This is normally incoming to a terminal which is linked between the hand and auto positions. If this is a full control panel, the fire alarm connection SHOULD be used to drop out the entire control circuit. Can you supply wiring diagram?

Some freezer models feature a temperature
monitor that provides an audible
alarm. The temperature monitor alarm is
located near the temperature control

The alarm sounds if the temperature in
the freezer rises 10° F (12° C) or more
above normal for selected setting. Alarm
may sound if temperature control dial is
turned to a much colder setting or if a
large amount of unfrozen food is added at
one time. Alarm is controlled by a three
position switch



• 0 = OFF prevents alarm from sounding
when freezer is warm, such as during
initial start-up or defrosting.
• ✓ = TEST sounds alarm regardless of
temperature. Alarm system should be
tested at least once a month.
• 1 = ON is proper setting for normal
freezer use. Return switch to 1 after
defrosting.

Here are the instructions to view, change alarm time and turn off alarm:

From normal time display:
Press MODE once to display stop watch.
Press MODE again to change alarm time.
Press MODE again to change time.

From normal time display:
Press RESET once to display current alarm time.
Press and hold RESET then press START to turn on and off alarm (watch for alarm symbol on top left)
Press and hold RESET then press MODE to turn on daily alarm vs one time (watch day marker lines at the bottom)
Hope this helps.

Mine acts the same way. I found that it doesn't alarm unless you trigger the alarm. Be sure to check that the alarm fires correctly as mine didn't and they covered this under warranty.