My outfeed table does not run level with infeed table . How do i adjust?

I don't know which planer you have, but if all the planing happens on the top side of your stock then all surfaces underneath should be at the same level.
If you have a fancy planer that cuts on the bottom side, then the outfeed table should align with the cutters and the infeed table would be adjusted below that by the cut thickness (like a jointer

did you try ---

http://manuals.ryobitools.com/documents/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&category_id=42&query=

Hello,
Adjusting a jointer to relieve snipe can be trickey but here are a few procedures that will help.

-The two tables on the jointer are adjustable, the front (infeed) is what you adjust for cut depth.
- The back (outfeed) needs to be the exact hieght as your knives

The outfeed needs to be adjusted first
-unplug jointer
-using a straight edge on the outfeed table adjust it so that when you turn the head (counter clockwise) the knives just touch the staight edge (NOTE** all the knives should touch the straight edge the same, if not your knives are not set correctly) This is your most important adjustment, if the outfeed is to high or to low it will cause inconsistant jointing.
-Now that the outfeed is trued up to the head you can adjust the infeed table, using the straight edge align it so that it is perfectly lined up with the outfeed table (not touching the kinives) Your jointer is now at ZERO

You can now adjust the infeed for depth of cut, Start by lowering the infeed a very small amount (1/16 of a inch to start)

The biggest problem I have seen is that people try to cut to much at one time, it will work alot better if you take several small cuts instead of one deep cut.

Also- getting the knives set perfectly in the head is a key to success, if this is not happening you WILL have jointing problems. ALSO if the knives are not sharp they will pull the material down causing snipe.

I really hope this helps and if you need a visual aid try looking it up on you tube.

I have used my jointer for numerous different projects, Here is a cool one for tapered table legs.
Take a piece of square stock (like 2x2 ) about 3 feet long, make a mark about 2 foot up and wrap a piece of tape around it at the mark.
now make a mark (we will call it a stop mark) on the fence of the jointer by the head.
with a pencil and number the edges on the 2x2 (above the tape so you dont joint them off)

turn on jointer and run side 1 until your tape is at the fence mark, carefully lift 2x2 and do the same to the 2 side.
only joint the #1 & #2 sides, run several more times and you will have a perfect tapered leg.

SHOP DOG

The majority of jointers even cheap chinese imports have 3" or 4" hand cranks for both infeed and outfeed adjustments. The gibs can usually be adjusted when needed even on cheap jointer planers.
The rigid website has a support page and product parts and manual download.
If the download doesnt work call them and insist that they e-mail or mail a paper copy.
Most jointer planers are somewhat similiar in design and appearance.
Some power tool instruction manuals from competitors may have more complete step by step instructions.

I usually adjust the knives slightly above the outfeed table. I use an aluminum straight edge & adjust them using a sheet of printer paper on the outfeed table so that they are about the thickness of the paper above the table. I place the paper on the outfeed table put the straightedge on the paper & rotate & adjust each knife so they just slightly hit the straightedge when I rotate the cutterhead by hand.

Needless to say the jointer needs to be unplugged while doing this.

Instruction manual is here.

Exploded diagram is here.

I'm pretty sure you're saying your planer tables are not coplanar.

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/jointer-setup/ is worth watching. Despite his comments about a level, a decent level works fine for making sure your tables are flat and coplanar on smaller units like this.

On more expensive planers there are gibs that can be adjusted to fix this issue. Your part list doesn't list any gibs, so it looks like you will have to loosen the screws holding the infeed or outfeed table in place and shim it. You can use a metal feeler gauge to figure out how much need to shim it.

Also, if you're still in warranty, Delta may be able to replace your unit. If you're going down this route, I'd recommend you take a level and your unit into a service center so you can show them the problem.

Be aware that the replacement "could" be worse than the original. Be sure to check it. I recently waited 6 weeks for a replacement fence for my jointer (mine developed a twist) and the new one had a 3/8" bow in that was ridiculous.

Unfortunately the Shopmaster line wasn't Delta's greatest and there have been a lot of problems with them. It might be worth keeping an eye on craigslist in your area, as decent prices can be had on jointers fairly regularly.

Please vote if this answer was useful.

I'm not familiar with hobby type machines like craftsman, but good shop jointers have levers or hand wheels for the infeed and out,either on the sides or the front. I hope your outfeed is the higher one. When jointing, the amount of stock material removed should be compensated by the hight of the outfeed table, otherwise you will produce a taper near the end of the board your jointing. Check and see if raising or lowering the knives moves the outfeed if you still can't find separate adjusters.

This is common on joiners due to moving of the machine by lifting it around by lifting it by the end of the infeed and outfeed tables. It causes the tables to be moved out of alignment due to the weight of the machine, it must be moved by the base or you always have this problem reoccur. Raise the infeed table so that a 6' to 8' straight edge will clear the cutter blades. At most automotive stores or machinery supply stores you can purchase shim kits (.0001" to .0015") you won't need much, the best because they are a hardened metal or stainless, you can use foil or hard paper in a pinch but it won't last. The outfeed table is only ment to adjust for the cutter height only. Under the out feed table are the wedge slides, loosen them as needed (not to loose) untill you can lift the table enough to slid in the needed shim, start with a .0005" shim. Put same size shim on both sides unless the table is out of level with the infeed table. The shim needs to only go in about an inch, not the entire lenght of the slide, this will raise the end of the table to bring it up. Retighten the wedge slides, pretty tight but not torqued. Check it with the straight edge to see how you did. You probably will have to repeat the process with other thickness shims till you get it right, unless you get lucky the first time. It took me two or three trys. The proof is when you get a straight edge on your wood. Have Fun!

Well, the infeed table is supposed to be lower than the outfeed table. This is how the jointer actually removes material to flatten a face or board edge. What is important is that the the outfeed table is level with the top of the cutterhead blades, so as you push material through the cutterhead, the outfeed table fully supports the workpiece.

The infeed table is supposed to be adjustable up and down to remove different amounts of material.

If both infeed and outfeed tables were aligned, no material would be cut (assuming the outfeed was aligned with top of the blades).

a jointer includes infeed and outfeed tables. A set of rotating blades is positioned between these two blades. A fence is set on one side of the jointer to serve as a guide. The infeed table and outfeed table are adjusted so that they are parallel, but the infeed table is slightly lower thereby exposing a small amount of the cutting blades. The woodworker then presses the lumber against the infeed table and pushes it onto the outfeed table; the rapidly spinning blades remove a small amount of material. If the wood is particularly warped, several passes on the jointer may be required.