Honeywell zoning system

If the board isn’t shorted out then a damper or tstat is. I would first take a pic of all the wiring, turn power off and remove all damper wires. Turn power on and see if you get any lights. If yes then you can eliminate one damper at a time to find problem. If no lights, turn power off, remove remaining wires other than the transformer wire that provides power to board and then power on. If you get lights then you likely have a tstat issue. If still no lights you have a bad zone panel.

Purge is typically saying that a call for cooling has ended. Ducts are being purged of any remaining cool air. Tells me you are losing a cooling call possibly because of a pressure switch in condenser. Many things can cause a zone panel to act up but it’s my experience that damper motors fail frequently. If your dampers are “power closed” dampers, meaning they require voltage to close and would remain open with no power, you could simply unhook the 3 dampers from the zone panel for a night, obviously losing individual control, and see if the system acts up. If no issues you would then know there is a problem with a damper. Eliminate from there to pinpoint which damper it is. But, check outside first. Is fan running, is larger copper cold once running, is it cooling inside well etc. Zone systems aren’t really a diy, many techs don’t even know where to start. Good Luck.

Willing to bet a damper is shorted. Remove the damper wires, just the damper wires, and run a cooling cycle. If it works reinstall one damper at a time to eliminate.

Chances are it's a bad daamper. You can bypass any tstat by wiring red green and yellow together. Bypass the tstat, if still blinking you'll know it's the damper. You can then swap that damper to another zone and be sure the new zone then starts flashing.

Blinking amber light indicates a shorted or tripped damper motor circuit. I would check to see if there's power to the damper motor if there is check to see if damper is jammed and not allowing full motion of damper. If there isn't find out why and restore it. Then test zone for proper and full motion.
This link may help. http://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/97192/honeywell-truezone-hz322.html?page=2

Keep in mind you have the same terminals on the damper. 1-4-6. be sure both board and dampers are wired the same for spring open/power closed. I cant remember if that 311 sends power with a call or not( if power is being sent when light is on), but once you have double checked the damper wiring either verify with a meter that power is being sent or verify air flow. if it is then backwards simply reverse wires on board. I suspect it sends power when light is on, that is why zone 3 is lit. (there is no call for cooling on 3, therefore it is shutting the damper) YES, the damper that is not really there. Let me know, hope this helps. The damper that is trying to cool should NOT be getting any power, wire accordingly.

Be sure all zones are calling for cooling. Press the purge override and verify air flow on all zones. If one is still not working verify the board is sending voltage to that damper. A meter is a huge help but if all lights are on chances are the damper is stuck. You should be able to free it up but it will just happen again. Either replace damper motor, replace damper or if you can figure out if it is a "spring open" damper, get it open and unhook the wire to that zone. This will keep it open at all times because it can not "power close". Provided that zone CAN stay open all the time. Keep me posted!!

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Choose two colors of the thermostat wire, and connect them to the NO and COM and connect them to the zone control board leads for the zone intended. Almost all zone valves spring return open when deenergized. So ensure the zone valve is open with the system is off. At the base of zone valve there is a set screw that needs to engage the damper valve shaft in the open position with the motor in the spring release position. Most zone valve are 90 degree moment from full open to full shut. If you have a Carrier zone valve, they go full open to full shut in 45 degrees of motion. Your open stop need to be set so the valve stops in the full stop position.
To help understand the operation of a zone system, say you have 2 zone system and zone 1 thermostat initiates a heat or cool demand. Zone 2 valves energizes and shuts and zone 1 stays open and allow air to heat/ cool zone 1. If zone 2 thermostat simultaniously initiates the same heat/cool demand, the zone 2 valve opens and both zone heat/cool. When either thermostat is satisfied the opposite zone valve closes and when both thermostat are satisfied both zone valves open.
Hope this helps you understand zone operation. The same works for higher multizone systems.

Zoned forced air systems that use multiple thermostats that can start a single heating and cooling unit from each stat and condition just that space that called it, are conditioned by the auto damper you are referring to. These dampers are normally spring closed and driven open using a small 24 volt motor (Called an Actuator or Operator) connected to the stat that operates the damper motor with a relay. Disconnect the damper crank arm and linkage between the damper and its motor and see if the damper rotates closed. See if the damper will move freely. Power and remove power from the motor to see if it works. Doing these things will probably find the problem. Good Luck. Roger

there is a "zone a lone" switch on the upper right side of the panel. Make sure it is in the "occupied" position. I believe that is up. If that doesn't work reply back.