The monitor worked fine last night, but this morning it won't start up. The power button flashes blue, none of the other buttons do anything. Unplugging the monitor stops the flashing, but only until it's plugged back in. Disconnecting the DVI input doesn't make any discernible difference.
Hi Samuel.
this is all i could find from the internet.
You can try a power reset to see if that helps. To do a power reset, unplug the power cable and press and hold the power key for 10 seconds. Then, release the power key and plug the monitor in and attempt to use it. If you are still unable to get a proper display, We would suggest contacting technical support to inquire about warranty repair options. Many of our monitors carry a 3 year warranty, so there is a chance you may still have warranty left.
Acer Service and Support
you could also try this link out.
Acer 22 X223w LCD Monitor will not start up Google Search
SOURCE: Acer AL2002W Monitor
For DVI you need to probably upgrade your cheap graphics card, something not that expensive would be a ATI Radeon HD2400 Pro, it'll do. May want to check what pwer supply maybe required on your PC.
SOURCE: My Monitor worked great for the last year or so.
More likely to be bad caps in the power suppl;y, see example here: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
SOURCE: Acer 1916 monitor..Power button flashing but won't turn on
Look for bad caps in the power supply first, post back what you see inside so we can guide you furhter, see example of failed monitors due to bad caps, lamps: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
SOURCE: Power button light flashes (blue flashing light)
You may have problem in the power supply section, that wil be the first place to check. Look for caps with bulging/leaking tops first.
Please see my photo albums so you will know what to look for.
http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
http://www.badcaps.net
SOURCE: Acer monitor won't stay on
That looks like an inverter problem. If the monitor is still under warranty, contact the manufacturer (3 years for both parts and labor if purchased new). Otherwise, open up the back of the monitor and remove the shielding. Look for scorch marks, soot or leaking or bulging capacitors (look like cylinders on tripods). You could just replace the capacitors and the resistor that acted as a fuse. However, for $50-150, depending on the inverter, you can replace the entire part (unplug the wires for the backlight(s) and other connections and swap them).
You can also check the inverter by looking for the high frequency EM put out by the unit. Some high end multimeters will measure this (as will an oscilliscope). Hold the multimeter probes a fraction of an inch apart about an inch above the board (with the multimeter set to read frequency). If the inverter is good (and the frequency is reasonably close to the multimeter's range) you will see either a 1 or a value (kHz). If the inverter is bad or too far out of range, you will see a result near zero.
Once you have the monitor open, record the part number on the board with the damage, including the REV number if any. Search that part online (lcdparts.net and other sites have parts for monitors). Get the correct unit if possible. Some sites sell universal inverters and those can be used. However, you may find the controls reversed (up to lower brightness).
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells
(a backlight issue would have resulted in a slow fading of the image or the screen looking red/pink.)
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