Question about Nor-Lake Refrigerators

1 Answer

Maytag MFI2568AES refrigerator was left open a couple hours, now it's not cooling at all.

REFRIGERATOR BACKGROUND: This unit is about 6 years old as of Jan 2012. In 2008 I replaced the commonly faulty power supply filters (C12 and C13) capacitors on the HV board on the back on the fridge. This fixed the strange display and crazy ice door flapping open/shut. It was an EZ fix and has been working fine ever since. Now, onto my newest problem with this $2400 unreliable refrigerator..... WHAT HAPPENED: The other day the refrigerator door was left open a couple inches...but only for about 2 hours total. The temperature alarm was beeping which was how I found out that someone left it open. I closed it the door. A couple hours later I notice the the temps in the fridge and freezer were rising. What's going on? WHAT I'VE LOOKED INTO THUS FAR: *** There was NO ice build-up on the evaporator in the freezer compartment, I removed the cover inside the bottom freezer to confirm this. The circulation fan IS running like normal. ***The compressor IS running, I can feel it humming away like normal. though it was really hot, just warm to the touch. When I unplugged the power to the fridge and plugged it back in, the compressor cooling fan turned on right away and there was a short delay then the compressor started up... like normal operation. Per the supplied service manual located underneath the fridge, I used the display panel and entered "SERVICE TEST MODE" and when to menu 102 and was able to turn the compressor OFF and ON. I went ahead and checked all the other service tests to find anything else not working. No obvious problems were found. ***There is no dust or blockage on the condensor coils underneath the fridge. ***I have cleared out the contents of the fridge/freezer, unplugged the power and left all the doors open for 24 hours as some people have suggested. Are they suggesting I do this to melt off any kind of ice build-up somewhere? The unit was only left open for about 2 hours which a fairly shot time to build up a lot ice to block airflow to something. Since there was no ice on the freezer's evaporator I doubted them but tried it anyway. Surprise, it still doesn't work! WHAT DO I NEED TO DO NOW? ........ Luckily it's winter and I moved all the food into the garage for the time being. Please help with a fix for this problem. Thanks in advance!

Posted by on


1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points


    An expert that got 20 achievements.


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master
  • 2,006 Answers

Unfortunately, this model has had quite a few problems, because it is such a complicated refrigerator. Many times a shorted component that is connected to the Iceland main control board will affect completely unrelated items making it easy to chase your tail for hours. I would suspect the freezer thermostor - only because we have had to replace it many times in the past.
Suggest you go to the and copy the electrical diagram and then verify electrical reading on the main PCB, to try to isolate the problem.

Posted on Jan 23, 2012

  • 6 more comments 
  • Sully Jan 23, 2012

    There are two Thermistors on this unit, one in the freezer and one in the fridge. They monitor each chamber's temps which determine when the compressor should turn on and when the cold air should be sucked from the freezer to the fridge. The readings (in Fahrenheit) of the thermistors are displayed on the panel. I verified their readings by placing a plain mercury thermometer next to each thermistor for 30 minutes each to verify the ambient temps in each chamber. They are both accurate.

  • ImJustAvg Jan 24, 2012

    Yes, and they both hook to the control board. What makes this refrigerator so hard to troubleshoot is that the Iceland main control board doesn't use fault isolation, so a shorted component can and will effect the complete operation of the refrigerator.

  • Sully Jan 24, 2012

    Is there any way to test these Thermistors out of circuit...either with a simple resistance/impedance test or decade box to simulate a "good" thermistor reading?

    I would hate to have to "shotgun" troubleshoot and throw a bunch of parts at it. It would get pretty expensive doing it this way.

  • Sully Jan 24, 2012

    ....I forgot to ask, how could leaving the fridge cracked open for a couple hours make the thermistors go bad?

    And currently all the fans, (internal circulation and condenser fan) are running and so is the compressor.... wouldn't this be all that it required to make the evaporator coils go cold?

  • ImJustAvg Jan 25, 2012

    When I said the theristor could be a problem, that was based on a clients similar problem, BUT that doesn't mean it is the same problem in yours. What I was referring to is the control board NOT using fault isolation technology that makes it hard to tell what is happening with it.
    Yes, you can disconnect components one at a time to check them. Using an ohm meter to check the components should show you what is going on. If it is what I suspect, you are looking for a short (0 ohms) and not an open.
    Leaving the door open SHOULDN'T cause anything to go bad, UNLESS it was already weak.
    Yes, if your compressor is running, the evaporator should be getting cold. Unless you have a leak somewhere in the system and there is no coolant to be pumped up to it. Is your compressor extremely hot?

  • Sully Jan 26, 2012

    Thanks for your help into this issue "ImJustAvg".

    So far I've ruled out anything electrical causing the problem...(electrical engineer background). I've verified as much as I could without having to buy parts. I isolated everything electronic and got the fridge down to just the basics.... or whatever is needs to make the evaporator cold. The only electricity I need is the power to run the condenser fan and the compressor. Everything else at this point was just unneeded gadgetry that inhibits troubleshooting. I went ahead and started checking around the mechanical and refrigerant system.

    Studying the way the lines are routed I noticed a stupid design flaw...or maybe it was intentional, who knows. I noticed that one the copper freon lines was routed across the water drip pan. What's more stupid is that the line was routed in such a way that almost 1.5 feet of the tubing would be SITTING in water! The 18" section of copper pipe is all corroded so first thing came to mind is a high probability of a leak. I plugged in the power to the fridge, the compressor came on and I listened for a hiss...heard nothing. I ran my fingers along the pipe to try and feel air. Then right near the 45 degree bend I heard a hiss and felt a small stream of air....THAT WAS THE LEAK. I verified this by spraying a couple squirts of water so I can see the leak from the water shooting off. I took pics so some of you can see what 'm talking about.

    The question is WHY is piping routed this way?... maybe for a negligible cooling effect? IMO it's totally not worth it.

    I'm going to replace this section of corroded piping and route it OUT of the drip pan. Then I will have a friend who is a certified refrigeration guy come and evacuate the system and recharge the R134a it for me. Hopefully everything will be in working order afterwards.

  • Sully Jan 26, 2012

    I think what I'm also going to do while the system is to remove the crimp on the factory charging line and install and sweat on a service port with schrader valve and replace the receiver /dryer while I'm at it.. and maybe put a service port on the high side also. At least this way I can quickly monitor the pressures if I ever have a problem again. I'm in no position to go and dump another $2300 bucks on another fridge like this and if I can fix this all for under $100 with my own labor and friends in the industry, I'll keep this fridge for as long as possible. My next one WON'T be a late model Maytag that's for sure.

  • ImJustAvg Jan 26, 2012

    Those all sound like good things to do if you are keeping the refrigerator for an extended time. When I asked that question about the routing, another technician told me that the only reason that he could so, was to hold the drip pan in place. I doubt if that is the reason the manufacter designed it that way.
    While Maytag is a reasonably good manufacturer of refrigerators, their top of the line look fancy and has all the bells and whisles on them, they are a pain to work on and used some components that are more likely to fail than they should be. They need to use more fault isolation in their high end units, which would make them more reliable.
    I have a 35 year old Whirlpool that has never given me any trouble (as long as I remember to clean the condenser grill) that was the highest model sold that year. It has been to three foreign countries and Hurricane Andrew and still works great. On the other hand, I have a top of the line Kenmore (Maytag manufactured) that I have have had several problems with. And have I have had to rework a lot of the electronics in it, to keep it going.



1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers


Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

Here's a link to this great service

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

I bought a used Maytag refrigerator, model 2254HEW. For the first month or so,it cooled perfectly, now it is taking a couple days to cool soft drinks and then not real cold. The unit is in the garage and...


Jul 05, 2012 | Maytag Refrigerators

1 Answer

Not cooling at all. We moved from AZ to SC it was working fine. Compresser and fan are running, cleaned it and still nothing it's been plugged in for 40+ hours and seems hotter now? Is there a reset...

Here is a tip that I wrote on moving refrigerators...if you did not do it thisway then you may well have ruined a perfectly good refrigerator.

Moving a Refrigerator What is thebest way

If you already have moved it wrong, you can sometimes get it working byplugging it in and unplugging it a number of times with an hour or so inbetween.


Aug 27, 2011 | Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom...

1 Answer

Maytag refrigerator stainless steel french door bottom freezer...lights flashing and ice maker opening and closing/making sound

Im thinking maybe a power surge was felt by the refrigerator.

Try unplugging from wall for a couple minutes and then plugging it in again.

Hope this resets it...

Jul 23, 2011 | Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom...

1 Answer

My Maytag MF12568AES Refrigerator is not cooling. May be I need to reset the computer.

This happens to my Maytag like clockwork every summer. The freezer works fine but the refrigerator stops cooling. The first time this happened, it was the fault of the small plastic DC fan that sends cooling from the freezer compartment to the refrigerator section. A technician replaced the DC plastic with an AC metal fan he guaranteed would last the life of the refrigerator. He blamed govt energy standards as the reason Maytag uses the cheap DC plastic fan in the first place. Problem solved. One year later, same issue with no cooling in the refrigerator, freezer fine. Again today, nearly one year to the day! SOLUTION? Trip the circuit breaker or unplug the refrigerator for a minimum of 5 minutes. A reboot now fixes the problem every time. Who would have thought you'd ever have to REBOOT your refrigerator?

Jun 15, 2010 | Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom...

1 Answer

Maytag Plus side by side refrigerator stops cooling. I unplugged it for 24 hours. When I plugg it back in, it works fine for about 2-3 months. Then it stops again and works fine after being unplugged for...

Take food out of the freezer, take out the racks, take off the back panel on the bottom/back ( probably 4-6 screws).. You will see a fan. If that fan has ice around it, then take it all off, chip it, hair dryer, what ever you want. Unplugging it for 24 hours is not enough for all of the ice to melt so it is probably taking a couple months to build back up. Generally this happens in a high humidity time of the year. It will probably happen again, do not freet. Just clean it again. I know one customer that had it happen two years in a row and that was about four years ago. He has had the unit (Maytag Plus side by side refrigerator) about 10 years and is just fine with it. Little inconvience, but sometimes that is the breaks in life. Good luck.... f067b6b.gif

Nov 30, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer


After they replaced the part did they defrost the unit. there is probably ice build up on the coil behind the service panel in the freezer compartment. If the defrost control was the part replaced you can probably push the refrigerator side light switch in and out 5-6 times and force a defrost. if the unit goes into defrost then all the components are fine and you just need to manually defrost the coil either by off loading all food and leaving the unit off for 4-6 hours with doors open. of offloading freezer side remove rear access cover in freezer exosing evaporator coils and use a hairdryer to defrost the ice accumulation. good luck Peyton

Mar 06, 2009 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom

perhaps there is ice holding it in because that tab is all that holds it.

Sep 29, 2007 | Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Refrigerators Logo

Related Topics:

254 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Nor-Lake Refrigerators Experts

John Tripp
John Tripp

Level 3 Expert

4656 Answers


Level 3 Expert

85206 Answers

Are you a Nor-Lake Refrigerator Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides