This is a follow up question to my kenmore dryer not starting. Model 11067087600. I took out thermal fuse and it tests ok, so I put it back in. I plug dryer in and check lint screen lite flashes. If I adjust lint screen the lite goes out but still doesn't start. F40 flashes after start attempt. I have vacumned my entire laundry room and whole inside of machine so I am sure there's no clog. I hear a soft click coming from control panel 2 sec after I press start- then the failure code. I am pretty handy and plan on fixing this myself, so I am looking for the next step. Thanks md

Hi RD Eden
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or inside of the dryer venting system,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if you do not read continuity you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
Try to run the dryer, if it runs and heats up then replace the thermal fuse/thermistor/thermostat.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
But do not trust the ohm meter all the time, because sometimes it will give a false positive that the fuse is ok when in reality it is faulty.
DO THE FOLLOWING TEST:
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check the fuse/thermostat,thermistor for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
This test of the thermal fuses,thermistor,thermostat, will show if the thermal fuse,thermostat,thermister is really faulty or not.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc. If you have to replace your blower wheel it will remove clockwise as looking at the blower wheel. You will have to hold the belt end of the motor with a vise grip pliers or maybe the shaft of the motor has a notch cut on it for a wrench to fit.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
If you do not have a volt/ohm meter then:
DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me
Bud

i had this same problem it sounds like a thermal fuse its usualy a small device white mabe with 2 wires connected to it on the back of your dryer there might be a cover plate but you shouldn't have to tear into your dryer, you can also check em with an Ohms tester,to see if the thermal fuse is working properly

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

When the Thermal fuse of the dryer goes bad it wont turn on or will make clicking noise as it is doing right now. You can check the thermal fuse for continuity, if it is open then the thermal fuse needs replacement however, if the fuse tests continuity then check the control board (if that is bad then it needs replacement). Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

I would recommend you begin by checking the THERMAL FUSE. The fuse is located on the air blower assembly and is a small plastic looking component with two wires attached. Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer before servicing and make sure you take any resistance readings with the component removed from the circuit. You can isolate it by simply unplugging the wires to it. A good reading will be something close to zero ohms.

The following link can give you some added advice on how to troubleshoot a dryer:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


If you do find the thermal fuse blown, it generally blows for a reason. This is usally attributed to something coming in contact with the fuse wires (like loose change from your pockets), or a dryer that has an obstructed exhaust vent. Inspect the interior cabinet and air blower fan for accumulations of dirt or lint, followed by an inspection of the dryer vent from where it leaves the back of the dryer, to where it exits your home. If the dryer exhaust vent is kinked or clogged, the dryer heating circuits will overheat to the point of failure. Failure to provide good air flow for the dryer will results in repeated component failures and can become a fire hazard.

If you have questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate around the door opening on Kenmore) and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

check the belt,it might have slid off of pulley,make sure smooth side of belt is facing up,ridges should be touching drum

does the dryer heat initially when you first turn on the dryer Or no heat at all?

the first thing i would check is tthe thermal fuse thats located on the back of the unit. test it with a multimeter and see if it has continuity, if it doesnt then replace that and your operating thermostat. the check to be sure you venting to the outside of your house is not clogged

with power disconnected
if any wire disconnected before any test, reconnect & test dryer, reconnect wires after each test
disconnect wires from start button and test, conduct when pushed, no conduct when release
if fail replace start button test dryer
disconnect wires from door switch and test, conduct when pushed, no conduct when release
if fail replace door switch test dryer
follow leads from start button to relay(relay is first device connected to start button), and make sure all wires connected at both ends. If any wires disconnected, test dryer
locate thermostats and thermal fuses on fan housing and ducts
individually disconnect wires from each and test. conduct good, no conduct fail
replace any failed thermal fuse or thermostat test dryer
if all prior test OK
replace relay, test dryer

Check the thermal fuse it in on the dryer exh duct you have to remove the back first it is white looks like a bullet you can jumper it and test the unit if you dont have a meter

The problem could be related to one of the following; Not enough power from the house, a bad or broken heating element, a bad thermal fuse, or a brake in the wiring.

Solution
Check the house voltage for 220-240
Do a continuity test on the heating element.
Do OHM reading on thermal fuse.
Check wiring to heating element.

won't heat. fuse good,breaker good,heating element test ok. How do I check the thermostate, and timer.