My Haier XQG50-11 has leak from bearing where the outer yoke connected to the central axis. How can I replace the bearing of outer yoke&

Check for something caught in the inner bowl. Check with torch if something caught between inner & outer bowl. Check main bearing, main bearing noise is usally associate with leaking water.

Have to replace the crush spacer inside case,
not just pull the yoke & do the seal

That's called your pinion seal. You can change it but when removing the driveshaft yoke, it is ESSENTIAL that you count the exact number of turns and partial turns it took to remove the nut and that you only tighten it that exact number. Make a mark on the nut and the shaft then make a corresponding mark on the outside of your socket and on the housing so you can count. You can use a large pipe wrench to hold the yoke from turning when you are removing the nut. If you have any up and down movement at the yoke before you begin, you have a deeper problem such as a failed inner or outer pinion bearing. To replace the outer isn't difficult but if the inner has failed, you will either need a professional to press it on and off the shaft and to re- set the clearances or just replace the differential.(sometimes cheaper) Always check the fluid level when doing that job.

Ok...a leak in the front diff seal could not have been caused by an axle bearing/seal replacement. However, as I stated, the fluid level should have been checked after the job was completed. Further, front (called a pinion seal) leaks do not happen all of a sudden, rather they seep fluid for quite some time before failing. (unless the outer or inner pinion bearing has failed) THAT should have been easily noticed by the tech while he was working on it.
If the differential is noisy, I would not bother having the seal replaced as noise (usually howling or grinding) indicates a gear or internal bearing problem that is very expensive to repair. If you are at that point, best to obtain a used unit, end to end, (of the proper ratio) and replace it with that.
Depending upon what kind of flange or yoke you have on the diff, the seal is replaceable and inexpensive (less than $20). but you need some mechanical ability and proper instructions to do it.If done improperly, you will destroy the gears.

there is a long bush type bearing in this tunnel just at the end were the seal fits in it can were out and let the prop shaft flap about, this in turn rips the seal to bits,,,also the yoke has a polished part on the end that go's over the spline into the end of the gear box tunnel the seal can were a groov into this part, and no amount of new seals will stop it leaking them as the new seal runs in this worn out groov, again ripping it to bits,,,test the long bush type bearing by holding the prop shaft yoke and pushing it up and to the side, if it moves about replace the bush in the end of the tunnel as well,, its a push in fit! with a big hammer!!
if the yoke has a groov in it you need a new prop as all prop shafts are balanced so you can just fit a new yoke it could throw the car up in the air when your driving it down the free way,,,,by shaking it apart
i hope this is of help to you

It will need to be pressed out.

Universal Joint: Service and Repair
Nylon Injected Ring
Universal Joint Replacement - Nylon Injected Ring
^ Tools Required
- J 9522-3 U Joint Bearing Separator
- J 9522-5 U Joint Bearing Spacer Remover
Disassembly Procedure
Notice: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always
clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut
the lip seal.
1. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.
2. Mark the propeller shaft as to which end is the transmission end and which end goes to the rear axle.
3. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1 1/8 inch) socket.
4. In order to shear the plastic retaining ring on the bearing cup, place J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out
of the yoke ear.
5. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing.
Continue to press the bearing cup out of the yoke.
6. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the yoke.
7. Mark the orientation of the slip yoke to the tube for proper reassembly.
8. Remove the cross from the yoke.
9. Remove the remaining universal joint parts from the yoke. If you are replacing the front universal joint, remove the bearing cups in the slip yoke
in the same manner.
10. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for plastic.
11. Inspect the bearing cup bores in the yoke ears for burrs or imperfections.
12. Clean the remains of the sheared plastic bearing retainers from the grooves in the yoke.
13. The sheared plastic may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place and thus prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.
Assembly Procedure
1. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.
2. Assemble 1 bearing cup part way into 1 side of the yoke.
3. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.
4. Assemble the cross into the yoke so the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.
5. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.
6. Assemble the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.
7. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.
8. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for a free unbinding movement of the
trunnions in the bearing cups.
Important: If there seems to be a hang-up or binding, stop pressing, and inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup.
9. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing retainer groove clears the inside of the yoke.
10. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.
11. Continue pressing until you can snap both retainers into place.
12. If seating the retainer is difficult, spring the yoke slightly with a firm blow from a dead blow hammer.
13. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.



Universal Joint: Service and Repair
External Snap Ring
Universal Joint Replacement - External Snap Ring
^ Tools Required
- J. 9522-3 U-Joint Bearing Separator
- J 9522-5 U-Joint Bearing Spacer Remover
Disassembly Procedure
Notice: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always
clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut
the lip seal.
1. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.
2. Mark the propeller shaft in order to show which end connects to the transmission and which end goes to the rear axle.
3. Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers.
4. If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.
5. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 inch) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 inch) socket.
6. Place J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear.
7. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing.
Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke.
8. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the yoke.
9. Mark the orientation of the slip yoke to the tube for proper reassembly.
10. Remove the cross from the yoke.
11. Remove the remaining universal joint parts from the yoke.
12. If you are replacing the front universal joint, remove the bearing cups in the slip yoke in the same manner.
13. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring.
14. Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections.
15. Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place o
prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.
Assembly Procedure
1. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.
2. Assemble 1 bearing cup part way into 1 side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.
3. Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.
4. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.
5. Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.
6. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.
7. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the
trunnions in the bearing cups.
Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup.
8. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup.
9. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.
10. Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place.
11. If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a dead blow hammer.
12. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.

Axle Shaft: Service and Repair
Axle Shaft, Constant Velocity Type
Single cardan U-joint components are not serviceable. If defective, they must be replaced as a unit. If the bearings, seals, spider, or bearing caps are
damaged or worn, replace the complete U-joint.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Clamp only the narrow forged portion of the yoke in the vise. Also, to avoid distorting the yoke, do not over tighten the vise jaws.
1. Remove axle shaft.
2. Remove the bearing cap retaining snap rings (Fig. 19).
It can be helpful to saturate the bearing caps with penetrating oil prior to removal.
3. Locate a socket where the inside diameter is larger in diameter than the bearing cap. Place the socket (receiver) against the yoke and around the
perimeter of the bearing cap to be removed.
4. Locate a socket where the outside diameter is smaller in diameter than the bearing cap. Place the socket (driver) against the opposite bearing cap.
5. Position the yoke with the sockets in a vise (Fig. 20).
6. Compress the vise jaws to force the bearing cap into the larger socket (receiver).
7. Release the vise jaws. Remove the sockets and bearing cap that was partially forced out of the yoke.
8. Repeat the above procedure for the remaining bearing cap.
9. Remove the remaining bearing cap, bearings, seals and spider from the propeller shaft yoke.
INSTALLATION
1. Pack the bearing caps 1/3 full of wheel bearing lubricant. Apply Extreme Pressure (EP), lithium-base lubricant to aid in installation.
2. Position the spider in the yoke. Insert the seals and bearings. Tap the bearing caps into the yoke bores far enough to hold the spider in position.
3. Place the socket (driver) against one bearing cap. Position the yoke with the socket wrench in a vise.
4. Compress the vise to force the bearing caps into the yoke. Force the caps enough to install the retaining clips.
5. Install the bearing cap retaining clips.
6. Install axle shaft.

yes you are right noise during spin cycle is due to faulty bearing. If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2
It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

• Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.



• The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.



• Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

• Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.



• Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.



• Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.



• Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Once you remove the rear access panel, you would see the main pulley on the rear of the outer tub. You need to remove that nut with a metric allen wrench. once the pulley is off, you can then remove the bolts holding the yoke in place. The Yoke and the bearings are available as a part assembly from haier. It is highly unlikely that you would need to replace the outer tub.

inner drum is tightened usually with a bolt thro the main pulley (sometimes a nut) but this is unlikely to be the problem. suspect you bearings have worn.