IT IS A MODEL 26422502 KENMORE WASHER HAD LOUD SQWEALING SOUND

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

If you look at the section on "Machine Base Parts" you'll see a number of springs and vibration pads.

It's possible that one or more of the springs or pads has come loose or broken while being shipped on it's side without the shipping pins installed.

In order to get to them you have to remove the cabinet.

Here is a description of how to do it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=90fdc122f6335c7c64f46f2ea1b1c887


Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load washers. It has a troubleshooting section that describes the reasons for excessive walking or vibration.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


If it's not the springs or pads, you may consider that the "Agitator Cams" in the transmission are not raising the Agitator Gear high enough (about 1/16" ) when the washer goes into spin mode.

See the description of what the Cams do in the Service Manual.

We had the same problem, excessive vibration and noise during the spin cycle.

In order to solve that problem, :

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't too bad and (For a $15 part, saved buying a $170 transmission.)

Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the following:

WHIRLPOOL PARTS SITE

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


MORE DETAILED WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

It sounds as if the problem is in the transmission itself.

(It's not as bad as it sounds.)

If you're reasonably comfortable with basic tools (socket set, pliers/vice grips etc) getting to the transmission and taking it apart isn't too difficult and much less expensive than having a repair person charge $170 for a new transmission.

In any case, see the following for how to remove the transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE TUB.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=f4b39cb9484cdf1ec5d8d486fe9692d9

The first possibility is the Agitate Cams in the transmission. (Whirlpool part # 62580 / 81) (about $12)

These are two plastic pieces that lift the agitator shaft when the washer goes into spin mode.

If they are worn they may not lift the shaft high enough to keep it out of the way when the washer goes into spin mode. See the above on how the transmission works.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace).

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (16 oz.) of 80-90 weight gear oil (available at most auto parts stores).

Remove the transmission cover 8 bolts.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams. EVEN IF THEY DON'T APPEAR BROKEN THEY MAY BE WORN ENOUGH TO CAUSE THE PROBLEM.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

While you have the transmission apart, I'd check the other cams and gears inside. There aren't that many.

As an aside, replacing the agitate cams, neutral drain assembly and oil on ours (we had basically the same problem) cost less than $30 vs $170.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If you look at the section on "Machine Base Parts" you'll see a number of springs and vibration pads.

It's possible that one or more of the springs or pads has come loose or broken.

In order to get to them you have to remove the cabinet.

Here is a description of how to do it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=90fdc122f6335c7c64f46f2ea1b1c887


Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load washers. It has a troubleshooting section that describes the reasons for excessive walking or vibration.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


If it's not the springs or pads, you may consider that the "Agitator Cams" in the transmission are not raising the Agitator Gear high enough (about 1/16" ) when the washer goes into spin mode.

See the description of what the Cams do in the Service Manual.

We had the same problem, excessive vibration and noise during the spin cycle.

In order to solve that problem, :

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't too bad and (For a $15 part, saved buying a $170 transmission.)

Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

You can remove the agitator to see if it has a nut holding the tub on, but from what you are saying the transmission bearings are worn out. Loud noise and side to side play would indicate this. If the agitator does come off you can see if it has a nut that will tighten the tub down. I have never seen one as most are all one section tub to transmission. Keep me posted on what you find.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.########) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This assume that it is a basic top load, direct drive (no belt) washer

If the washer has never been taken apart, there are a number of places that a whining noise could come from.

The first thing I'd do is to completely tear the washer down and give the tub, agitators etc. a good cleaning. After 24 years, it probably needs it.

Following is a description of how to take it apart. (It's not as difficult as it looks).

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

In order to get the agitators out, you need to remove the "Spanner Nut" and "Drive Block".

Many instructions call for a special spanner wrench to remove the nut. However,

You don't need a special spanner wrench. (About $20 retail)

I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (About $9 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and tapped the handle with a hammer to loosen it.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer (it's soft metal). Put a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up with a hammer.

Things to check are the clutch linings for wear, the Motor coupler, (Probably a good idea to replace it while you have the machine apart as these are designed to wear), and, if you don't mind being a bit messy, the plastic pieces in the transmission itself.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (16 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Following are the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manuals for their top load, direct drive washers. The first one has a good diagnostics section as well as a description of how the transmission works.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin. One side of the motor drives the pump for draining and the other side drives the transmission for agitating and spinning.

If the washer will drain but won't spin the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for top load direct drive washers, in particular the section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. You don't have to remove the spin tube.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.15942401

There are a few places to check in the washer.

1. The Clutch

2. The Brake system

3. The splines on the agitate shaft and / or agitator

4. The agitate cam and / or gear in the transmission.

Please see the following :

ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore operations and maintenance manual describing how the washer works and in particular how the neutral drain assembly works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

You'll be able to see on the Sears site, the internal construction of the transmission. The Agitate Cams and Neutral Drain assembly cogs are plastic and can wear / break over time.

When ours had a major noise / grinding problem when spinning, we tracked the problem to the agitate cams not lifting the agitate gear high enough (less than 1/16" above the gear on the agitate shaft. Replacing it cost less that $15 vs. $170 for a transmission.

If the Drive Brake, Clutch, agitator splines and agitator shaft seem OK, the problem points to the transmission.

If it appears to be the agitate cams, following is a description of how we replaced them.

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (16 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

We had the same problem with an old Kenmore top load, direct drive,neutral drain washer.

Major gear sounding grinding during spin mode. Major vibration also.

After removing the cabinet, checking motor coupling (a bit worn but intact), drive block (you don't need a spanner wrench to remove it, a 12 - 14 inch pipe wrench works great) which was OK, clutch, seemed OK, we determined that the problems were in the transmission.

Two options, 1 spend $150 plus for a transmission.
2. Open it up and see if anything seemed seriously bad.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore)

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Te problem seemed to be related to the agitator cam and cam follower not raising the agitator gear high enough (probably less than a 1/16th of an inch) above the agitator cam.

Found the right part number (Whirlpool part # 62580 / 81) which includes both the cam and follower. Bought one for about $10.50,tore the transmission apart, installed it, put washer back together and problem was solved.

NOTE. Fixing the washer takes a little mechanical ability (wrenches, socket sets, screw drivers, vice grips, short pipe wrench) and a solid desire to save some money.

the clutch sits on top of the transmission,,the basket drive sit inside the clutch ckeck the plastic cam on the basket drive thats what pushs the clutch,,,the clutch hardly ever go bad.....and what are you trying to do change the clutch for ??? onthejob

kenmore elite washer,but first if you want to try to fix it yourselt look on ebay,put make and model number and see what comes up,i got a new transmission for $70 took my time taking apart then reassemble and it was pretty easy,let me know how you do-mike