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Don't listen to that guy, he just wants to be a hero for Briggs and sell their products. Any reputable brand 30W oil is fine for a four-stroke motor where you don't mix the fuel with oil. If you have a machine that runs on mix, I suggest STIHL HP Super. It's semi-synthetic and one of the best oils on the market for two-cycle engines of ANY manufacturer. And ALWAYS use fresh, premium gas for the best running, longest-lasting engines.
Hi, When you run a small engine it will need a thinner oil. Especially if you run it in a colder climate.
Here are the basic rules when it comes to oil:
If you just bought a new mower or other piece of equipment, add oil before you start the engine. These products are shipped without oil. Even if the product is delivered to your home fully assembled, check to be sure the engine contains the right amount of oil.
Check the oil in your mower, pressure washer, portable generator or other outdoor power equipment each time you use it. Do this when the engine is cool. If the equipment has a dip stick, pull it out and wipe it off, then reinsert it all the way and pull it out again to check the oil level.
You should change the engine oil in your outdoor power equipment after 25 hours of use. If you are working under dusty, hot conditions, change the oil more frequently.
Don't overfill the crankcase when adding oil. Too much oil can damage the engine.
Briggs & Stratton offers oil specially formulated for your mower and other equipment. Our 100% synthetic oil is an all-season oil blended for all small engines. Briggs & Stratton Lawn Mower Oil is formulated for 4-cycle air-cooled engines, and 2-Cycle Ashless Oil is a premium ashless oil with gas stabilizer made for use in 2-cycle air-cooled engines.
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Is it full at present? If so, drain the oil and measure the volume.
If you are changing the oil it might a good idea to change the filter as well. Before you begin, run the engine for a few minutes to heat up and thin the oil so that it runs out easily.
1 Tablespoon Olive Oil
1 large white potato(12 ounce) peeled, and diced into 1/2 inch pieces ( 2 cups).
3 cups low sodium chicken broth(you will add your own salt later in this recipe)
3 cloves garlic thinly sliced
3 bunches (14 ounces) watercress, washed and coarsely chopped( thick ribs and stems removed and discarded).
In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, add oil and garlic, cook til sizzlingand fragrant(about 1 minute). Stir in potatoes and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook 1 minute. Add stock and 1 1/2 cups of water, bring to a boil. Turn heat down and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in watercress. Return heat to medium-high. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat again and simmer for 1 minute. Add salt and pepper to taste. This soup is typically served with lemon wedges.
Mobil 1 is really thin,if you have as oil consumption problem ,run a thicker oil,10-30 in the winter 15-40 in the summer Suspect valve seals,not a cheap fix ,but a little oil burning makes the engine last forever,run a thicker oil.
WARNING: Do not run this engine until repairs completed or you risk engine damage.
The problem is that the float and needle are stuck. You will have to remvoe and disassemble the carburetor to investigate the problem. Check the needle, float, and seat. Also check the hinge for the float. When carb done, change the oil. Watch the oil when draining, it has been thinned with gas, it is going to gush out at you. When you put fuel in the tank, monitor level for a few minutes to see if stable before you start, and it does not hurt to check the oil one last time for the presence of gas before starting.
The risk for the engine damage comes from the thinning that the gas does to the oil, which removes oil from critical surfaces in the engine, that is why you do not run it with anygas in the oil.
Yes you can clear it out. The best thing to do is:
1 - remove the spark plug
2 - put a little gas in the plug hole (about a tablespoonful or so)
3 - pull the cord slowly so the gas can mix with the oil and thin it out
4 - pull the cord fast several times to blow everything out the spark plug hole
5 - dry and reinstall the spark plug
6 - try to start the motor without any choke
7 - if it won't start go to 1 and repeat
When it does start it will probably run rough for a while and smoke a lot until it gets everything cleared out of the cylinder. After a minute or two it should run like it did before the incident. Be sure to check the oil level, you probably didn't lose much but better safe than replacing the motor.
if it is just oil level sensor not too worry, other wise it sounds like you have low oil pressure most oil pressure sensors turn on lght below about 5-7 psi. its odd to me that light took so long to go out and are you running proper wt oil 10-30 say for your climate? most of the time engines warm-up oil thins a bit and so at low engine speeds, oil light comes on when engine is warm. one other thought was that you say it was running for 5 mins before oil light went out-did it sound bad? ticking or knocking like it really did not have oil pressure? or possibly sensor/gauge problem.
Sounds like the chain oiling system is plugged or has failed. Remove the bar and chain--start the engine and see if oil oozes from the engine side port where the bar fits up to. If ok, then check the small oil passages that run from the large holes in the drive end of the bar out to the chain groove on each edge--they commonly get plugged with sawdust and dirt. If there are small thin plates located on either side of the bar at the drive end, make sure that the one with a slot which couples oil feed from the engine to the bar is installed next to the engine. When adjusting the chain, make sure you can turn it by hand when everything is tightened. Be sure to oil the chain manually before running it the first time. Run the engine at speed and hold the bar tip near some cardboard for a couple of moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Hope this helps!
Have you checked the oil? many motors have an oil pressure switch. When did you last change it? if the oil gets hot and thin, there is less oil pressure. Could also be a safety switch, vibrating loose. Switch on seat maybe?
a 95 is only obd1 so problably wont get many codes. the oil is thicker in the first ten minutes or so, after it warms up the oil thins out. short of rebuilding the engine and/or doing a head job, try some lucas oil treatment or high tach. both are very viscous and help with thin oil
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