Where is the breaker box on 1998 travleze trailer

You have a main breaker in the panel, most often 30 amps. (Possibly 50, depending on your hookup. If your cord you plug in outside has 3 prongs it's 30 and 4 prongs it's 50) then you have a 20 amp breaker for your air conditioning and a 15 amp for your microwave or outlets. As far as fuses go, usually you have a 30 or 40 for the main converter fuse(s) and then mostly all 15's in all the other slots.

On my trailer the gfci is a seperate button in the fuse panel that shuts down the 120v outlets, all the lights run off the 12v so they continue to work, does your microwave and ac work?

At yr breaker box if there is room add either a new 120v or 220 breaker and wire frm there. You need to check how much voltega and amp. Yr travel trailer needs. Plus how far away breaker box is frm trailer and get the correct size wire if needed. Make sure you have neut. And ground correct. Please doulble check. What iv offerd. For yr solution

I am no electrician, but it sounds like your box is too small for your house. Just saying. I would get an electrician to check the size or call somewhere like Lowe's or Home Depot and ask someone in the electrical dept.

More likely power went off line and when came back tripped the breaker......

You have too small a cord on it if it's heating up and then popping your breaker. The a/c has am amp rating on it's data tag, read it and then read the amp capacity of your breaker and the cord your using. If the a/c draws more than 80% of the rated amps for the cord and breaker then you need to find another way to power it up with a bigger cord and a bigger outlet. DO NOT just install a bigger breaker, it is sized for the wiring in your home and a bigger amp draw on that wiring could burn your house down.

Check to make sure that a circuit breaker hasn't been tripped in your breaker box. If that's not the case, you can pull the microwave out and check the back for a fuse. Generally fuse access is located next to where the power cord enters the device.

Use this as a guide and a 12 volt test light, or multimeter to see if power at proper terminal from truck. If power there, then connection at trailer plug, or wiring from there to tail lights on trailer is faulty.

There are a few fuses for the trailer tow adapter.

1st, is theodd location on the 97-98, engine mini fuse panel has a 20 A fuse forthe stop / turn lamps. Have seen it covered in tape from the factory onsome 97-98 MY trucks.
This is on page 142 in the owners 1997 manual, all the revisions for the 1998 owners manual I have seen do not include this fuse box for some reason.

Download a PDF version from Ford, for the 1997 MY at :

https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp

This is a picture of the Power Distribution Box, additional relay box and engine mini fuse panel with the covers off. The 20A in the upper right panel with the red base, is the trailer stop/turn fuse.


The others :
1. Power Distribution Panel / engine compartment fuse panel
Fuse #1 - Trailer tow back-up and tail lamps
Fuse #16 - Trailer tow battery charge and stop/turn lamps
Fuse #28 - Trailer tow electronic brake

2. Instrument Panel Fuses ( cab fuse panel by hood release )
#23 - trailer tow battery charge relay

Generic comments follow:

I'm not real clear on what you are asking ... I can almost guarantee you that you will not find a wiring diagram for your trailer.

Your travel trailer operates on 12 V DC. Your frig, the heater, all the lights, radio, all 12 volts. Your running lights should be getting power from the tow vehicle. While towing, the tow vehicle should be charging the battery. You may find some 110 volt lights inside, but probably not. To keep your battery charged, you have 110 Volt AC power coming in. Your frig may run on 110 V AC but it still needs 12 volts for control. Your Air Cond and Microwave and TV (if equipped) will al,so run on 110.

Regarding the three wires from the battery, there should be a battery charger close by your 12 Volt fuse panel. Even though the trailer is a "vehicle" dont depend on using the frame as a ground like you would in a car. So, that accounts for two of the three - a red or black and a white wire. There may be some dedicated line that the battery supplied to account for the third wire.

There should be a emergency breakaway switch on the front of the trailer. This is a switch with a pull pin. If the trailer breaks away, the pin is pulled out by the tow vehicle and the electric brakes should be automatiocally applied to stop the trailer. This switch should be powered, unfused, directly from the traailer battery and go directly to the electric brakes - presuming you have this feature.

Be aware, this trailer power supply was built and designed for a life style far different from that we enjoy today. If you have a 30 amp cord, as I suspect, 30 amps is enough to charge your battery, run your 12 volt items, run a TV and AC or TV and Micro or Micro and AC but not much else. As you are aware, you have two circuits built with #12 and they are probably protected with a 15 amp breaker though the #12 would be protected with 20 amp breaker in a house. The cord is only rated for 30 amps and it may be tired, unless you have replaced it.

I hope I have provided a little insight to your situation. If I can be of further assistance, please let me know.

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