Looking for nikon cool pix 3100 operating manual

SOURCE: I have a nikon cool pix camera that doesn't turn on

When there is nothing happening, it is hard to understand what is wrong.
Do the menus cone on or anything turn on?
If the camera comes on at all, then try setting all the menus to default.
If nothing comes on, no lights, nothing, then you are stuck.

If it will not turn on at all, I would recommend selling it at a site such as Ebay for repair parts, as is. At least you can get some money back, and buy another camera.

Also you may want to consider to call Nikon and trade-in or trade-up your camera for a re-furbished unit (a re-furbished unit will have everything just as it came from the factory. The support-repair department would be the place to get the number and information.

SOURCE: Battery door is broken cool pix 3100

No, but I do.

You're asking about that stupidly pathetic little plastic loop moulded onto the body, seemingly designed to break.

I've fixed a few of these now using carefully shaped and trimmed paperclip wire held in place using thirty minute epoxy resin. Longer setting epoxy is better if you're patient (essential if you're in a warm climate), but five minute epoxy is a definite no-no.

You'll need a pair of electrician's pliers (preferably miniature ones) with a wire cutter, a small craft knife/scalpel and a set of jewellers files.

Use the knife to cut of the stumps of the original tab.

Straighten out the first two bends only of a regular paperclip (the wire needs to be around 1mm in diameter).

Select a flat file of about the same thickness as the wire, and use the teeth on the edge to cut two small slots where the legs of the old catch used to be. Test the fit using the wire as a gauge.

Now use the pliers to reshape the final bend of the paperclip so that it's nicely squared off with sharp 90 degree bends. You may find that it takes a few clips to get it right. Lay the paperclip into the slots regularly as you do this to ensure that the width of the bent section is correct.

When you're happy with the fit, sit the wire right down in the slots to the correct height for your door to catch tightly.

This is when you'll discover that there are some reinforcing plastic webs (ridges) deeper in the battery chamber which interfere with the fit. Cut slots in them to allow the wire to sit flush. The longer leg of the wire will need to be shortened to around where the first bend in the wire used to be, leaving it around 5cm (2") long.

Now, if you have some, smear a little grease (or even margarine) anywhere that you don't want epoxy resin to stick. Test fit your clip once again, if you've made the slots really snug the wire will sit in place sufficiently for you to test the battery catch engages correctly to give you an idea of how the wire should sit when you glue it.

Use the file to roughen the wire legs and mix the epoxy resin. Using a suitable implement carefully fill the spaces in the strengthening webs through which the wire will pass. Don't just glue the slots, fill in the little squares bounded by the webs.

Apply a thin coat of resin to the legs of the wire, and then lay the wire firmly into the slots which you've prepared. Make sure that it sits flush and will not obstruct the batteries when refitted.

Wipe off any excess epoxy around the rim of the battery chamber and sit the new loop which you've made so that it's at the correct height to enable the battery cover to engage, but no so far out that the cover is a loose fit. The slow setting time of the epoxy will ensure that you have time to get this just right.

When all's well, leave the camera for around twenty four hours to allow the resin to cure. If you've used twelve hour resin then leave it for a couple of days. Shortly before the initial thirty minute/twelve hour setting time though, you may wish to make sure that the battery catch is fully open to make really certain that you don't glue it closed by accident.

When the glue has set, clean of any excess protective grease which you applied and fit the batteries. If you've taken the time to do the job carefully then you'll have a perfect repair to a truly brilliant camera. Even the 2.1 MP version, the Coolpix 2100 was capable of outstanding outdoor shots which I could print to A4 size.

If the loop is slightly loose, then you can usually carefully bend in the top of the loop to tighten it. If it's a bit tight you can usually loosen it a little by gently bending in the sides slightly to give the loop a bit more height.

Click HERE to see how the final repair should look. (Credit to www.uthunter.com for photo).

The same technique and materials can be used on the later Coolpix 2200 and 3200 models, but the wire is fitted to a slot cut along the rim of the battery chamber cover instead and shaping the wire is *much* more fiddly.

I hope that this has helped; all I ask in return is that you return the favour by rating my answer.

Note that a faster, simpler, but far uglier repair can be made by using a metal or plastic plate screwed into the tripod socket. See here for details.

SOURCE: COOLPIX L100 Digital Camera: I am using a L 100 Nikon Cool pix. I have videos s...

Hello there, for transferring media from the memory card to your computer it is much better to remove the memory card from the camera slot and use a card reader as the operating system of your computer will detect it as new media found and you can easily drag and drop the files you want to utilize and will save battery on your camera as well.

SOURCE: When I turn my Nikon Cool pix camera on it makes a

Hello

The problem is that the lens has become stuck in the barrel. There are some DIY solutions you could try, but the probability is that you will have to get it fixed by a professional.

Use these at own risk as it may further damage the camera.

Firstly , try connecting your ac adapter or usb cable.

Try holding the shutter button while switching on the camera.

Look at the lens , and if some of the lens 'circles' is misaligned or not concentric then try wiggling it (while holding camera lens down).

Try gently pushing or pulling the lens when it extends but this is risky as it may cause the lens barrel to slip out of its guidance system.

Another way to do this is to place the camera lens down on a hard surface and then power it up. Be sure to use a soft cloth or something similar as to not scratch your lens or casing. Let the lens push the camera up and down a few times and sometimes the little resistance provided by the camera is enough to get things going again.

Try hitting your camera near the lens on the body with the soft tissue on the palm of your hand.

Other than that , I would take the camera to a repair center for a evaluation to see if it would cost more to repair than to replace the camera.

If it is still under warranty I would suggest you take it in before trying any of these steps and remove any off-brand batteries or accessories as some stores are really fussy about warranty repairs on camera's with non-brand accessories.

You can also have a look at THIS link.

Hope the advise is useful. please do not hesitate to let me know if you need any further assistance.

Regards
Andrea

SOURCE: need a manual for a

You can download the user manual for this camera from this link, just click HERE.