Leaking at cold water intake

Hi -

If your water heater is working (ie: making hot water) then most likely your heater isn't leaking. Rather, the leak is coming from the cold water supply and running down the tank where you see it at the bottom of the tank. A working tank that is leaking would produce a leak of hot water - not cold. You should carefully check the cold water piping for a leak, drip or stream of water and make the required repairs.

Find the cold water supply pipe to the tank. Most are labeled, but if unsure - turn on the closest hot water faucet and feel the temperature of the pipes connected to the water tank. Follow the coldest pipe back (moving away from the tank) until you reach the first shut off valve on that pipe and shut it off completely.
No more cold water will fill the tank and cause water to spray / leak from the pipe.
There is no need to shut off the gas really, as it is controlled by the temperature sensor on the tank - but if you insist, you should find either a flexible pipe - or a black iron pipe that enters a controller. Most have a dial marked "OFF" "ON" & "PILOT". Simply twist the dial from ON to OFF and the gas will be shut off.
Good luck!

Copy following link for general troubleshoot:
Then add a comment and let's get the problem solved.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html

FYI:
Anode rod is either connected to hot-water nipple, or installed in separate port located top of tank. Anode stops water heater tank from rusting.
Dip tube is a plastic tube that is connected to cold water nipple and extends to bottom of tank so cold water always enters tank bottom.
TP valve is brass safety valve that is screwed into a port located on top of tank, or located on side of tank, and will release water when pressure or temperature exceed rating of TP.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Firstly, don't confuse condensation on the pipe with a leak. The cold water inside the pipe makes the pipe cold. The warmer air around the pipe causes condensation to appear - much the way a glass of cold water "sweats" on a table in a warm room.

Next, determine exactly where the source of the leak is. If it is at a soldered or threaded junction of pipes or pipe an tank, you should be able to solve it - if you know how to solder.

You'll have to power off the tank at the circuit breaker (or shut off the gas supply if not an electric type) before doing anything else. Next, shut off the cold water supply to the tank. This valve must be on the supply side of the leak. If the leak is ahead of the valve, you might need to shut off the water to the entire building. Then, open the closest hot water faucet. Finally, lower the water level of the tank by draining the tank from the bottom valve (you'll need to connect a garden hose to it and run the end to the outdoors, shower drain, toilet, etc.). Keep in mind - the water will not drain "up hill". That means the end of the hose must be lower than the top of the tank. You do not need to drain the entire contents of the heater unless you need to physically move it (or if it is a natural gas or propane type - as a licensed plumber or pipe fitter will be required to disconnect / reconnect the fuel line). A few gallons of water should be enough to allow working on the pipe without causing spills.

Disconnect the cold water supply pipe from the tank - above the source of the leak. You may have to do this by un-soldering the nearest pipe coupling with a propane or mapp gas torch. Soak a thick cloth in cold water and wrap it around the pipe at the tank's inlet to prevent the heat from the torch from damaging the plastic inlet fitting inside the tank. If the inlet connector is melted or damaged; the entire tank must be replaced. Additionally, you might need to unsolder the hot water piping to get better access to the cold water pipe. Only disconnect as much as needed to do the job.

Once the pipe(s) are disconnected, remove the section of pipe that mates with the leak. You will probably need wrenches to unthread pipe sections or fittings so that you can carefully inspect the male and female threads. Fully remove the pipes & fittings and obtain replacements as needed.

You might want to think about installing unions on the hot and cold water pipes. These will make future removal of the tank very easy with no need for soldering. Doing this will increase the time it takes to do the job this time, but simplifies tank removal in the future. You're already into this job - and its only few more extra steps.

Before reassembly, you should provide several wraps of teflon tape around the threaded portion of all male pipe threads. Telfon tape is highly suggested as it is clean and very easy to work with when compared with pipe dope that is applied with a brush. Carefully thread the pipes into the fitting(s) on the tank hand tight. If you are presented enough pipe or fitting to hold the tank inlet fitting, do so with a wrench. Use a second wrench to fully tighten the pipe into fitting. If there is no way to hold the inlet fitting, use a wrench to tighten the pipe about an additional full turn. Always use two wrenches to tighten pipes into fittings when possible. Make up any other threaded fittings (unions, etc.) and pipes as needed. Dry fit the copper pipes together - cut long pieces and replace short pieces of pipes as needed. Once all the pieces are are the correct length and fit together properly prepare for soldering. Clean the outside ends of all copper pipes and insides of couplings and connectors to be soldered with emery cloth, sand paper, or wire brush tools designed for expressly this purpose etc. until they are fully scuffed up and are bright and shiny. Wipe any dust and debris from the pipe with a clean, dry cloth. Try not to touch the cleaned parts of the pipe with bare hands. Apply a light coating of soldering flux to the cleaned ends and fit the pipes with couplings together again like the dry fitting earlier. Place a wet cloth around the pipes nearest the inlets (as before when removing the pipes) once again.

Heat the couplings and fittings one at a time with just enough heat to cause the solder to be wicked into the fitting. It is important not over heat the fittings or pipes. Be sure to let solder flow all the way around the pipes and into both ends of the coupling to ensure a complete solder seal both in and out of the coupling. Wipe away excess solder with a wet cloth to keep your work good looking. Once one fitting has been completed, go to the next and repeat until all fittings and pipes are soldered and clean. A good soldered joint should have a ring of solder visible all the way around the pipe inside the edge of the coupling.

If you've never soldered before, you should practice before doing this repair. Botched soldered joints could result in water damage and additional repair work that is greater than the original problem. Of course, a licensed plumber will make short work of this job and is an excellent alternative to DIY when money for the repair is available.

Good luck!

The warranty should not be void by using water softener, BUT read product manual.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html

1) First thing: Why is water heater leaking? Where is the leak?
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html
For example, if you have electric water heater leaking from element, then replace element.
Replace leaking TP valve.
If water is leaking down vent pipe, and combustion chamber rusted out, then vent problem must be corrected.
These are not covered by warranty.
If tank is rusted out, then read below.

2) If water heater is rusted out after 4 years, you might have stray current corrosion.
This happens when hot and cold pipes are not connected together with a ground wire, and/or if cold water pipe is not grounded to earth.
This might not be covered by warranty.

3) Read water heater instruction manual for advisories.
Tanks rust out when anode rod is depleted. Softened water depletes anode rod faster.
Instruction manual says to check anode rod each year.
Checking anode rod is like checking oil on an engine. If oil was never checked and engine burned up, the manufacturer will not honor the warranty.
If anode rod is depleted, and tank is rusted out, the warranty might not cover the rusted tank since owner was supposed to check for anode depletion.

4) Anode rods can also be covered with calcium deposits and stop working.
This night not have anything to do with water softener, but anode stops working and tanks rusts out.
In any case the owner's manual probably says to check anode rod to prevent leaking from rusted tank
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

If tank is rusted out, then that is caused by depleted anode rod, or tank that is not electrically grounded on hot side pipe.
If pipe nipple is rusted out, then that can be caused by improper connection between copper and galvanized pipes, and caused by non-grounded hot water pipes.

If tank is leaking, replace it.
If nipple is leaking, remove with pipe wrench, apply teflon tape or joint compound on threads, and install new nipple. Replace anode rod if possible. Correct copper-galvanized connections. Add ground wire between hot and cold pipes.

http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

If you have a leaking water heater there is a serious problem.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-leaking.html
Page shows how to limp along on a leaking water heater if your water heater needs replacement.

One of three things is causing the water:
1) Loose water connection on top of tank that is dripping down inside tank >> check pipes on top of tank.

2) The vent is clogged or not working correctly causing condensation inside flue pipe.
Condensation water is dripping back down inside tank.
Problem means possible CO poisoning if gas is not venting.
Look at vent pipe to see if joints are corroded.
Use long fireplace match > light match and put into draft hood at top of tank and see if smoke goes up.
Put hand at draft hood opening when water heater turns on to see if vent gas enters home.
Do same test when furnace turns on to see if furnace vent is pushing back into water heater.
Does water heater vent inside same pipe as furnace? You may need to set up separate vent for water heater if furnace gasses are pushing back into home.
Check furnace vent for obstructions.
Look at vent stack top of home to see if hood is in place.
Check if bird nest is built inside warm vent pipe.
Improper flue is top priority for getting fixed so vent gasses properly escape home.
You may have to call a plumber.
Professional plumbing forum:
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

3) Your water heater is rusted out.
A rusted tank has to be replaced.
It cannot be repaired.
However, before replacing tank, you do not want a tank failure where tank ruptures and water runs inside home until water is shut off.
This will cause major damage.
Protect yourself first.
Turn off water valve above tank.
Move gas knob to 'pilot' so burner is not heating water.
Open tub spout on hot side to relieve pressure on tank so it will not rupture.

Now you're protected.
Link above shows how to limp along on failed tank until you can replace heater.

You need a new gas water heater from Lowes or Home Depot
Look at label on side of you tank for gallons and btu's of your water heater.
Measure height to flue pipe so you get same height water heater, so pipes don't have to be changed.
You need a pipe wrench and teflon tape which will be wrapped on each pipe thread when pipes are reassembled.

Step1) Drain water heater using valve at bottom of tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

2) Turn off gas valve going into heater.
When gas valve is perpendicular to gas line, then gas is off.
Dissemble gas line to water heater.

3) Disconnect flue pipe and support flue pipe with wire so it doesn't not fall down. Flue pipe joints should be held together at each joint with 3 screws.

4) Turn off water. Shut off valve is on COLD side.
Disconnect water pipes.

5) Move old water heater out of way.

6) Set new water heater in place. Put water heater in drip pan.

7) Connect water pipes >> cold goes to side marked cold.
Hot to hot.
Buy new flexible water connector pipes at home center for easy installation of water pipes.

8) Connect gas line exactly as it was connected before.
Home center sells flexible gas line connector for easy installation of gas line.
To test for gas leak after installation, mix liquid soap with water and put around gas line joints to see if there are bubbles.
Natural gas has less pressure than water lines, so gas pipes are easy to seal with ordinary wrench.

9) install TP pipe that runs to floor. Use old one off old heater.

10) Fill tank completely with water until water is coming out of tub spout.

11) Turn on gas, and light pilot as shown in manual.
New gas heater sometimes have small water leak when first fired up, so ignore a bit of water.

12) Save water heater manual like it is gold, and read everything in manual.

It sounds like two problems.
Problem 1) Clog inside faucet or clog inside pipes at faucet
Remove supply tubes leading to faucet and see if problem is inside pipes or inside faucet.
My bet is clog inside faucet.

If you have galvanized pipe that meets copper pipe, this can be trouble spot.
Article on clogged water pipes at Inspectapedia:
http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pipe_Clog_Repair_Guide.htm

Article on clogged pipes:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/backflushing.html

Problem 2) Water heater leak ... you say tank valve is leaking? Is that cold-water shut-off valve? Or tank drain valve? Or TP valve?

If cold water shut-off is leaking, then replace shut off.

If tank drain valve is leaking, then check if plastic valve is cracked. If drain valve is cracked, then replace with a brass valve from Home Depot. If plastic valve breaks off, then use hammer and screwdriver to gently chip out the broken plastic valve. New valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. If valve is just dripping, then put garden-hose cap over end of valve and screw down tight.

If TP valve is leaking, then replace with same temperature and pressure rating. New TP valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe.

Problem 3) If pressure is low all over house:
Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that screws onto hose connection.

Test pressure on outdoor spigot.
Open faucet and check if pressure drops. This says if problem is inside pipes that enter house.

Test pressure on water heater drain valve.
This says if pressure problem is before -or- after water heater.

If problem is before the water heater, then shut-off valve located on cold water line is suspect.
If problem is after water heater, it could be in hot water outflow pipe on top of water heater, or a nearby elbow.
Remove hot water line leading from water heater and check pressure. This says if problem is where hot water leaves tank.
Read articles above about clogs inside water lines.

Tanks are marked with Hot and Cold.
1) If water connections are on top of tank, look for red marking or word HOT that shows where hot water pipe connects. Look for blue marking or word COLD that shows cold water connection.
2) If water connections are on side of tank, cold water connects to bottom one, and hot connects to top.

3) If hot and cold are reversed, the tank will not work.
Pipes on top of tank: cold water enters tank and is sent to bottom of tank in a long tube called the dip tube. This means the cold is on the bottom since hot water rises to the top. The hot water exits top of tank.
Pipes on side of tank: You want cold water to enter bottom, so hot water naturally rises to the top outlet.

What is the leaking pvc pipe connected to? The T & P valve on the side (or top) of the tank? Or is it an incoming cold or outgoing hot water line? If you have just lit the water heater, the T & P valve may drip, but only for a little while and it will stop. The T & P (temperature and pressure relief) valve may be bad and need replaced. Turn off the incoming cold water valve and turn the gas valve to off position. Then drain the water heater using the T & P valve, it will stop draining when the water level is just below it. Remove the T&P valve and replace with new one. Use thread sealing tape on threads. Or call a plumber if not sure.