My amp recently just went dead. I checked all the wiring tested the remote and power cables have power I have it connected through a tsunami 40 farad cap along with a t4004 fosgate amp no problems with it. I took the cover off nothing is burned fuse is good. None of the lights come on when powered nothing at all any ideas?
I was repairing my speaker, and when i put it back in the box and tested it, it was fine, then when i hooked the other back up to my amplifier,it played for about 5 secs then the power to the amp was lost, on the way to school sometimes(Not very often) it would cut, now the amp wont get power(come on). The green light nor red light comes on. The connection is good, and the fuses, so whats the problem
I was repairing my speaker, and when i put it back in the box and tested it, it was fine, then when i hooked the other back up to my amplifier,it played for about 5 secs then the power to the amp was lost, on the way to school sometimes(Not very often) it would cut, now the amp wont get power(come on). The green light nor red light comes on. The connection is good, and the fuses, so whats the problem
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If the amp is in protect mode, it probably has shorted output transistors. To eliminate other possible causes, do the following. Disconnect all speaker wires from the 'amplifier's speaker terminals' and disconnect RCA/signal cables from the amp. If it powers up normally, the speakers/wiring need to be checked. If it still shuts down (goes into protect mode), the amp almost certainly has shorted output transistors and will need to be repaired. If the amp only shuts down when it's driven to relatively high volume, you need to confirm that you have sufficient power supply voltage. With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts on either the B+ or remote line, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low. If 'both' the B+ and remote turn-on lines are low and your battery is fully charged, you may have a bad ground connection.
is protection light coming on when sub is connected? some radios have weak remote that blow out easy..check power on it if power is making it to amp..if its an ANL fuse they can look good but be bad.
You should verify some other way (with a multimeter or another amp/device) that your 12V is working at the amp. Then to troubleshoot the Remote wire, take a short lead of scrap wire and run it from the 12V power input of the amp over to the Remote input like a jumper. If the amp still doesn't power up, then look for and check the fuse on the amp. If there's good power at the amp, the remote input has good power, and the amp doesn't turn on, and the fuse isn't blown, then the amp is probably toast. Good luck!
It should not have affected anything unless the amp gets too hot due to being bridged or the ground and a power source touched each other which would have sparked and put the some amps in protection mode unless it has a fuseable link then it will blow the fuse such as the 12v battery or the power on wire which is blue and is called the (remote wire).
When adding (Amplified Powered Equipment) to your car you have to in most cases:
What kind of sub and amp do you have?
Make sure that your battery terminals are tighten.
Depending on the size battery thats already in your vehicle you will need to Upgrade your battery size with about 800 Cranking Amps or add a Capacitor depending on the wattage of the amp
Alternators are a big issue as well due to amp outputs in your case it shouldn't unless your light is slightly visible on the dash.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
With your multimeter set to DC volts and the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp, touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals as the amp shuts down. If the voltage drops below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is dropping too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
Disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up normally (doesn't go into protection), the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
Generally, when an amplifier goes into protection when you attempt to power it up, it means that the output transistors have failed.
Measure the DC voltage across the B+ and ground terminals as well as across remote and ground. If you have less than 11 volts when the amp tries to power up, the amp could be shutting down due to low voltage.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
Measure the DC voltage across the B+ and ground terminals as well as across remote and ground. If you have less than 11 volts when the amp tries to power up, the amp could be shutting down due to low voltage.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
wouldn't be the first JL amp I saw fried...but there are some tests you can do. First of all, double check your fuses, they may appear to be fine, but sometimes they are blown even if you can't see it. Either blindly change them or test them for continuity with a digital multimeter. Also, disconnect the remote turnon and jump power directly over from the power wire to the remote terminal on the amp, if the amp powers on then you have to go double check your remote wire. Hope this helps.
I was repairing my speaker, and when i put it back in the box and tested it, it was fine, then when i hooked the other back up to my amplifier,it played for about 5 secs then the power to the amp was lost, on the way to school sometimes(Not very often) it would cut, now the amp wont get power(come on). The green light nor red light comes on. The connection is good, and the fuses, so whats the problem
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