It is Windows 10.
I have reverted my machine back to Windows 8.1 and its working perfectly.
As long as you haven't had Windows 10 on your machine for 30 days you can revert back to Windows 8.1.
First of all open Settings and click Update and Recovery
Now in Update and Recovery window click on Recovery option. This will open a list of 3 options on the right hand side. You need to look for "Go back to a previous version of Windows" option. To start the process, click Get Started button under this option.
It will ask you to plug in your charger before allowing you to continue.
Make sure your battery is fully charged, because before you press the get started button you need to place the cursor over the button and plug in the charger.
Once the screen goes black press the keypad which should then click the button.
Wait a few seconds and then unplug the charger.
All being well the process will now continue without the charger plugged in.
Once you get to the restart screen it should be safe to plug in the charger and you should then still have a screen you can see.
Hope this helps.
SOURCE: Acer AL1714 17" LCD Monitor Good Power supply no power on monitor
Hello, I have to same problem. I returned my monitor to Acer but got it back unrepaired, they could not see the malfunction. But I kept on sending it back, until I got a new model. Now after 2 years I get the same thing with this monitor. But there's no warranty anymore, so I looked into the problem myself. I found out that inside the powercircuit board is connected to the mainboard through a 10pin connector. The 5 pins that are on the lowest row, show a trace of white powder, I suppose occidation. I sprayed a little of contactspray in it. I must say the problem is not gone, but much better. The problem shows not so frequent anymore and lasts not so long. At first the screen switched of for 3 to 5 minutes and came back on. Now the screen is gone for perhaps 1 second and returns. So I'm almost convinced the problem has something to do with the connection of the powercircuitboard inside and the mainboard inside, when the monitor heats up a bad connection occurs due to occidation of the 10 pin connector. If you find a solution that fixes the problem 100% let me know, please. Mario.
SOURCE: monitor goes black
Sorry to have to tell you this, but this is common in LCD monitors. The reason that it is going black when it boots is for one of two reasons. You either have a bad power supply that powers your LCD or your LCD's backlight is blown. These can be repaired or you can purchase a new one. But if it goes black 9 times out of 10 is because the backlight is bad. These can be repaired!
SOURCE: Acer AL1716 Power problem?
i have experienced the same problem (power cycles on and off and on and off... nothing but Acer logo and black screen) on 2 Acer model 1706 A version 1706 Ab monitors both built in July 2006. Before the customer reported the 2nd monitor with the same problem, i sent the 1st one into Acer for warranty service (after testing in on 4 machines w/4 different video cards). They shipped it back with a paper saying the monitor was repaired. I returned the monitor to the customer and it exhibited the same symptoms (aka, not repaired). Could there have been a bad batch in July 2006? When I plug a new Acer AL1716 monitor into the same computers, I have no problems at all.
SOURCE: ACER AL 1714 SM MONITOR
Hi...there,
Well...your backlight inverter are busted.... need replaced a new one or repaired it.
SOURCE: ACER AL1914 LCD Monitor goes black but green light stays on
The monitor is doing a self test a finding an error.
The lcd has three parts, the screen plate(windows)/the logic(vga)/the
inverter(power plug). Parts that go are the backlight ccfl's, behind
the plate, and parts of the inverter, ie capacitors, all three take a
bit of power from the inverter. The self test check that all the lights
are ok and the inverter is ok, else it switchs off, ie if 3/4 light
work it will switch off(my own case), hence the on chech error then
off, However sometime there are stages of on/off ie on/ but no screen
display, if that is the case the following may be of help...if you put
bright light at an angle close to lcd can you see a windows shadow,
text icons etc, ie still logic power passing,then .... (from a.n.
other) after two weeks searching I finally find doctor living stone
http://www.aplusperfect.com/articles/lcd_capacitor_repair more fun with
paulbtorrent
the takening the case bit off is like opening your wallet a second time
after buying a new LCD, but you must! smallest two screw driver's flat
headed, practice using two pennies stuck together()with your fingers
after, one little () move and inch and {} again, with the case , it
does not break, just need to lever open
[once open you realize they somehow put that old briefcase clip
inside!] also note the bright light test to do first to see if can see
a windows screen , and that capacitors are one for a number of things
that a make a inverter work! there a transistors as well, given that
however, to replace all the capacitors on my inverter, was 11
capacitors, cost me $11 (uk ebay) and already had the iron and solder.
So only cost me me $11 to try and see but no luck , still fun and I
still can see the screen for 2 sec' at a time plus I have a spare set
of caps now in the event that the new one do go burst! you have to
laugh really, what next , a new on/off button, as you work though the
whole inverter mmmMMMMmmmMMMMmmmMMMMTim
Berners-leeMMMMMmmmmMMMMMmmmmcome back all is not
wellMMMMMMMMMMnnnnnnweek later land sight
mmmmmMMMMMMMMMmmmmgggggggg(from
another a.n other)Generally, if the screen went out quickly, it was the
inverter. If it went out over a slow period of time (flickering etc..)
I would bet it is the lamp.replaceing the lamp should be pretty
challenging. as that requires complete breakdown of your LCD,
extraction of your dead lamp, and soldering in your new lamp... but I
would like to say that I it did this after realizing it's 2 x kitchen
strips inside [========] with wires that can connect back to the
inverter with out any desoldering(ie kit assembly/dis) with the outter
case remove (glass plate safe away) I could reconnect and see that 3/4
were working (i!i hardcard ) cause the inverter to switch off after a
secound ! order bult and replace and going
to cheap and see if I can get away with fitting a 15" in my 19' as it a
1/3 of the price ! the market as drop out there, hope the inverter does
not miss the length, or the screen out
put.http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopCCFL1.aspx OR
MONITOR
329 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×