I need a wiring diagram for VGFS15-MSP combination switch/GFCI

You have a short somewhere?
If you have AFCI (arc fault) instead of GFCI, then there is probably a loose wire
Troubleshoot steps on following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html

Gene

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What device are you replacing... a switch or a outlet?

1) If you are replacing a switch with 3 or 4 wires?
That is either a 3-way switch, 4-way switch, or a DPDT switch and cannot be replaced with GFCI

2) If you are replacing outlet with 4 wires, then it can be replaced with GFCI combo.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#8

3) If you are replacing ordinary single-pole switch, then you can replace with GFCI combo IF the box has a neutral wire
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#6

4) You can install GFCI protection on any circuit by installing GFCI earlier in the circuit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html


Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

I've copied instructions from an Amazon review.
worse than worthless and border on dangerous. Be forewarned, and allow some time to install it correctly; and don't expect any help from the included paperwork.

IMPORTANT THINGS TO KNOW:

- There is no ON/OFF indicated on the switch or the instructions, so there is no way to know which direction is on or off. The picture included is upside down, and shown in the OFF position. If you install it with the switch on top, it will work intuitively with the switch up for ON and down for OFF. (Should be common sense, but doesn't say it anywhere, and the text on the device and photo suggests otherwise.)

In short, here's what the directions should say:

Before you begin -> Leave yellow sticker over top connections unless you want to add downstream GFCI protected outlets/lights - that's straightforward.

1) Strip all connections to 1/2", and use the holes on back of receptacle for direct connection.
2) Connect wires from breaker into terminals in back of switch/outlet. (Hot=Black-Gold; Neutral=White-Silver)
3) Connect white wire from light into extra hole next to the white wire from breaker.
4) Connect one short black wire from outlet into the hole next to black wire from breaker.
(this means all four holes are now filled)
5) Connect remaining black wire sticking out of receptacle directly to the black wire from your light.
6) Ensure all ground lines are properly connected.
7) Push into box, install cover plate and enjoy.

NOTE: This will result in the GFCI working properly, with no GFCI protection for the light. This is the recommended install, so that if the GFCI trips you won't be in the dark. If you want GFCI protection for the light as well, simply modify step 4 and insert the black pigtail into the hot terminal under the sticker.

The directions offer myriad ways to connect this, but are incredibly hard to decipher because the text does not agree with the diagrams. I believe that diagram B1 was the one that 95% of people will need...

1) Copy following link for wiring gfci
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html

2) Add a comment March 2013 and say what voltage you are wiring, and what the wires connet to.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If it worked before, it should be a wire to wire replacement. You are replacing a regular switch/outlet with another switch/outlet which just happens to be a GFI outlet.
Wire the old switch wires to the new switch and the old outlet wires to the new outlet.
Cut the breaker/s off first !!

1) In this situation we need to test the wires.
Electricians don't guess, they test, and a diagram would be guessing which wire color does what.

2) FYI: non-GFCI receptacle located in bathroom is not code, and device will have to be replaced when property is sold. The reason for GFCI is the likelihood of you holding defective electrical gizmo from China in one hand while putting other hand in running water. Or electrical gizmo falling into bathtub occupied by wife with large life insurance policy.
If you have kids using that bathroom, I want you to avoid using non-GFCI device.

3) Your new device has color-coded screws: Dark, brass, and silver.
These colors tell electrician how to wire the device.

4) Let's test to see which wire connects to which screw:
Separate wires.
Use ordinary 2-wire tester from hardware store.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. Hot wire connects to dark-colored screw on device.
Hot wire is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires in box, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to silver screw, and will complete circuit to receptacle.
If box does not have a Neutral wire, the circuit to receptacle can be completed using ground wire on silver screw, but I am not recommending that.
Last wire goes to Load (light, fan, motor). Load wire connects to brass screw, and will complete circuit to Load.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixyas phone service.
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Leviton and Lutron both make GFCI switch-outlet combo.
Buy at Home Center or on-line
Leviton 7299
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-7299-NI-15-Amp-125-Volt-Combination/dp/B000UJADW6

Dave, So you have a GFCI outlet, and a 3way switch and a 3way dimmer switch, right? First off, if you want the GFCI to protect the switches & light you will use both output terminals of the GFCI which have tape over them. The white wire (from the silver screw output of the GFCI) will go to the lights, passing through the switch boxes, but not connecting to anything. The black wire (from the brass screw output of the GFCI) will feed the first switch. Both the switch and the dimmer must have 3 terminals (plus ground). One terminal is the input/output, the other two are "travelers". On a full size switch the input/output will be on the top and the two travelers will be on the bottom (or upside down from this - the key is that the travelers will be on two sides of the switch but on one end. There will be 3 wires (plus ground) going between the two switch boxes 1-the neutral which does not connect to either switch, 2,3 the two travelers. Connect the two traveler wires to the two traveler terminals on the dimmer. The other terminal on the dimmer is the hot wire output to the lights. I hope you found this helpful. Good luck

Can you tell me where the outgoing wires are going to. Bare wire is ground goes in green color screw, white wire is neutral and goes in silver color screw, black wire is hot or live and goes in gold color screw. It is difficult to help you with little information. how do you know what is incoming and outgoing.

power coming in from the breaker box: black wire will go to line-hot screw, and the white wire will go to the line-white screw. the switch wires coming out of the back of the gfci- 1 will go to the load-hot screw & the other black wire will wire nut to the black wire going to the light. the white wire going to the light must go to the load-white screw.

power coming in from the breaker box: black wire will go to line-hot screw, and the white wire will go to the line-white screw. the switch wires coming out of the back of the gfci- 1 will go to the load-hot screw & the other black wire will wire nut to the black wire going to the light. the white wire going to the light must go to the load-white screw.