My at lp120 doesn't work

With a bit of luck just the internal mains fuse failure. Otherwise could be transformer failure or a verity of other things.

Your compressor was made by Porter Cable for Sears. The motor / pump is used on many different compressor models depending on tank size and style options. None of the models /including yours/ were ever designed for 115/220v. I did happen to see a compressor that was built for european destination that was 220v. It was easy to identify because it had a two round prong male plug (it could not be wired for 115v however). Good Luck

Most likely the power supply was blown. USA uses a 110/115 V Europe uses a 220V .

is your dryer 110v or 220v? If everything works except the heating element the element is bad or the one time fuse has popped it has two wires on it and one runs to the heating element or the hi temp switch on the heating element the fuse will be a small disc type when removed do not mistake the hi temp switch it is located on the element housing the one time fuse is ususally located on the dryer its self all of this is accessed on the back of the dryer under the back panel. good luck. (ground and common are the same in homes in mobile homes they are seperate and the dryers are 4 wire plugs L1 ,L2,neutral and ground).

If you want to fry your electronics or appliances that's it's a sure way to accomplish that.
While appliance working ONLY at 220v will just not work or under perform (like a hair drier) when plugging electronic equipment that runds ONLY at 110v then that item will be "fried" as all its electric components will be burnt as it will receive twice the power that it was build to receive. Should that happen the safety switch on the 220v circuit where the item was MISTAKENLY plugged will be triggered (hopefully or there will be risk of fire and serious injuries, even death) and the power will be shut off. That's a major but possible mistake.
If traveling abroad those who come to US will unlikely damage their appliances (like electric razors) as they will receive less power (110v vs 220v) and usually these items are protected against these mistakes by the specifications of their own design. The opposite is not true of course as just mentioned above.
So do not play around with dangerous items please! ;) On a positive note though: Nowadays most appliances have dual power and should work whether plugged in a 110v, 60Hz (most common in US) or 220v 50Hz (most common in Europe). So nothing really happens... it just works as long as you have the proper adapters to plug the appliance to the different receptacles.
Note: One of the differences is that (without going into the math of it all), an appliance working at 110v will draw x2 times the power than it draws when working on 220v so if an appliance was drawing 3A at 110v it will only draw 1.5A when working at 220v.
Best.

You probably blew the fuse in the power box where the plug ,and 115/230 switch is. unit must be dissambled, as well as the power box. there should be a fuse inside. If you can't do it take it to a repair shop. If you can ,make sure the new fuse fuse is the same amperage.

Did you check trafo? Do you get any power on secondary coil?

It could be a defective heating element or thermostat. Open the service panel and check for 115/220V on the heating element tags. If you can read the 115/220V, you should replae the element. In case you can't read it - the thermostat should be replaced. Good luck!

It could be a defective thermostat or heating element(In most of the cases it is the heating element).Open the service panel and check with a multi-meter for 115/220V on the heating element tags. If you can read 115/220V on its tags, it should be replaced. In case you can't read 115/220v on its tags, you should replace the thermostat. Good luck!

I don't know for sure, but I suspect that if you open it up, there should be a fuse near the power supply portion of the unit. It may have taken the hit for you and can perhaps be replaced easily. (As a disclaimer... be sure the unit is not plugged in when you open the case! And only replace the fuse with another of equal rating.) If it's not a fuse, then you probably smoked the primary winding of the transformer. If it got past that, you may have popped the rectifier and/or capacitor(s) in the power supply.