Question about Briggs & Stratton 11HP 6200W Es Generator

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Briggs & Stratton Burnt Brushes

I have a Briggs & Stratton EXL8000 generator. I keep having to replace the brushes. The "furthest in" brush (black wire) is always broken and it appears that the casing for the brush melts. What could be the problem?

Sometimes it will work for a month. Other times a few days and even less.

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I did find out that the inner slip ring was worn down. Still unknown why and the repair tech we took it to twice just replaced the brushes and never looked at the slip rings.

My solution, which has worked for over two months now (knock on wood) is as follows:

The slip ring on this unit can only be replaced by replacing the whole rotor assembly. I looked at the width of the brushes and the width of slip rings. The slip rings are twice as big as a brush. The solution was to move the brushes outward by one brush length. In order to do that, I had to turn the brush assembly around because of the extra plastic on the unit and space it out one brush length. Note: Still hook the wires as if the brush assembly was not turned around.

I used an old brush assembly and cut the two areas where the screws go through to make my spacers and it works perfectly.

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

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Are you running something that has a high startup current? A well pump, air conditioner, air compressor, etc.
All of these things draw more than the rated power from your generator for a little while, then settle down and draw the regular rated power they have on the dataplate. This higher level of power is called the surge rating of the generator ( think the EXL8000 is something like 8250 watts for 30 seconds, check your manual) - if you regularly go over the surge rating you'll burn brushes, mess up slip rings, and potentialy kill a voltage regulator once in a while.

When we calculate how large a generator to use for an emergency backup system we add up all of the currents required by all of the things that have to run, then we calculate the maximum surge power for all the loads that have this requirement. We try and get a generator that will supply the "regular" load at 80% of it's rated capacity and still be able to handle the expected surge load. Sometimes we have to use a larger generator than needed for the regular load to get the surge load to be OK.

So you might need to trade up to the 10Kw Briggs to handle your load.


Posted on Dec 03, 2008


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Need wiring diagram,from alternator to plug-ins for briggs & Stratton (3500) Elite series Model # 030208-0

No wiring diagram available from Briggs. Try re-magnetizing the rotor. No AVR or Capacitor listed in the parts list.

Disconnect the wires to brushes ( pay attention to the order) and apply 12vdc to brushes. Positive goes to brush closest to the bearing. Start the generator and check for output. If output is normal run the unit a few minutes to ensure re-magnetization then shut down normally. After shut down disconnect the 12 vdc source and re-install the previous disconnected wires. Now re start the generator and test for output should be okay provide there is no problems with the alternator. If no output during the above re-magnetization then your rotor windings my burned out.

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I had it repaired about a month ago. it needed brushes. and now today it will run but not put no currant out put so it probaly the same thing. But where can i just buy the brushes myself. cant find...

Try starter / alternator rebuild shops. NAPA auto parts sometimes carries a small selection as well.

If you just had brushes put in a month ago, problem likely lies somewhere else. I have several hundred hours on OEM factory brushes on most of my generators, and no problems. Some sets have brushes that have outlasted the engine. Something else is going on.

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That is called 'flashing the field' Give me the make and model and I can help you

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at

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I get no 110 or 220 volt power

generac was purchased by Briggs Stratton some years ago, however some information is available at the following web address, just enter your model number:

The small board that you describe is the bridge rectifier that converts ac from the windings to dc for the armature. You can test the brush/board by removing the part from the generator and applying 12 to 16 volts ac to the input tabs/wires then test/read dc (dc voltage will be lower than input ) voltage at the brushes. Use meter to make sure that you are getting dc. I use a small power supply less than one amp that I purchased at the thrift store for a couple of dollars. If test fails replace part. If it tests ok re-install brushes and re-connect the ac power supply to brush/board which in turn will energize the armature. At this point test the armatrue for magnetic power. I use a thin welding rod or wire against armature. If you feel a magnet start the engine. If the windings are good you should get some voltage at the plugs and the two wires that feed the brushes (will not be full voltage). If voltage is present, kill engine and disconnect ac power supply and connect the original wires to brushes/board and start engine. If you now have voltage at plugs you spiked the system indirectly by energising the armature. If still no voltage you may have an open circuit that feeds the brushes or diode pack is failing with the incresased voltage. Good luck with your repair and email if you have questions.

Apr 12, 2009 | Electrical Supplies

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