What color wires go to power switch and circuit breaker

You see the circuit breaker, supplies voltage to power seat switch, You see the wire color? On hinge side of driver door is probably a wiring harness, probably has a protective rubber boot covering. Pull the boot back far enough to see wire colors, use a testlight, have to penetrate the insulation to get at the wiring. If no voltage, either wire is broken or check for voltage at the circuit breaker. Black wire is ground, check that also.

You see the wire colors for seat motors, those are voltage and ground, depending on which way the motor is moving.

The picture is too dark. Usually the power windows, all of them, are protected by a 25 or 30 amp circuit breaker. It is usually found in the instrument panel fuse block, under the dash on the driver's side. The circuit breaker is a matchbook size "fuse", usually silver colored. A circuit breaker automatically resets if it gets tripped by like a short.

If you pull off the master switch, the driver's side switch, you should have one hot wire with key on. The power wire and the ground for the windows are both in the driver's master switch. This is where you begin testing the power windows if none are working. Check for a hot wire, and check the ground wire- use a multi-meter.

Verify your wiring on the switch to make sure that you stripped them to the correct length and that they are fully inserted and tightened down. Also check that you put the correct wire in the correct terminal. The terminal marked HOT will have the either the 120 volt power coming from the breaker or the 120 volt switch leg going to the light fixture, depending on which of your 3-way switches is fed from the breaker. The terminals marked 1-pole and 3-way should have your traveler wires connected to them. Check the switch that you did not replace to see which two wires were used as the travelers, they will be the ones on the screws of the same color. The odd colored screw is the hot or switch leg, depending on which end of the circuit it is on (on the breaker side, it is the hot wire, on the light fixture side of the circuit, it is the switch leg.)

This thermostat is a DPST (Double Pole Single Throw) type meaning it will switch BOTH pairs of wires either ON or OFF. It is a type used primarily for 220 - 240 volt circuits and can switch up to 22 amps of load current. Most heaters will provide a wattage rating and some also provide a current rating as well. Since most electric heat circuits are connected to a 2 pole 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker (or fuses) via #12 copper wires it should work well. If connected to a circuit greater than 20 amps - as long as the heaters connected to the circuit do not draw more than 22 amps will also work fine.

If all is well so far, the continue. The thermostat should have 4 wires. Two of one color, two of another (black and red are common colors). One color group will be the LINE (powered) side, and the other group is the LOAD (heater) side. You should verify WHICH color group is which for best results. The switch will open and close a connection between the LINE wires and the LOAD wires.

The thermostat should be installed in an electrical switch box located on an interior wall at about 5 feet high and not above any heater or heat source. Do not locate it behind a door that swings open, etc. The box should be supplied by a circuit from the electrical panel that will connect to the LINE side color group wires *and* a circuit that will extend from the thermostat's LOAD color group wires to the heater's wire connections / terminals.

If running common #12/2 (for a 20 amp circuit breaker) or #14/2 (for a 15 amp circuit breaker) romex cable from the panel will have the Black and White wires connected to the thermostat's LINE wires and the Black and White wires in the #12/2 or #14/2 romex cable from the heater will be connected to the thermostat's LOAD wires. The ground wires will connect to each other AND a short length of the same size wire should be run from this same point to each: the ground terminal screw of the thermostat and (if using a metal electrical box) to the electrical switch box with a separately purchased green ground screw designed specifically for this purpose. Plastic boxes are not grounded.

Leave a comment if you have other questions & good luck!

Is this new installation?
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Inside-Main-Breaker-Box-12.jpg

Gene
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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Wall mount. Cut the power to the switch by tripping the breaker at the "fuse box". You will need help to see what breaker controls that lighting circuit.
Get new switch,remove old switch from wall mount and note the color coding of the wires.
There will be screws that attach the power wires to the switch and
wires that go to the fan.Power wires are one black and one white. The other wire is a green ground wire.
Remove the wires,one at a time and connect to the switch,IF there is enough wire length to do so.You will need pliers to yank the wires out.
The stripped,bare wire at the end should go on the new fan switch so when you tighten the wire end,the wire end tightens onto the terminal clockwise.

If the stripped end is broken off,strip another 3/4" of wire and wrap the wire around the terminal,clockwise.

You MAY test the switch B-4 you put it back into the wall.Be careful of the "hot" black wire.

Click the circuit breaker back off and install into the wall box.

Copy following link for wiring 3-way switches (where 2 switches control same lights)
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#3-way

Each 3-way switch has 3 screws (plug green ground screw)
Two screws are 1 color usually brass, and other screw is different color usually dark.
The dark screw is common screw.

There are two basic wiring diagrams: Line-side/Load-side with neutral wire. And Line-side/Load-side without neutral wire.
Open link above and scroll down to see both wiring diagrams.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

It is unclear what pilot-light-switch is supposed to turn on-and-off.

Option A) pilot-light-switch is going to turn GFCI on-and-off
Option B) pilot-light-switch is getting power from existing GFCI circuit, and switch controls another Load (light, fan or motor) located elsewhere.

Add a comment at any point.
Bare copper wire always connects to green screw.

1) I have a Cooper pilot-light-switch in my office.
Black Hot wire from breaker always connects to dark-colored screw(s).
White Neutral wire from breaker box connects to silver-colored screw
Wire going to Load (light, fan, motor) connects to brass colored screw.

2) Two things happen when pilot-light-switch turns ON:
a) Pilot light turns on. This circuit is powered by black Hot wire, and circuit is complete with white Neutral.
b) Brass screw that had no power, is now powered.

The GFCI:
Hot from breaker always connects to brass-colored Line screw
Neutral from breaker connects to silver-colored screw that is opposite Line screw.
If other switches and plugs are going to be protected by GFCI, they connect to brass Load screw and to silver screw that is opposite Load screw


Option A) You want pilot-light-switch to turn on GFCI receptacle.
a) Wire pilot-light-switch as described above
b) Black wire from GFCI line-screw connects to brass screw on pilot-light-switch.
c) White wire from GFCI silver-screw-opposite-line-screw connects to any white Neutral.

Option B) Pilot-light-switch is getting power from GFCI receptacle AND you want pilot light switch protected by GFCI.
a) Black wire on pilot-light dark screw connects to Load screw on GFCI
b) White wire on pilot-light silver connects to silver screw on GFCI that is opposite Load screw

Option C) same as option B except pilot-light-switch is NOT protected by GFCI.
a) Black wire on pilot-light dark screw connects to Line screw on GFCI or any Hot wire
b) White wire on pilot-light silver connects to silver screw on GFCI that is opposite Load screw or to any Neutral wire

Three way switch diagram: Three-way switch has 3 screws



Before replacing old 3-way switch, mark the wire connected to dark-colored screw
Connect that wire to dark-colored screw on new switch.

If you are confused which wire goes to dark-colored screw
Mark the 2 black wires and the red wire.
You are not going to do anything with the white wire.
Connect blacks and red to any screw, turn on power, and try BOTH switches
Keep trying until correct combination is discovered
Both switches must work in all possible up-down positions before wiring is correct
Incorrect wiring will not blow circuit breaker, the circuit just doesn't work until wires are right.

Four way switch is added to 3-way circuit

Well colors can vary, but basically bare copper or green are grounds, white is the neutral wire (but it is powered in a switch loop, and when used in a switch loop it is taped with a piece of electrical tape to show it is powered). Black, red, blue, brown, and pretty much any other color except green and white can be a power wire (black red and blue are the most common colors used).