CM 7000 will not boot up

Although replacing every aluminum electrolytic in sight is likely to bring a CM-7000 back to life, in my experience the only capacitors that have failed, in four different units, have been

E5, E6 on main board -- one unit
C12 on power supply -- three units

Always start with power. Is the computer getting the correct amount of power?

Power supply should be checked to see if the three main voltages are okay. 3.3 Volt, 5 Volts, and 12 Volts, (DC), power rails.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html

1) If ALL of the LED lights were on at once they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts.

3) A typical Processor can use from 51 to 125 Watts. Just depends on what Processor it is.


Power Supply's three main voltages check out? Check the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard,

http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KN6_-8fYHo0

(Starts at 0:04)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/How-to-Identify-Japanese-Electrolytic-Capacitors/595

The capacitors used on the motherboard are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors,

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Leaded/_/N-75hqw/

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

E1 is a 100 uF 16 VDC capacitor. I have been repairing these units lately and have experienced some of the same symptoms (LED goes red but doesn't transition to green after 30 seconds like it should). I have been able to repair some of these units. Make sure the power supply is working properly before spending significant time on the D2A board. The power supply is responsible for supplying 12, 5, and 3.3 VDC to the D2A board. A defective PS will measure 14.5 instead of 12, 6 instead of 5, and 2.9 instead of 3.3. The AC ripple should be about 5 mV on the 3.3 and the 5 volt supplies when loaded. The 12 volt can be as high as 50 mV on a good PS. The culprits are C12 (1000uf) and C10 (470 uf) which are the filter capacitors for the 3.3 and 5V outputs respectively. C12, the capacitor for the 3.3 V output is especially critical because it is used to feed the voltage regulator and overvoltage shutdown circuit. D7 is a hot part and can also fail sometimes. I have repaired 50% of my units just by changing these capacitors. I still have units where the D2A board is bad with a known good power supply. If anyone has more info on the D2A (like a schematic) please pass it along

This is a common problem. There are several capacitors on the power supply and logic board that are bad. Replacement of these parts has restore all units that I have looked at.

On the power supply I would replace at a minimum:
C14 - 4.7ufd 50v UPW1H4R7MDD
C4 - 1ufd 50v UPW1H010MDD
C8 - 100ufd 25v UHE1E101MED
C10 - 470ufd 16v UHE1C471MPD
C12 - 1000ufd 10v UHE1A102MPD

There are 4 others in the supply that were not grossly bad.
C1 - 22ufd 400v EEU-EE2G220
C7 - 220ufd 25v UHE1E221MPD
C11 - Same as C10
C13 - Same as C10

Logic board:
E5 - 33uf 35v EEU-FM1A471
E6 - Same as E5

Part Numbers of replacement caps are Nichicon or Panasonic.

Note: Caps on the logic board are extremely hard to replace due to the internal ground plane.

Contact me if this is beyond your skills for possible repair.

This is a common problem. There are several capacitors on the power supply and logic board that are bad. Replacement of these parts has restore all units that I have looked at.

On the power supply I would replace at a minimum:
C14 - 4.7ufd 50v UPW1H4R7MDD
C4 - 1ufd 50v UPW1H010MDD
C8 - 100ufd 25v UHE1E101MED
C10 - 470ufd 16v UHE1C471MPD
C12 - 1000ufd 10v UHE1A102MPD

There are 4 others in the supply that were not grossly bad.
C1 - 22ufd 400v EEU-EE2G220
C7 - 220ufd 25v UHE1E221MPD
C11 - Same as C10
C13 - Same as C10

Logic board:
E5 - 33uf 35v EEU-FM1A471
E6 - Same as E5

Part Numbers of replacement caps are Nichicon or Panasonic.

Note: Caps on the logic board are extremely hard to replace due to the internal ground plane.

Contact me if this is beyond your skills for possible repair.

First look at the indicator lamp on the front left side.
If it is:
off - check the power cord is plugged into a working outlet.
Amber - the unit is in standby, press the on button (left most), it should turn green
Green - the unit is in operate mode, check the antenna and cable connection.
Red - when power is applied, it will be red for up to 30 seconds. If it remains red, the unit is defective. This is a common problem due to several capacitors on the power supply and logic board that have gone bad. The unit is repairable by replacing these capacitors.

Three main things can cause this.

1) Inside of computer is dirty, as well as the inside of the Power Supply.

Dirt, dust, etc, can cause the cooling components capacity to drop tremendously.
If the Processor overheats, it is turned off. (BIOS turns it off)

This is a Fail Safe feature that is built-in, to keep the Processor from burning up. (Literally)

A non- working Processor fan, or one that works intermittently, or doesn't spin as fast as it's supposed to, will also cause the Processor to overheat.

The major cause of computer failure, is that the computer, (And Power Supply) is dirty inside.

Solution is to have the computer unplugged from power, computer case open, use a can of compressed air for computers, and clean the inside of the computer, PLUS the inside of the Power Supply.

(Read about Anti-Static precautions below, BEFORE you do)

2) Power Supply is bad. Weak voltage power rail, brought about by failing components inside the Power Supply.

Test the Power Supply for voltages.
Computer power supply's, supply three main voltages.
A) 3.3 Volts
B) 5 Volts
C) 12 Volts

[Orange insulated wires are 3.3 Volt.
Red wires are 5 Volt.
Yellow wires are 12 Volt.
ANY Black wire is a Ground wire]

This test can be done with an inexpensive multimeter, or a Power Supply Tester.

The Positive (Red) probe lead of the multimeter, is connected to the power wire to be tested.
The Negative (Black) probe lead is touched to any Ground wire.

The 12 Volt power can be 11 to 13 Volts. Below 11 Volts it's time to replace the Power Supply.

This is one example of an inexpensive, easy to use Power Supply Tester,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5250576&CatId=5471

Or, a compatible, KNOWN to be good power supply, can be substituted, and used for a test unit.

3) Electrolytic Capacitors are failing on the motherboard.
Specifically, the ones used in the motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit.

One of the jobs the Voltage Regulator Circuit does, is to regulate voltage for the Processor.
A Processor must have a Steady, Clean, supply of voltage, and the voltage MUST be kept within a certain range.

This range, or Tolerance Zone, is VERY small.
Too little voltage the Processor turns off.
(No Processor operating, No computer)

Look for obvious signs of capacitor, (Electrolytic Capacitor) failure.

http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

(Takes a couple of seconds before the page fully loads)

This is what happens when Electrolytic Capacitors are failing, in the motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KN6_-8fYHo0

(Starts at 0:04)

Solution is to replace failing, or failed Electrolytic Capacitors, or replace the motherboard.

To summarize:

1) Check to see if the computer is dirty. If so, unplug from power, open the computer case, use a can, or two of compressed air for computers.

2) Visually inspect for bad capacitors.
(BEFORE reaching inside a computer, have the computer unplugged from power. Observe Anti-Static precautions.

Your body carries Static electricity.
Static WILL fry out {Short Circuit} the hardware components inside a computer.

Work on a table. Computer Unplugged from power. Computer case open, TOUCH the metal frame to relieve your body of Static.

SHOULD you get up, walk away, then return, TOUCH the metal frame again)

3) Test the voltages of the power supply, or use a KNOWN to be good, compatible power supply for a test.

NOTE*
The Power Supply may light lights, and spin fans. It may even sound as though the Harddrive is running.
However if the Power Supply has a weak voltage power rail, there won't be enough power to turn the Processor on.

A) All the lights use less than 1 Watt of power.
B) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts.

C) A typical Processor can use anywhere from 51 to 125 Watts. Depends on what Processor it is.

No Processor operating, the Harddrive just sits there, and spins the Platters inside.

There is no Processor to find the boot sector located on the Harddrive.
That's why it sounds like the Harddrive is operating, but in reality it isn't.

Read this to know how a Harddrive is made up, and about the Platters I referenced to above,

http://computer.howstuffworks.com/hard-disk.htm

Most likely bad capacitors in the power supply. I have fixed several including my own. See avsforum CECB thread for more info

the power supply could be the problem 9 volts means 9 volts /// 12 volts means 12 volts check them first if the voltage is low replace unit

Check the power supply circuit. Typical voltage at B+ is 105V. Chances are that it is much lower. Check (as you say), capacitors on the primary circuit of the SMPS. Better still, replace all low voltage capacitors within the power supply.