I have a problem with pump kicks back and kicks on every 15 seconds no leaking in the latrines and showers everything is ok whats the problem ...we have generatos where in not 60 hertz always is like 56 or 57 what is the problem please explain to me thanks best regards.
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First you must ask your self, well water or city water? Well Water , first turn all plumbing off, no sinks showers dish washers running ext. Second sit and wait by the pressure tank, watch the gage if it drops and the well pump kicks on you have a leak.When doing this it make take a while of sitting their and watching depending on how small the leak is. City Water First thing turn all plumbing off, no sinks showers dish washers running ext. second watch the water meter, if it moves then u have a leak, the smaller the leak the less it will move and the longer you will have to sit and watch.
Toilets have fill valves that fill the tank up after each flush, and a flapper that allows the water to drain. these parts go bad over time and should be checked once a year you insure you aren't wasting water and money.
Does the motor turn it self off after a couple of minutes of no pumping?= ran out of water. If there is water up to the pump and still no water, check filter/s ( if there is any). Undo V band and check pump internals, impeller may be broken from shaft? When putting back together tap V band with block off wood or back of screw driver evenly as you do up the clamp to stop it distorting
Paul. Is it only the shower that the pump cuts out? i dont think we have these pumps in AU. Would bet that its a flow issue. Either remove the water saving device in the shower, if there is one. Pr turn another tap on just a dribble when you start the shower? We have these issues with "smart"? controllers that think there is a leak
Pressure is bleeding back through the pump or system to the tank or well or where ever the water is coming from. Should be some sort of one way valve to keep water from going back to the source, mounted somewhere so that once pressure is pumped up, it will hold that pressure in the part of the system that has the pressure switch that controls the pump.
That or you have a leak where you can't see it. (Actually you do, it is just internal and not leaking outside the pipes!)
Does your system equipped with pressure tank (pneumatic tank)? If it has, maybe it's already filled with water due to some pinhole leaks. Drain the tank and see what will happen.
First check with a pressure gauge to see that the pressure is, indeed, dropping. Then, if it is possible, turn off the outlet valve to isolate the pump.
If pressure is still dropping, there is probably a check valve on the inlet of the pump that prevents water from the high pressure side from leaking back to the inlet piping side.
To test this, let the pump run and pressurize the house and immediately close the valve for the incoming water. If the pressure holds, then open the inlet valve and see if the pressure drops. If it drops, the inlet check valve has to be replaced (or cleaned).
Gary
If it is starting and stopping, it most likely does have some type of leak. The check vavlve is normally installed on the suction side of the pump, and sometimes instead of a check vavlve or in addition to, there is a foot valve. A foot valve is just a check valve (usually with a screen) at the end of the line in the bottom of the cistern. If you have much suction lift, and the check valve leaks (or any leak in the suction piping) then the water will drop back into the cistern. This will also cause the discharge side of the pump system to drop in pressure, causing the pump to restart. You mentioned removeing the pressure tank, that tank keeps the pump from short cycling when you have low demand on the system. If the pump is higher than the cistern, and you don't see a check valve between cistern and pump then you most likely have a foot vavle in the cistern. Hopefully it's accessable by removing the pipe.
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