I have a holden astra CD 2000. the engine light comes on and I lose power, somes when its cold, sometimes randomly during the day but always been I do a quick exceleration. I have taken the car to seperate dealerships who have each charged me thousands of dollars and no one has been able to actually fix the problem!! Any suggestions would be welcome.

20 YEAR OLD CAR ,AND ALL VERY COMMON THEY FAIL OLD
NO MILES TOLD ON CAR OR KM ODOMETER.
ABS FAILS OR BRAKES, FAIL SO WILL TRACTION CONTROL
NO ENGINE TOLD , NO TRANSMISSION TOLD IS CAR 2WD?
IS THIS A MANUAL STICK SHIFTED TRANSMISSION (m/t)
?????

1. FORGET EXPENSES. WE DIAGNOSIS IT AND WHAT WILL BE ,WILL BE.AND YOUR CHOICE, NEVER OURS. WE ARE USA SO COSTS HERE NOT THE SAME DOWN UNDER,.

2ND GEAR DEAD.
OK, SO IF This car has shift cable we'd look every inch of it for bad cable rusted to deathh or frayed or worse.
if no cable shifter then we call that direct-shift lever to the box. top.
so next is MC, slave for the clutch pedal
above pedal on engine bay side is MC, and its DOT3? reservoir
if the level is low or gone and MC and SLAVE both leak fluid
then the clutch pedal is now dead or weak.
mc is master cylinder for clutch, slave moves the clutch lever on the BELL.
saves love to leak and are bad. the leak falls to the ground unseen
and mostly only leaks moving so the leak no seen on garage floor.

any 20 year old car will be problematic, and costly repairs not DIY done., very costly parts and labor.
the brakes are bad and now the clutch
buy your own scan tool and it pays you cash ever time it is used
and solves a problem. called ROI, ,econ101 ways;.
ABS failing is first caused by bad brakes, and never self repairs only gets worse.
the clutch on some astra G F or others have cable drive.
and 20 years of endless shifting causes it to fail..
all very normal this old, as are brakes and MC and slave.
some astras have a CLUTCH COAX slave , must pull tranny to get it out..
a tech looks at the car and in 5min hood up, sees all that.

1. cable shift YES, ? AND AND A TRAIN WRECK .
2. mc EMPTY FLUID DRY, OOPS BELOW LEAKS.
3. SEE OMG, NO SLAVE INSITE IT'S COAX. OR CHEERS TO YOU
4. SLAVE IS 2 SCREWS ON BELL AND OFF IT COMES.

Never run an engine unnecessarily when the oil light is on and especially never put the engine under load - never drive the car!

Oil light switches do become faulty sometimes and it is usually just as easy and doesn't cost very much to replace the switch as to have an oil pressure test carried out.

Most likely the oil pressure is low and if it was ok before the oil change it is possible the oil pressure relief valve is stuck open.

Hi Dave You can google castrol for advise on recommended oils and coolant for your vehicle. I have always used 15/40 engine oil and green coolant from Holden. Hope this is of some help.
Good luck.

engine warning lights are also reporters for transmission faults
run the fault codes and check for problem over drive servo/solenoid or TCM problem

Was it running good before it stopped? Does the engine crank when you turn the key?

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Hi there, the light should have clips or screws to hold the cover on, once off just pull the bulb out, it should be a wedge bulb, hope this helps

remove inside black plastic triangle pieces under carpet or service flap light assembly then comes out and you now can get globes out
or some have plastic clips on side of globe holder assembly that you push out while pulling on globe holder assembly depends on what assembly you have

I'm having same problem on my 2000 model rodeo 4wd 3.2L V6. Other day check engine light came on. I checked engine bay nothing abnormal, or power loss. Next day light was gone. 2 days later driving, a sudden loss of power and light came up. After idling for a couple of minutes, drove off with light still on but all power back. 1 hour later of faultless driving loss of power for a minute or so. Engine temp normal. Had break for 1/2 hour and set off for last hour of journey without fault except check engine light still on. Following dayon startup light went out???
Seeking help from experts.