Maytag cwe5800ace double oven. Six years old. Top oven stopped working, no heat no broil. I swapped the element with the lower oven to test, and the element worked fine, but the lower element wouldn't

your Maytag range has only a single heating element located at the top of the oven, it is likely a "broil" element, which is used primarily for cooking food close to the top of the oven. The lower heating element, which is typically used for baking and roasting, may be hidden beneath the oven floor or located at the bottom of the oven.
If your oven is not getting very hot, it is possible that the broil element is malfunctioning and needs to be replaced. However, if the oven is not heating evenly or is not getting hot enough to cook food properly, it may be a more complex issue related to the temperature sensor, the control board, or other components.
To diagnose and repair the issue, it is recommended to have the range serviced by a qualified technician, who can properly identify the model and locate the faulty component. The model number of your range can typically be found on a label inside the oven door, on the back of the range, or on a storage drawer beneath the oven.

Could be in the oven switch , get a voltmeter and trace it through till you find the fault , it could cost a fortune if you just keep throwing parts at it . that is not the way to repair things , find the fault first .

Was the original broil element broken or burnt?
Did you reuse the original spacers to ensure the new element is not touching the oven interior?
1) To determine if the broil element has burned out, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the broil element does not have continuity, replace it. (Perform this test, even on a brand new element).
2) If element tests OK, then reinstall, and test continuity of the element wires themselves.
It really comes down to these two items. Element or wires.

Look at the wiring diagram... The manual reset Thermal Limiter Switch (part number 74008715), located on the lower rear insulation retainer can keep both elements from working, not one at a time... I would inspect the back of the bake relay for a burnt/failing solder joint. Swapping the BAKE and BROIL leads is an acceptable test, but if you put the bake leads on the broil and still get no heat: check the control relay. If the broil leads will not heat the bake element, you have a bad element or bad connection. Be sure to do all testing of the elements with at least one wire detached so as not to red a back circuit.

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

I had this problem a year ago (both elements worked in top oven but only broil element worked in the lower of the dual ovens). I swapped elements around but the problem was still the bottom element bottom oven.

So I called the repairman. He replaced the relay board (Part #AP2127301) for the lower oven, and it worked again. Yippee.

But now a year later, I have the exact same problem. Lower element on lower oven is not working (Frigidaire you have got to be kidding)!

However this time I decided to take a look at the relay board myself, to at least save the expense of the repairman. I looked closely at the board and thought I saw a cold solder joint on relay K4. But just to be safe I touched up all the connections on all the relays with flux and a soldering iron.

Works perfectly again !!

Please if you try this, disconnect the power first. In fact if I had to tell you that, then just call somebody.

You are probably going to find the lower heating element has failed. Your symptoms describe that failure exactly.

Reply back if you want instruction as to how to repair.

The control switch may be bad on it. If there are 2 elements on the top, they both are not bad at the same time.Check to see if the wires have not burned off the control switch first. Check to see if your breakers are O.K. Turn them both(maybe 3) off and then reset.

I replaced the relay board for the top oven (the one with the transformer) and it works properly now. My issue was only for the top oven so you probably have to replace both relay boards since both ovens have only the top element working.

318022002 is the part number for the relay board with transformer
318022001 is the part number for the relay board without transformer

Yes the one without the transformer is more expensive for some reason.

The boards are on the top of the oven, I was able to pull out the oven about 75% of the way out of the cabinet and easily get to the boards. Just unplugged the connections and plugged them into the new board.

To get the oven out there are two small screws that go into brackets inside the top oven door. Highly recommend taking the doors off the oven to pull it out, much easier to work with.

NOTE: On my old board I noticed one solder joint that was burned out and I since I already had the new board I just replaced but you might want to check that first and see if just a solder fix gets you working again before you spend $$ on a new board.

these ovens have a fuse in them called a tco thermal cut out switch if the ovens over heat for a varity of reasons it cuts the power and must be replaced most are on the back of the ovens and are metel disc with two wires on them