Brass cotter pins an plastic catch tubes???? Kenmore washer 110.92597210

check your motor coupling, it is between the motor and transmission,made of rubber and plastic, if it is not broken and you heard a lot of screaching ,i would say it is your basket drive tube-could have gotten worn down on the bottom around the clutch brake area! mine sheared off the brass t post on the bottom of the drive tube,which my clip holding on the brake release arm fell off ,arm fell off and thus no spin,i bought a used basket drive tube installed it with a new clutch and is working fine now! a lot of work though to replace it

when you replaced the clutch did you look at the bottom of your basket drive tube to see if it was worn down,also the white plastic brake release arm could have the 2 little lineup pins broken off, or your drive block could be worn out,it is under your agitator,,,,,i found out on my machine that the bottom of the basket drive tube has a brass t post and the thrust washer had worn it off completely,the clip that holds the brake release arm fell off and broke those 2 little fingers off the arm,,,,,,i had to buy a used basket drive tube installed it with a new clutch and now the spin cycle works fine !! give it a good look at

The plastic shaft on the knobs split and loosen. I have the solution for that, but I need one metal insert that goes over the gas valve shaft and into the knob. For those that have the split knobs. This a bit of work but it works great. Remove the two screws from the back of each knob. Go to a hardware store and find the thin brass tubing that most have. Pick the tube that just about fits over the plastic shaft. It will fit over the tip but will not slide down the shaft all the way. Now pick a brass washer that the tube almost fits into. (You have to do a bit of tooling on both the washer and the plastic shafts. What you will end up with is a brass tube soldered to the washer that fits over the plastic shaft and is screwed to the metal insert in the knob from the inside. First take the tube and file across the top of the tube to make teeth. Now slide the cutter tube down each shaft while rotating it. This cuts the shaft to exactley fit the tube. Drill the washer to also exactly fit tube and cut or file the washer to fit into the knob at the bottom of the shaft. Cut the tubes to length, press fit them into each washer (this should be very tight and solder each washer to the tubes. Place the soldered unit on to the plastic shaft of the knob. Drill two number 4/40 size screw holes into the washer. One on each side of the shaft. Just start the drill into the metal insert. Do not drill through now. Remove the metal insert. (take a small screw driver and put it into the space on either side of the metal part of the knob. Not between the metal and the plastic knob though. that may break the plastic. The metal insert comes out fairly easy. Once it is out finish drilling the holes with a 4/40 tap drill. Tap the drilled hole with a 4/40 tap to make threads. Screw the tube and washer assembly to the metal insert. The screws should be flush with the back of the metal insert. Place the metal insert back in the knob. You now have a sleeved knob that will never break again. This is how it should have been made in the first place. I did this in a few hours on a Sunday afternoon. The parts including the 4/40 drill and tape were about $13. It is not as hard as it reads. LG has a quality issue, but does not want to step up to it.

A good operating pump will fill the tubes in 2 seconds. Sometimes the spring loaded check ball in the pump assembly (brass tube) gets stuck. It can be unstuck by disasdsembly or high pressure air application.Unplug unit before opening the top or any inspection. The brass tube unscrews from the angle fitting, then release the rubber mount by depressing the white tab and slide it out. Note slowly and carefully the positions of springs, ball, plastic plunger and rubber washers.Look closely at the holder for the brass tube and you will see that it releases with a push and turn. The white plastic spring retainer in the brass tube unscrews with small forseps or two toothpicks. That spring should be weak and you should just be able to blow a little air by mouth (one way) through the tube if assembled correctly. I use a toothpick to push the stuck plastic valve out and scrape the calcified deposits off..

The pin is a shipping pin and serves no purpose after the machine is set up. These machines comes with a plastic strap through the back panel to hold components in place for shipping. There are plastic cups that the pins fall into after the strap is pulled.
Ignore the pin.
Your no spin problem is a stripped out direct drive coupling between the motor and transmission.
It is a easy fix.
Use the attached video as reference to change out the part.

Never run plastic tubing through a wall! If copper is already there, then leave it, and solder the pinhole leak back up.

If the leak is outside of the wall, then cut off the tubing that includes the pinhole, and buy a brass ferrule coupling for 1/4 inch copper to copper. Make sure that it includes a brass barrel (it may come with 2, one for each side. If not, they are sold separately as well.). Install the coupling with ferrule into one side of the coupling.

Push the barrel into the plastic tubing, and install with ferrule just like you installed the copper tubing.

Sometimes you can get a plastic ferrule for the plastic line side of the coupling.

ok the only way i can help now is start fro the begging ok,,check point 1..im taking that unit is apart..ok...first you took motor mount plate off and change couple,,now you remove a silver gaurd over the clutch brake assm,,next is a brass u shaped clip..now you have the clutch brake asss..theres a c shape pin holding the clutch to the top of the gearcase..remove now all you have is the gearcase,,put the new one back together in reverse order..where good there ok..now if you already removed the to inner basket withblock drive..you can pull the drivebasket out,,(spintube)...now note this when putting back make sure you drivebasket goes up first and all the way,,next push your transmissin and clutch assmm,,up nice and smooth make sure that the brake spring which is inside the clutch doesnt hit the plastic cam on the bottom of the drivebasket..now replace you three boltsin the transmission...go back up too the top of the basket drive and put your drive block back now on top the basket drive theres to little pins and on the drive block theres 2 groves knock your driveblock down slowly and make the block go down through the pertruding pins of basketdrive,,until you get a snug fit,,now put your basket back,,,tightn down spanner nut,,,onthejob..keep me posted

this could be the water level switch or the small flexible plastic tube that goes from the water level switch to the side of the tub. this tube may have worked loose if the washer is vibrating too much.

The clear plastic tube runs from the pressure switch to the air dome on the lower right-hand side of the wash tub. If the air dome end of the hose were loose, water would begin to spill out of the bottom of the washer when the level in the tub reaches only a few inches.

If the washer is filling the tub completely, but your pressure switch is not shutting the water off, you will need to confirm you have a good electrical connection, and that you do not have a small hole in the air hose somewhere. It is possible for the air hose to develop leaks where it contacts the washer casing and begins to chafe. If your electrical connections to the pressure switch are secure, trace the wires back to the timer and make sure you have good continuity. There should be a wiring diagram located under the operator console. Please refer to the following link for instructions on how to access the inside of your washing machine:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

I know the instructions are for replacing a motor coupling, but the steps are still the same for opening the console and removing the outside washer casing. Please let me know, if you require further assistance. If you don't get anywhere with this advice, please post back with your complete model number. It may help me further with diagnosing your problem. I hope this provides you with a solution.

PS I apologize for taking so long getting back to you.

oh yea sounds like there still in there alright!!!, tip the unit back if possible and give a look underneath, you see2 or 3( depending on model) plastic tubes approx 2in long mounted to the under carriage around the base. They are there for the sole purpose of "catching" the cotter pins after pulling the rip cord. there should be a cotter pin in each of the tubes. if you see any empty ones look directly above it and youll find the pin, you may have to manually grab the cotter pin to release it withe a set of needle nose pliers or something but the definitely need to be removed.