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if the wear is on the inside of the tread ---wheel bearings , failed suspension bush,arm
if it is on the outside of the tire tread ,-- bent lower control arm
if it is patchy around the tire ---failed shocky
it is appears as if the tread is feathered towards one side of the tread--- wheel alignment
Tack it to an accredited suspension specialist shop for a proper examination and a rear wheel alignment
It appears that the tow operator was not competent and has bent you suspension during the tow operation. Take it top an accredited suspension shop as it may only require a new suspension part and a rear wheel aligment to fix it.
may have broken the switch for the release in the rear or jammed the mechanism..look for the mechanism to be misaligned or bent..adjust as needed..also look at the trunk fuse..
The set screws in the center of the axle are there to keep the axle centered in the frame. Only the right wheel is powered which also means only the right wheel brakes when operating the rear brake. This is because the rear wheels must be able to spin independently when turning because the outside wheel will move faster. Unfortunately no one builds differentials at this price.
If you have wheel wobble you need to determine if the axle is bent or the wheel is not true. Prop up the rear of the bike on a stand and remove the problematic wheel. Manually pedal the bike and check the axle as it spins. If the axle is wobbling then it is bent and will need to be replaced. If it spins true then the wheel is the culprit.
The axle is relatively inexpensive and can be ordered through a Schwinn dealer. Any bike shop should be able to true a wheel for around $15-$20.
You either dropped your key and bent the teeth or your wheel is turned so far its locked very, very hard. Try this with caution. Turn the wheel even farther, almost like your trying to break the wheel in the same turned direction the wheels are now and then while holding the wheel with all your strength in that direction try to turn the key again!
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