Honda 8hp g300 FR 700 rototiller no spark-replaced coil-no spark--Was reading around 5K ohms with old coil, bought new, replaced and condenser reading 19K ohms still no spark

pull out all coils. use an ohm meter to check ohms on all and see if they are different

Hi im guessing your year to be 1981 or 1982.First if you have not done so make sure your coil is grounded.Next disconnect your kill switch.Next check the primary side of the coil .3 to .5 ohms check the secondary side of the coil 5k to 7k ohms with out the spark plug cap.While your at it check for spark with out the cap.Make sure your kicking it fast as motoplats do not spark below 700 rpm.If all else fails you have a few choices .Vance smith can rebuild yours for under 200.00 usally.You can go with a pvl ignition for around 500.00.Also make sure your crank bearings are tight and your mag side crank seal is not leaking if you smell fuel in the mag cover you need to replace your crank seal good luck

well sure you can, allthough if you have allready replaced the coil and plug , i can't see why you'd need to , it's the last thing there is to replace , but if youd like to anyway , just ground the black lead of volt meter anywhere on engine thats not painted or rusty , hold red lead on - side of coil (its the one with half the battery voltage on it) and turn engine over slow as possible you should see the volts rise and fall as it turns over , if not the ign module is not working
also i question why does this have a condenser if it has electronic ign ? cant say id ever seen that before .

the fly wheel is touche you need no more than 5 thousands clearance between the
fly wheel and the coil for the best spark

now on the other hand if you have points on this unit its best to put in new points
and condenser and set the points the same settings as the coil

this will get spark for you

hope this helps you
good luck
bob

You didn't state the year, make, model or engine. So I will guess it is a 4 cylinder car... late 80s or early 90s. If the coil is external ( not under the distributor cap ) You should check for spark from the coil to ground. If there is spark, that would mean there is spark going into the distributor but not coming out. That would indicate a bad distributor cap or rotor. If the coil is under the distributor cap, then you will have to remove the distributor cap. Inspect the underside of the distributor cap, look for burnt terminals, cracks or tracking. Next inspect the rotor, it requires removal of a screw through the side of the rotor into the distributor shaft. You might have to rotate the engine to access the screw. Beyond that there are three sensors and an ignitor in the distributor, some parts stores have the equiptment neccesary to test the ignitor. A new ignitor is around $80. If you have a multimeter, you can check for resistance to the three sensors at the 8 pin plug. The ohm reading should be 350-700 ohms across the blue/green wire and the blue/yellow wire, orange/blue wire and the white/blue wire, the solid orange wire and the solid white wire. None of the sensors are available to buy, so if any of these three sensors are bad, you have buy a distributor.. best of luck.

Try the cheapest route first. Have you installed new spark plugs? Spark plug caps are notorious for going bad on this model. Unscrew the caps from the end of the wires and check them with an ohm meter. If they read higher or lower than 5000 ohms, replace the spark plug caps. You might also have a bad coil wire. Unfortunately, the coil and wire are sold together. You could spray some water on the right wire, when it is dark, to see if there is arcing or shorting on the wire. If so, replace the coil and wire. New Honda part if available, a good salvage part It might be just as old or as bad as the one you take off.), or Accel makes some good aftermarket coil sets with wires.

check condition of the magneto,located under the flywheel

If it ran before, I would double check your electrical connections. Its more likely you didn't get a connector pushed all the way together or left off a ground wire. The ignition coil specs are generally 1 ohm or less on the primary (small Wire) side, and 5K-10K ohms on the secondary (spark plug) side. Each side should be tested to ground. Pick-up coils are typically open or really large ohm reading in Megaohms normally and around 100 ohms when the magnet on the flywheel passes by. there is no way to test the CDI box other than putting it on a know running bike or getting a known good CDI and putting it on your bike. Double check that the spark plug cap is secured to the high tension lead as well. Testing the stator is a little more complicated, but a quick way is to close the gap on an old spark plug to about 0.010" and see if there is a week spark. If so, the stator will need to be replaced.

Does this G300 have an oil alert switch??? If so, make sure it is on and verify engine oil level is full. Other wise, the switch will prevent the coil from sparking. If you find that the switch is faulty, you can by-pass it.

Swap the caps around from the rear it the fault changes replace the cap, you can also test the cap with a multi meter it should read around 5k ohms or some of them may be 10K look on the cap..