Dryer works, auto dry doesn't advance - Amana DLE330RAW Electric Dryer

Sounds like you need new timer

-Sounds like the timer motor is not working .
-Check and replace it.

Good Luck

Mai

If it works to begin with and fails afterwards then that can only be them solenoids mounted on the gas assembly. Here is my home video which shows how to check and replace:

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Does the timer advance to the end or does it stop advancing in the middle of the cycle?
If the unit does advance to the end on timed but it won't advance on auto, that means your cycling thermostat isn't triggering. First, make sure your vent is cleaned and the best way to do that is just run a cycle without the vent hose connected to the back of the dryer to see if things change. If your dryer still won't dry properly, then the cycling thermostat will need to be replaced because it's not cycling properly.

Try it on the timed cycle. If it doesn't advance, then you have a bad timer and the timer will need to be replaced.

The cycling thermostat is mounted to the front of the blower wheel housing.

Here is the timer if it is found bad.
Here is the cycling thermostat if it is bad.
Keep me posted!

Ain't no moisture sensor. This is is not an electronic sensing machine. It uses another method to determine dryness. An orange wire connects to the base of the heating element. The timer motor is driven by power from it in auto dry. The timer motor is VERY slow. Slower than most dryer timer motors.As the clothes get dryer the heat is not needed so the element is turned off by the control thermostat which is mounted next to the skinny white fuse on the blower housing. This allows for the turtle like motor on the timer to advance. Once the clothes get to the point of dryness the heater stays off way longer and the timer motor advances on over to the cool down and carry on over to the end of cycle. So the clothes won't always be dry due to factors like lint buildup in the blower housing, venting to outside and so forth. having said that my mom bought a brand new Kenmore dryer and I set it on 55 minutes timed drying. At the end of that them clothes is still damp. I then set it to auto dry high heat and that usually gets em dry. I think the main probo with this dryer is the thermostat ain't set as high as older models to keep the heat at a moderate temp so that the limits won't blow on models in apts and such. Just a theory.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

If this is one of the electronic models: Clean the sensor strips located inside the drying area. As wet clothes rub against these the control monitors the resistance changes and knows the clothes are still wet therefore it continues to operate. When buildup from dryer sheets and fab softener get on them strips a barrier is formed that repels dampness. Therefore the control does not know the clothes are wet and goes to the end thinking all is Kosher. Clean them sensor strips with Windex and party on!

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Verify that the wrinkle prevent switch is good. If so, the timer is likely the problem. Sometimes the switch contacts inside the timer can be cleaned to restore operation, bit it is a tricky item to disassemble and reassemble.

you could have bad gas coils.if the timer doesn't advance in auto dry most likely you're having heat problems,when the dryer heats and then the heat shuts off then the timer will advance,when the heat comes back on the timer stops,it does this until the clothes are dry.gas coils when starting to fail will work normally until they get hot and then no heat until the coils cool down then they will work again,on time dry the timer just keeps counting down until the time runs out no matter what's happening to the dryer.i've seen the coils fail after the first 10 minutes and other times for 20 to 30 minutes but usually if the load is big and in time dry the clothes will feel warm and you'll need to dry them a second time to get them fully dry,also while you're in ther you should clean out the dryer at least once a year,clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into,vacuum out the cabinet where the motor is and blow out the vent line,if it's a long run i use a leaf blower to blow out the line,remove it from the back of the dryer,stick the leaf blower into the vent line and blow it out,i've blown out birds nest out of some lines, your clothes will dry on time,you won't go through so many parts and you won't have to worry about a dryer fire,the gas coils are on top of the gas valve,remove the two phillips screws,lift off the cover and change out the coils.next time you use the dryer keep an eye on it,after it runs for 20 minutws start checking it,you'll hear a click,then another click and the flame will lite,look into the gas tube and if the flame isn't liting then you have bad gas coils.

See if the timer advances in the timed dry or the auto dry cycles. If the timer advances in timed dry but not in auto dry, then you could have a wire connection failure in the orange wire from the heating element to the timer.

If the timer will not advance in either type of cycle, then I recommend checking the timer part number that you are using.

It sounds like a timer problem since it happens during timed also. Some dryers don't have an actual moisture sensor for auto dry. They work by knowing that as long as the clothes are wet the temp won't go past a certain point. As the clothes dry it trips a thermostat that lets the timer advance. Until this is fixed DON"T trust the timer to shut off the dryer. Sometimes it won't or could leave the dryer running for hours. This has nothing whatsoever to do with fuses. There are no fuses in a dryer. Just high limit thermostats and other devices that will shut off the heat but usually not the motor.