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Switch for the door is sticking or bad. It is usually the same switch that turns the light on when the door is opened. I just checked mine, it was sticking a little. I pushed it in as far as possible and sprayed a tiny amount of WD-40. Pushed in and out several times. No more stick. A very light oil might work also. Otherwise you have a bad switch.
There are two possibilities here. First is if the main light flashes 10 times when the door reverses it is a door sensor problem. Make sure the sensors are pointed at one another and the small light on each one is lit and not flickering. Tweak them a little. If you cannot get both lights to come on you have bad sensors.
Second is if the door is reversing when it hits the floor. This is a problem with the door traveling too far in the down direction. Locate the 'down limit' located on the side of the motor unit and turn it a bit in the opposite direction of the arrow printed on the cover. Some tweaking may be necessary.
To release the door with the rope - pull straight down and then pull the rope in the direction away from the door. This should lock the mechanism in the open position. To release this pull straight down and release.
There are 3 things you need to check. First and most likely problem is a bad wall control. You can eliminate this by removing it from the wall and then removing one of the wires from the back. Just let it hang and see if your problem goes away. The second possibility is a staple that has cut through the insulation of the two wires that go to the wall control. You can eliminate this possibility by removing the wire from terminal #1 on the rear of the motor unit. Just let it hang for a while and see if your problem goes away. The third possibility is a door that is traveling just a tad too far in the down direction. It sometimes hits the floor just hard enough to cause the safety sensor to reverse it to the open position. You can eliminate this possibility by locating the 'down limit' adjustment on the side of the motor unit and turning that control just a bit in the opposite direction of the arrow printed on the cover. No matter what you hear, the odds of a neighbor or an airplane opening your door is almost impossible.
There are some possibilities here. If you have had electrical storms or a power surge it could have damaged the logic board. You would need to pull the board and check for burnt or missing traces on the printed circuit.
Or it could be that the door is stuck open. If that is the case the trolley is most likely jammed against the bolt just in front of the motor unit. You will need to loosen the chain enough to release the tension and then run the opener until the door closes. While the door is closed you need to locate the 'up limit' adjustment on the side of the motor unit. Turn this control 2 full turns in the opposite direction of the arrow printed on the cover. Tighten the chain.
If it isn't either of these possibilities post back with more clues and I'll try some more.
Hello and Welcome to FixYa!
What I understand from your query is that you want to alter the door opening direction If I'm right... Altering the door such that it opens on the counter side is possible. but in most cases, it ruins the working of the device completely.. actually changing the direction causes many things to go wild from the refrigerator light switch. to the refrigerator doors gasket. Also it requires some new holes to be drilled at the other side... That turns the alteration to more complex and tricky.. In a nut shell, I would not suggest to have such changes to your equipment.
Have a nice day,
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The shaft on these garage door motors are not direct drive systems. You'll have to open up the box to see what the actual problem is. I have had stuff like this happen where a gear just slipped out of place.
Here is a link for a parts supplier. I don't know your model but it looks like most of the Liftmaster worm screw gears and drive gears are plastic so it's possible that one of them has cracked.
Door gasket defective, check for proper seal around door (gasket should be flush against frame when door closed). Also other possible cause is that when you close the door to the ref, the freezer pops open just enough to cause ice to build up around door. Check drain plug inside evap area of freezer, and repalce door gaskets.
1 might be your door springs need to be adjusted causing a more than normal load on the opener. Test this by disengaging the opener and open the door by hand. A properly balanced door should only require minimal effort. If you struggle to open it manually then the torsen springs need adjusted. Caution- they are under high torque and unless you have the knowledge and tools required don't attempt this yourself.
2 the open force needs to be adjusted on the opener. there are 4 adjustment screws located on the opener. Two are for travel distance-one for each direction. The other two are for force adjustment, one for each direction.
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