Replaced oven element now oven works all the time even when switched off on the control, what is the next thing that i have to do to put this right?

I have a DACOR double electric oven model ECD230SCH. the top oven lower element went out 1 and 1/2 years ago, but the top element broiler works. Yesterday the bottom oven did the same thing- bottom element not working along with convection. Pulled off doors and cut breaker. Checked thermal switch on top off oven- closed good. Pull out element and Ohm'ed out- good. Now pulled over and out oven top panel to get to the control boards. Found a nice set of schematics for the over control boards and electronics. Sat down and pin-pointed both relays that supply power to upper and lower oven "lower" heating elements. these are on 2 different boards- upper over relays on bigger board on the left with the transformer. Lower oven on the right smaller board. Hardest pain in the rear was just getting the little plastic stand offs to push back through the board to get it off. Finally got it off and inspected board. Low and behold the relay I pin-pointed had a burn/open connection on the solder joint. Re-soldered tested oven and lower oven lower heat element works now! Went to the next board and got that off and same exact problem on the rely for the top oven lower element. Re-solder and test- good!! Put everything together and ran over to 350 on top and lower and back to normal. Wife very happy she did not have to pay a repair man big bucks to swap out the control boards- would have had to replace both.

I have a degree in electronic technology so as a technician for many years did low and high voltage component level repairs. But pretty easy and you can visually see the open solder joint on the back of the board at the relay leg.
Jim B Roseville, CA.

try main switch next.

Could be both elements, control board cause usually both elements don't go out simutaneously, or even just your breaker. check for continuity on elements unplugged of course.... and 220v at plug. also check for burnt wires to elements. some models have a cavity high-limit switch located on back for safety. check for continuity on this if you have such...hope this helps

First things first. The oven element is totally separate to the grill element. The clock has to have a time set for either the top or bottom oven to work, whereas the grill will work without the clock being set.
The control knob for the top oven is the ONLY control that will turn the top oven lights on, the grill does not turn the lights on. ( If you want to watch your toast, you have to turn the top oven switch on to the first setting as well as operating the grill control).
To prevent the grill being operated with the door shut, there is a micro-switch on the door hinge that allows the grill to operate ONLY when the door is down. The grill control also does not illuminate unless the door is down. There are two options on the grill control - right or left. One way is the inner element only and the other is both inner and outer ones.

if it is the b180, the answer (having just fixed this) is really simple.

The coily bit is the oven element - it will have gone. A new one from eBay cost me about 6 quid.
[WHEN IT ARRIVES !]

Turn the power off.
Inside the oven use a philips screwdriver to remove the 4 screws (KEEP THEM !)
You will see a coily thing and a fan.


You unscrew 3 more screws (2 on the left and 1 on the right).
(KEEP THESE TOO!)

now ... bit tricky, have the new one inside the oven and take each wire off one at a time and put it on the new element.

Screw it back on but DONT put the last panel back in.

Turn the oven on maximum for about 2 minutes and see it glow red.

Turn the oven off. Make a cup of tea and have a couple of biscuits while admiring how good you are and waiting for the element to cool down!!!

Put the final panel back in place. Whole thing (including a cup of tea) takes about half an hour.

We had the same thing happen and now they came and said it was the clock that needs to be replaced. They said that controls the oven. Even though clock is on and working the function for turning on the oven is not

It sounds like you have either one of the following things that need attention. First, turn off both breakers to the oven and then back on. Next check the wiring from the receptacle to the back of the oven. Next, check your internal fuses. Most ovens have them. Last, check the wiring to the elements and control switches. Somewhere you have a wire burned off the terminals or control switch. That smell you referred to is probably one of the wires that may be burned.

fault is the circular element found the fan. take back plate off inside oven and element is exposed. often but not always, you can see the damage to the element. element is easy to replace - usually held in by 2 - 7mm nuts on posts from the element base plate

yes the switch that controls the element is bad the oven is a natural thing there is no general promblem bad with the range the oven elements are called cal rod elements its a wire with insulation between it and the out side part if the insulation breaks down then the wire shorts out and its like an electric welder and your right its a scary site to see lol the eye is a bad switch just replace the switch and it will be fine the element you took out is still good plug it in where you took the other one out and see

two things---when you open the oven door do you see a button on the right or left side?if so thats a door switch and if its bad you will get no voltage to the element.the next thing is your hi limit is bad.this is a sensor that monitors the temp of the oven and if its bad you wont get any heat.some hi limits reset themselves others you have to manually reset them.let me know.