I have checked the ohms on the heating element, the thermal cutout and the high limit switch. All are good. What now? Oh yeah and I have 220 power to the receptacle.

Check * Power at outlet, check for 220 volts at power cord, 120 volts out of timer. Check cutout fuse on heating element cover with ohm meter if meter don't move or show ohms it is bad.If bad replace both the cutout & the high limit thermostat the thermostat caused the cutout to blow. I f the power cord has power I would check the cutout first more likely to be the problem if it is good then check timer volts. You could check all thermostats. with ohm meter.Hope this helps. Good Luck

Be sure all controls are set correctly and door closed.

Be sure door switch is good.

Be sure you have 220 volts at power block in dryer.

remove cover and check with voltmeter .

Check heating element with ohmmeter.

Check from heating element to heater box to see if grounded.

Check thermal fuse & thermal cut-off with ohm meter.

Check all thermastats with ohm meter.

Check centrifugal swith, in motor.

Check heating element

Yes you will need 220 V for the heat to turn on

Hello,

A typical reason the thermal cutoff would go out so quickly is because of a poor airflow so the heat is being built up in the dryer instead of being vented out.
What to check is for a blocked/restricted vent,lint built up in the blower housing that is restricting the airflow& or a broken blower wheel that isn't moving the air from the dryer.


GENE

There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back

in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac

No heat at all is usually the thermal fuse, the high limit thermostat, the heating element or you have a bad breaker at the box and are running on 1/2 phase (or 110 only).


With the power OFF and the dryer unplugged. Use and ohms meter (borrow one or pick up a cheap one for around $10-$15) & check the high limit thermostat (right hand side at the base of the housing for the heating element), take the wires off both terminals and check for continuity between the terminal (set the meter of ohms place the black lead on one terminal of the thermostat & the red lead on the other terminal, doesn't matter which, the needle should move, if it doesn't, replace the thermostat).

You can check all the thermostats, fuses, door switch & the heating element this way.

Check the entire exhaust venting sytsem. If lint is inside of the tubing it will cause a restriction shutting the burner off at all times. If the tubing is clear the moister sensor is at fault and needs to be replaced

Check thermistor with ohm meter, make sure you unplug unit first, make sure wires are removed from thermistor or you will read ohms thru the wiring. If thermistor checks ok, the you have a relay board problem. replace power board.

Verify 220 volts at the terminal block where the cord attaches.
Also, 120 volts from each leg to neutral at the same check point.
Check the thermal fuse at the top of the heat element canister for continuity.
Check the high limit switch at the heater terminals for continuity.