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I just got a Power Acoustik TS620 watt amp with the lights on it. I have it hooked up to a 12 inch hi fonics 600w sub. It was hooked up and working for about a day and the next morning when I turned the car on the red "protect" light went on and it now does not work. We checked the fuses and the ground wire and theyre all fine. Please help!
If the amp goes into protect mode, it's likely due to shorted output transistors. To eliminate other possible problems, read through the following page:
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If you sub is dual 4 ohm voice coil, you can get a 4000 watt amp (which will give you 1700 watts RMS at 2ohms). The model number is OW-BAMF40001D. Hope this helps.
Is your gain all the way up? If it done this before, sounds like your over working the amp. Make sure your subs ohm load is capable with the amp load to. If they are 1 ohm and your amp is only 2 ohm stable, it would beat for a lil bit then go into protection mode to. Check your wires too.
According to the specifications, the amp is capable of "tri-mode" operation, that is, running normal speakers on the individual channels while also powering a subwoofer in bridged mode.
Your sub needs to be a minimum of 4ohms and should be relatively efficient. I'd look for a sub that has an RMS power range of from about 75 watts up to a maximum of 250 watts.
The sub connects to the leftmost speaker terminal (positive - right channel) and the rightmost speaker terminal (negative - left channel).
It's not going to be a really loud subwoofer. The power is 360 watts RMS which will be shared by the normal speakers and subwoofer.
i had the same ploblem with my amp then i found out i didnt have a good enough ground. Make sure you groung it to your weel well or some part of the frame. Or you mite be running with a fuse thats pushing to much power i use a 100a fuse 5 gage power cord to power my 1200w xplode and my 2 12" kicker comps. Or if your using two diff kind of subs then you amp is confused in why your asking for 500w on one side and 600w on the other this will also make your amp light come on.
first whats the range in terms of WATTS that your 12" sub can handle in 4 OHMS ? second , lets check the AMP , POWER ACOUSTIK 1800 WATTS , Now thats a lot of power to drive a single 12" sub speaker . your amp is 1800 watts , per channel is around 500 watts , if BRIDGE thats around 1600 watts rms for ONE channel , if your sub can handle that kind of wattage fine , but it will not blow the amp , what it does is shuts down , some kind of protection mode , it will come back on after a minute or so. I suggest to use one channel in stereo mode , or purchase another sub to use the other channel. i hope this helps AJ
For each sub, tie the DVCs in parallel ("+"s together, then "-"s together). This will make the subs look like 2 ohms to the amp. Then, put one sub on each channel of the amp. That will put about 280W rms onto each sub, the max for the amp.
On your amp, there should be a switch (on the side probably) that has "LP", "HP", and "FULL" or "OFF". This is a switch for the low pass/high pass filter. Switch it to "LP" as this will allow only low frequencies to go to your subs, what you want. If you don't have that switch, go to an audio store or online audio supplier and get either a low pass filter, band pass filter, or a cross-over, and follow the wiring diagram that comes with it to filter out the high frequencies before they get to your subs.
Check the wiring at the speakers themselves. It's possible that while you were moving the box one of the speaker wires came loose and shorted against the other terminal. A shorted speaker wire or damaged speaker will cause the amplifier to go into protect mode. If you have a digital multimeter with a resistance feature, you can test the resistance between the positive and negative terminals for each speaker.
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