The igniter is the first thing that goes bad on the broilers or the oven you need the igniter, it is the part next to the burner is towards the back and it lights up first it glows that's the part that's bad which is the igniter
SOURCE: Whirlpool range model GY398LXPB00 oven does not work
Turned out there was a short in one of the wires connected to the bottom element on the oven. After fixing that, I got a EO-F2 error that the repairman could not get rid of by pressing start. After hours on line and at this site I remembered that you had to do something after the power was interrupted. I came home and looked again and found you need to unplug the stove for 5 min before resetting the clock. I did this and it fixed everything. The repairman left telling me the control panel needed to replaced to the tune of about $600!
This shows you have to be informed or you can be taken advantage of. Thanks FixYa.
Bob
SOURCE: WHIRLPOOL INSTRUCTION MANUAL AND KNOBS
Here you go:
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%203196276.pdf
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c
SOURCE: Broiler element stays on. I had to trip the
a wire in the back of your stove is grounded... open rear panel after unplugging and look for burnt wires going to the element. the wires will be a higher grade than most..
most likely there is no problem with the broil element itself, but the problem could possibly be located in the oven switch (if it is not digital)
SOURCE: whirlpool gas range broiler will not work
This could still be a defective igniter, to verify you need a volt meter. The voltage being delivered to the oven gas valve must be at least 3.1 volts ac. Anything less and the valve operation is unreliable. If you have 3.1 to 3.3 volts to the valve when the thermostat is calling for heat and no gas, the valve needs to be replaced, If the voltage is lower, change the igniter.
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