I have to replace the power cord and need to find an electrical circuit diagram to ensure everything is connected properly. Do you know where I can find one?

If your Norpole dehumidifier is repeatedly starting and stopping, it could indicate a problem that needs to be addressed. Here are a few troubleshooting steps you can try:

1. Check the humidity settings: Ensure that the humidity level set on the dehumidifier is reasonable and not too low. If the desired humidity level is already reached, the dehumidifier may turn off until the humidity rises again.
2. Clean the air filter: A dirty or clogged air filter can restrict airflow and cause the dehumidifier to overheat. Turn off the dehumidifier, unplug it, and locate the air filter. Remove the filter and clean it according to the manufacturer's instructions. Allow it to dry completely before reinstalling it.
3. Check the water collection bucket: If the water collection bucket is full, the dehumidifier may automatically shut off. Empty the bucket and ensure it is properly positioned back into the unit.
4. Verify the drainage system: If your dehumidifier is equipped with a continuous drainage option, make sure the drainage hose is properly connected and not clogged. If the drainage hose is obstructed or improperly installed, it can cause the dehumidifier to turn on and off.
5. Ensure proper ventilation: Make sure the dehumidifier is placed in a well-ventilated area. Restricted airflow around the unit can lead to overheating, triggering the auto shut-off feature.
6. Power supply issues: Check the power cord and make sure it is securely plugged into a functioning power outlet. Also, ensure there are no issues with the circuit breaker or electrical supply.

If none of these steps resolve the issue, it's recommended to consult the user manual or contact Norpole customer support for further assistance. They will be able to provide more specific troubleshooting steps or advise on potential repairs or service options.

Hi Walter, thank you for your inquiry. I understand that your Frigidaire Dehumidifier is tripping the breaker. I would recommend checking to make sure that the bucket is installed properly. If everything checks out I would possibly changing the fuse in your home circuit breaker and never use an extension cord. Hope this helps! -JK

Good Morning Luca,

I understand your Frigidaire air conditioner, model# LRA067AT7, will not turn on. I also see that the wall outlet is good, so you are wondering if there is an automatic shut off if the filter has not been cleaned. Your air conditioner does not have an automatic shut off, if the filter has not been cleaned. Please start by cleaning the filter. You can do this easily with the following instructions:
The air filter should be checked at least once a month to see if cleaning is necessary. Trapped particles in the filter can build up and cause an accumulation of frost on the cooling coils.

1)Push the vent handle to the Vent Closed position (where applicable).
2)Open the front panel.
3)Grasp the filter by the center and pull up and out.
4)Wash the filter using liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water. Rinse filter thoroughly. Gently shake excess water from the filter. Be sure filter is thoroughly dry before replacing
5)Or instead of washing, you may vacuum the filter clean.


Also, be sure your air conditioner is properly grounded. To minimize shock and fire hazards, proper grounding is important. The power cord is equipped with a three-prong grounding plug for protection against shock hazards. Your air conditioner must be used in a properly grounded wall receptacle. If the wall receptacle you intend to use is not adequately grounded or protected by a time delay fuse or circuit breaker, have a qualified electrician install the proper receptacle. Do not run your air conditioner without outside protective cover in place. This could result in mechanical damage within your air conditioner. Do not use an extension cord or an adapter plug.

The power supply cord contains a current device that senses damage to the power cord. To test
your power supply cord do the following:


1)Plug in your Air Conditioner.
2)The power supply cord will have TWO buttons on the plug head. Press the TEST button. You will notice a click as the RESET button pops out.
3)Press the RESET button. Again you will notice a click as the button engages.
4)The power supply cord is now supplying electricity to the unit. 4)


I ask that you please follow up with a comment on the post, at your convenience, to advise if further troubleshooting is needed or if your appliances status has changed successfully. Hope this is helpful.

-Best Regards-
WP

I'd suggest you (1) make sure dehumifier is plugged in, (2) the circuit it's connected to is live (breaker not tripped and fuse not blown - this is easily tested by plugging in an appliance (e.g., hair dryer) you know works). If the unit turns on, it is likely defective - unless there is a hose connected to the dehumidifier that reroutes the water removed from the air to a drain (is there moisture collecting somewhere within 6-10' of the unit?). If it doesn't turn on, and you've troubleshooted the above to ensure there is electricity to the receptacle, then it's either defective or the moisture setting for removal needs to be adjusted for the humidity in your basement. Perhaps it's dryer down there than you thought, or your hygrostat (? - whatever the doohickey is called that senses humidity level) is set at too high a level that it never turns on/trips in your area. Hope it helps.

rmbm521 - I would like to help you, I have been offering solutions to humidifier problems for some time. But, I have never heard the term "amp", as would apply to a dehumidifier. In most general electrical terms "amp" or "amps" is the amount of electrical draw or use that an electrical appliance uses. It's short for "ampere".

I don't know where you heard it, read it or who told you that. But, they may have been referring to the circuit breaker , that's in your home's circuit breaker panel,. The one that feeds the outlet, the dehumidifier is plugged into. If that's the case, was your dehumidifier tripping one of the circuit breakers in you circuit breaker panel? If that's the case, they meant, the circuit breaker was not rated high enough to carry the load of dehumidifier, when it was in operation.

Hope this helped you. Please let me know. Thanks.

First, check the outlet that it's plugged into, to make sure that there's still power to the outlet. If there isn't, then the circuit breaker for that outlet has been tripped, in your home's circuit breaker panel. Leave the dehumidifier unplugged and reset the circuit breaker. If it trips again, without the dehumidifier unplugged, then the outlet is at fault. Perhaps there's a loose wire connection or the interior of the outlet is cracked.

If it didn't trip without the dehumidifier plugged in, plug the unit it in,. But, before you do, make sure the dehumidifier's Master ON/OFF Switch is OFF. Once it's plugged in, turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to ON and set your controls. If it runs now, GREAT! If it trips the circuit breaker again, there's either a short in the power cord or an internal electrical short. Which will require extensive troubleshooting to find.

Hope this helps you solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.

A dehumidifier is functionally the same as an air conditioner. It has a compressor motor, which is a fairly high current draw item.

First of all, unless you are well versed in electrical repairs, you should unplug this unit and do not use it. This is a dangerous condition and a fire or electrocution could result.

One of four things is happening:

1) You have a wiring fault in the circuit your humidifier is plugged into. There is a loose connection in the circuit, causing a voltage drop, and the humidifier therefore has to pull much more current to start it's compressor. This is a very dangerous condition, as an electrical fire could result. Try plugging the unit into another circuit and see if it does the same thing.

2) the compressor of the humidifier is going bad and is shorting out internally. Time for a new unit.

3) Many compressor motors use a 'start capacitor' to help the motor get going. If this part has failed, the motor will try to start, but it will not be able to.

4) There is a fault in the power cord or controls of the humidifier. Just like #1 above, a loose connection could cause a voltage drop, making the unit draw high current.

most of these units are standard 110V units. If yours uses 220V (like an electric dryer), then it could have 'lost a phase' which is also a similar electrical issue.

The dimming is probably normal, especially if the motor is a split winding type that has a start and a run winding. Ususlly, it will use a capacitor also. You can view the wiring diagram to see if this is the case.

Might try Manual @

http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/dehumidifiers/helpcenter/ownersmanuals/fedders/

I took my dehumidifier apart and I found why the unit no longer would start.

First, there is a fuse inside the metal compartment that houses the control circuit board.
However, the fuse was not blown. Instead I found the relay that controls the compressor,
(circuit diagram calls it RY-COMP) was not functioning and was left in the open position.
The relay must switch the compressor on/off based on humidity, full water hopper, and
maybe other factors like temperature.

The RY-COMP is a large black plastic component on the circuit board with two
wires (blue and black) connected at the top. I tested the contacts and they remained
open when starting up the dehumidifier. Doing a small bit of rewiring so that the blue and black wire
were connected and also wired to RY-COMP terminal 3, the dehumidifier came back to life.
However, this is good for proving what broke but without an electronic control to cycle the
unit on and off and to halt when the water hopper is full it's not a valuable alternative and
it risks a burnout of the compressor from constant use.

I think the RY-COMP relay is a solid state relay which could have gone bad from a spike
in voltage when plugging the unit in or cycling on/off.

I certainly don't want to buy another unit where the circuitry is not robust enough to survive
plugging in every couple weeks. I was thinking I could try replacing the relay with a magnet relay which would probably survive spikes much better.