Keeps freezing up and will not hold the lower temp. Do not know where the defrost timer is, or how to set. I am thinking this may be the problem.

the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:The defrost timerThe defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)The defrost heater the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:The defrost timerThe defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)The defrost heater

The defrost timer is not a part that has a knob you can turn or a switch to press.


It's a device incorporated in the compressor/evaporator coils and is usually controlled by the thermostat. What it will do is that it will automatically stop the compressor and defrost the refrigerator once it detects that it has been running long enough or if the temperature is at it's maximum.


Go ahead give it a try and let me know.


Thanks! The defrost timer is not a part that has a knob you can turn or a switch to press.
It's a device incorporated in the compressor/evaporator coils and is usually controlled by the thermostat. What it will do is that it will automatically stop the compressor and defrost the refrigerator once it detects that it has been running long enough or if the temperature is at it's maximum.
Go ahead give it a try and let me know.
Thanks!