I have three of your automatic shower cleaners. None of the three worked over six times, One filled up with the solution one bad circuit board, another eats batteries. Please send me three new ones. [email protected]

You will have a 60-90 fill cycle, then circulate, then another 60-90 fill, then on to ice making. When Ice making starts all remaining functions come on, such as the condenser fan, and compressor. Check for these functions after the initial fill/rinse/fill has finished. if the condenser fan comes on but the compressor does not, you very well may need a control board located behind the on/off switch panel. With constant heavy loads/usage, and or a dirty condenser coil the compressor relay solder joints often become weak and short open on the board, this can sometimes be fixed by just cleaning and re-soldering the relay joint on the board. Pleazer Appliance...

This is power supply problem and couple of parts need to be replaced.
Can you replace parts in circuit board? it needs good soldering skills with proper tools.
Let me know to proceed.
Thanks

I suspect you may have either a circuit board crack or the volume pot is bad or soldering of it is bad. Vibration will make things come and go. Look for broken solder around the pot leads first. Then look for a cracked circuit trace on the board near the ground end of the volume pot. If you put cleaner in the pots NEVER use Deoxit or Blue Shower. Use CRC226 which is available at Home Depot in the electrical dept.

Remove the panel on the top of the back of the stove - check for grease residue on connectors plugged into circuit board - clean connectors and circuit board with electrical contact cleaner - reassemble and test for correct operation. The oven vent at the rear of stove sometimes leaks grease filled vapors into the area of the control circuit board.causing bad or intermittent electrical connections to oven temp sensors and front controls on the oven.

You may wish to try removing and re-seting some of the connectors on the back of the control panel...worked for me when our oven and timers stopped working.....

Remove the sheet metal panel at the top of the back of the oven..three phillips screws....then slide the two blue ribbon, wire connectors out, and re-seat them a few times to get a good connection.

Try to un-seat and re-seat some of the others aswell...perhaps un-plug from the wall first....but make sure there is good connections....then re-plug in, and see what happens...

You'll need a replacement board. You'll need model and serial numbers off of the cleaner itslef to help identify which power supply and therefore what PCB is needed to replace yours. Try contacting our service center at www.arrowmotor.net and click the contact button in the upper right corner.

Make sure you have good hot batteries fridge should be getting 13-14 volts Could be a bad ground unplug them and spray with electric parts cleaner, but most likely the main circuit board is bad. Take the black cover off the circuit board and if it is filled with yellow epoxy it is almost positively the circuit board.

does high voltage come up (35KV)? if not then suspect the HOT(horizonal output transistor) to be shorted or the flyback transformer to be bad or both. the CRTs for this set are no longer available.
here are some tips from mitsubishi.
1. SUSPECT R503 (3.9K 5W METAL) AND T500 (336P009030) FAILURE. LOCATED ON PCB-MAIN IN HORIZONTAL DRIVE CIRCUIT 2. DEAD SET. CHECK R2045 AND R2048 BOTH ARE 6.8 OHM 3W OFF PIN 5 OF IC2003 ON THE SIGNAL PCB.

How many times per second does the POWER led blink? (dont worry about the OPC).

1x per second (constant, steady blink) = bad inverter/lamps
2x per second = bad power supply
3x per second = bad main board

You can buy the parts online and fix if yourself!!