MY NVLR333EVOWW HOT POINT DRYER IS NOT HEATING. HOW CAN I DETERMINE IF IT'S THE HEATING ELEMENT?

See if you can spin the drum with little resistance or is it really hard to spin?

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Heating Element A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Heating Element Assembly A defective heating element assembly can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element assembly to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Air Flow Problem Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.
Cycling Thermostat Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.

First you have to determine whether you element is in the front or the back of the machine this is done easiest by looking at the front of the machine and seeingif its one complete piece or two. If its one, the element is in the back, if two its in the front. We'll start if its in the back first. Tools you'll need is: 1/4 nut driver or drill with 1/4 adapter and a multimeter with ability to check continuity. With the machine unplugged, remove the back cover of the dryer. Once done, the heating element will be located on the right hand side with two fuses on the housing of the element. Test the element and each fuse seperatly by removing the wires and checking for continuity on each component. All parts should show continuity, so if one doesn't its bad and needs to be replaced. Now if the element is the front everything is the same with the exception of you have to remove the lower portion, usually held on by 3-4 screws located underneath.

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Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. To determine if the heating element is burned out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) To determine if the thermal fuse has blown out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page.

Hello there and welcome to fixya
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. To determine if the heating element is burned out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) To determine if the thermal fuse has blown out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page.

Hello there and welcome to fixya
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. To determine if the heating element is burned out, Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) To determine if the thermal fuse has blown out,

Hello there and welcome to fixya
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. To determine if the heating element is burned out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) To determine if the thermal fuse has blown out,
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

there is chance that the heating element has gone bad but the first things to check are all your thermal fuses inside the cabinet of the dryer. They should all have continuity and the one that does not have anything then it needs to be replaced

your element has burnt in half where the sparks are coming from is the end of the element touching the metal. You need the model and serial number go to the nearest appliance parts supplier and get a new element they aren't that hard to replace. Always make sure you disconnect the power source before doing any repairs to the dryer. Good Luck

Dave

It sounds as if your heating element may have broken in one area and fallen against the element shround and grounded itself out. This will cause the element to bypass the safety circuitry and continue to heat, but at a lower wattage. You were very diligent in unplugging the dryer.
You will have to replace the heating element. Do not attempt to repair the element as this will only cause a hot spot and will burn in two again.