I have a Troybilt tomahawk chipper. The bearings in the belt tensioner pulley have failed. It is a sealed bearing-- so not easy to replace. Do you sell the whole pulley? -- or what to you recommend?

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Make sure that a) none of the pulleys are loose due to failing bearings b) that the belt tensioner is applying enough tension to the belt c) belt tensioner damper is working. First twist the belt by hand between the longest point between pulleys by about 90 degrees. This should be difficult to do if the tensioner is applying correct tension. Next while the engine is idling look at the belt alignment from the side to be sure the belt is not wandering backwards and forwards on the pulleys. Also see if the tensioner pulley is bouncing about. Perhaps best to again remove belt and wiggle each pulley by hand to detect any play in the bearings. If tensioner is bouncing it is likely the damper spring is not working as it should.

Hi,

A tensioner pulley is used to maintain proper belt tension. Some belt tensioners are locked in place with a bolt or nut after correct adjustment has been made. Other designs use spring tension to automatically tension the belt. Advice: Too much tension will cause a strain on any bearings involved. Not enough tension can lead to slippage or belts jumping off. Tensioner pulley bearings are of the sealed type and can not be serviced. Check to make sure that there is no wobble or play in the bearing and that it turns smoothly. If any play or roughness is found, the tensioner pulley should be replaced. If spring tension is being used, ensure the integrity of the spring

To re;move the pulley you'll need a 'breaker bar' or a long socket wrench. Just slip the correct socket over the bolt and unloosen it. If your Voyager was built in Canada, the nuts and bolts are usually metric. Make certain that you're using the correct size so as not to strip the bolt. It's a pain because of the lack of room. Just take it slow and easy.

Ben

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

Go to this site:

http://www.brentchalmers.com/

I note your looking for the Super Tomahawk. If you can come up with a model number I think I can find your parts manual for sure. (or at least an on-line parts list.) Also.... If you can come up with an engine number like OH120 or L90 off of the engine I can find you a manual for the engine also.

This is the list of Manuals available there:

1983 W-W Grinder Inc. Manual and Parts List Super Tomahawk 5-8-2G/C and Tomahawk 5-8-2G/M Chipper/Shredder (40 Pages)

1989 Troy-Bilt Owner/Operator Manual Junior Tomahawk Chipper/Shredder (24 Pages)

1989 Troy-Bilt Technical Manual 4HP, 5HP, & 8HP Models Tomahawk Chipper/Shredder (12 Pages)

1991 Troy-Bilt Owner/Operator Manual Junior Tomahawk Chipper/Shredder (24 Pages)

1991 Troy-Bilt Knife Kit number 1772231 (1 Page)

1992 Troy-Bilt 5HP Model Service Kit (Part Nos. 1901153 and 1901804) For Chipper/Vac (1 Page)

1992 Troy-Bilt Owner/Operator Manual 47260, 47261, 47271, 47272 Chipper/Vac (60 Pages)

1993 Troy-Bilt Sales Brochure Chipper/Vac (4 Pages)

1993 Troy-Bilt Owner/Operator Manual 47265, 47266, 47267, 47276 Tomahawk Chipper/Shredder (44 Pages)

1993 Troy-Bilt Parts Catalog 47265, 47266, 47267, 47276 Tomahawk Chipper/Shredder (16 Pages)

1994 Troy-Bilt PTO Chipper/Shredder Owners Dog Clutch Kit 1902404 (1 Page)

Hopefully your model is one of the above.

Here is link to the Parts manuals:

http://www.partsandservice.com/html/TroyBilt/cs/

There are 90 parts manuals there.

Again with a good model and engine number I can probably come up with your exact manuals.

Thanks for chosing FixYa,

Kelly

I take help from online websites
that have this service like helping in repair some like reliable-store have instant help.. others are a bit slow which I don't prefer... rest is up to us.. U can also get free manuals

There is nothing to lubricate since the bearing are sealed. Grease and oil travels and will getr inside the drum is most cases. If you do decide to repack the bearings with grease a strong saftey pin is needed to pop out the grease seals on the bearings. If the belt tensioners pulley bearing squeaks, replace that pulley along with the belt.
The top and front panels will have to be removed to gain access to the internal parts. The drum will pull directly out when the panels are removed as well
Disconnect the electric before tearing down

The tensioner is not set or aligned properly.
Rocked back and forth  this means the pivot bushing has worn down.
Tensioner Arm Misalignment
This may appear as metal-to-metal contact between
the arm and spring housing, and will be indicated by
shiny, smooth streaks or gouges in the metal.
Misalignment also is likely if the arm can be vertically
rocked back and forth. This means the pivot
bushing has worn down.
Idler Bearing Wear
With the engine off and the belt removed, manually
rotate the tensioner pulley. Noise or resistance
when turning the pulley could indicate bearing
failure. Check for play in the bearing by rocking the
pulley. It should only pitch very slightly. If noise,
resistance or excessive play is found, replace the
pulley.
-----------
Excessive Tensioner Arm Movement
With the engine running, observe the back and forth
sway of the tensioner arm. If it exceeds 1/2” of
movement, or moves continually, the damping
system has failed. This movement can reduce the
life of the tensioner, belt and component bearings.
The tensioner should be replaced.
------------
Improper Belt Tracking
With the engine running, inspect the belt and tensioner pulley. If the belt
is not properly tracking in the center of the pulley, the tensioner could be misaligned. This also can be a sign of a bent bracket or misaligned components. Check the drive components and repair if necessary.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

basically you need a special tool to release the tension on the belt then remove the belt then it should be easy to remove the bearing and replace...better to use a mechanic with the proper tools

RepairClinic.com

The top of the washer lifts up like a car hood after two clips between the top and the front panel are pushed with a putty knife. Once the top is flipped open, the screws that hold the front panel in place at the top can be removed and the panel lifted off. The belt may be bad or something may be stopping the belt like a bad pump. Or the transmission drive pulley and bearing may be going bad. If the bearings above the transmission drive pulley fail the brake will not release correctly in the spin cycle causing weak, slow or no spin. The belt & pulley system can be accessed by tipping the washer back. The belt is routed around all three pulleys under the washer and is fairly loose until the motor starts. It is the torque of the motor that gives the belt tension. Leaking or loud "jet engine" sound in spin indicates a bad main tub seal at the outer tub which has caused the spin bearing to fail. This is a complicated repair as the inner and outer tubs need to be removed from the washer to access and replace the seal and bearing components.

Go here for: Maytag-Washing-Machine-Parts

the drum has dropped
the drum is suspended on felt pads to seal the drum edges, nylon guides at the front, and rubber tyred thrust rollers to withstand the torque of the motor and belt at the rear.
the usual cause is the rollers have failed, common fault, easy fix, cheap too
good rollers look like this
worn rollers like this

try not to run the dryer till the rollers are replaced, the extra strain will break the belt,

• unplug dryer(220v is Not Fun)
• remove lint screen
• undo screws inside lint screen holder, screwing it to case lid (so lid can tilt up)
• with putty knife or other blunt blade, release spring catches under front corners of case lid
• raise case lid
• remove screws 1/3 way down front corners of body holding front panel on
• remove door switch cable from door switch
• lift door off set aside

1. drum motor felts and bearings are now accessible.
2. pull tensioner fully agains spring
3. remove belt from motor pulley
4. lift drum and withdraw fully forwards
5. with drum removed check support rollers for free movement, check drum slides and/or drum felts for wear

reassemble.

1. loop belt loosely around drum at wear marks from prior installation
2. reinsert drum onto rollers bearings slides felts as installed.
3. loop belt around motor pulley
4. pull tensioner pulley against spring to end of its travel
5. loop belt around tensioner pulley
6. relax tensioner pulley to tighten belt
7. rotate drum by hand to ensure belt is aligned

reassemble case in reverse order.