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Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Following is pre-typed, saves time - in your case just refer to 'cold' please ;-0)
If you have checked that the hot and cold water taps are turned on fully and the hoses are not kinked or squashed at the back, it is worth while checking both the hot and cold water inlet filters. Turn the taps off and remove both hoses at the washer end. Inside each inlet port there is normally a little filter which should just slide out. Clean if necessary and replace each one and the hoses. If after turning the taps back on there is no improvement, the problem is symptomatic of a malfunctioning hot or cold water control valve. Sorry but it needs a service call and a check that it isn't the control PCB ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck,
John C
In a word- YES!
You will need to purchase, from a hardware (?) store, a 'Y' adapter. Upside down the single end (internal thread) screws into the cold water supply and the hot and cold washer pipes screw into the double end (external threads). The washer is fooled into thinking it has hot and cold! When it expects hot, it opens its hot valve but instead gets the cold water and has to heat it up. It will therefore take longer for the machine to do the washing. When it wants cold for rinses, it opens its cold valve and gets the same water! Simple ;-0)
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck,
John C
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
This is symptomatic of a malfunctioning water control valve- the hot water one, if the washer is hot and cold fill, and the cold one if it is just cold fill!
Sorry but it needs replacing and a service call to confirm that it is not something else- like the control board not feeding the correct voltage to the valve ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
All Hotpoint washers have heater element regardless of whether they are cold fill only, or hot and cold fill.
if 2 connections at rear, then it is hot and cold fill, if only 1 connection, then it is cold fill only.
Please rate my solution.
Thanks.
Error code F10 means common feed of heater or thermostat open circuit. You need to test the thermostats and the heater element for continuity. You need a multimeter to do this, assuming you know how to use a meter,then set it on the ohms range for continuity, remove one wire from each stat, and test with meter across terminals of stats, You should get FSD if stats are o/k. If you don't, then you need to replace both stats, even if only one is faulty. It is unlikely to be the element that is faulty, as they rarely fail. Plz rate my solution. Thanks
I recently had the same problem with my Hotpoint Ultima WF860P and after some investigations, I found a disconnected tube linked to the pressure switch beneath the top cover was the cause of the problem. In short, this tube forces air to the pressure switch and cuts off the valve feeds.
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