I opened my amplifer top and saw fuse 3.6 amp 125v blown up. I purchased fuse from fry's 3.6 amp 125/250v and installed it get blown right away. there is no power or light on the screen window...help

No, that is NOT what the problem is.

The fuse protects the power supply. The power amps have failed. The usual cause is an arc between layers of the multi-layer circuit board. The labor to repair the power amp module is extensive. I have repaired several.

You can find new amp modules and I would purchase a new one and drop into your unit. The amp module is an HCA2400.

There is probably $15 of parts blown in each side of the power amp and it takes about 6 hours to repair. One has to grind out the burned area (internal layers not necessarily visible on surface) and re-insulate and then install jumper wires to replace those taken out.

Each side of the amp will likely take out 3 switching MOSFET transistors and often a Zener diode. Sometimes a low resistance metering resistor will be fried with smoky residue underneath the board. When this happens two small surface mounted resistors will be blown open. Great care has to be taken when insulating the board damage and replacement of the blown circuit traces.

You can find HCA2400 power amp module replacements for about $175 online.

Use of the unit as an unpowered mixer is a bit dangerous as if arc re-establishes it can fry the power supply taking out two very expensive IGBT's and many other components. If the mixer still works, then your whole power supply is still OK.

Check HomeDepot they have 7amp , maybe your store has 8amp.

The fuses may not be your problem--I have fixed several of these---The large power board is on the right side as you look from the back?

Lots of these sets develop bad solder connections on that board--several sites on the internet offer to have you remove and send them the board to resolder--this set used lead free solder and after some years has problems--a few I have opened had clearly broken solder joints--I usually in this case remove the board(mark all the many plugs and make a diagram) and solder almost all of it by hand----usually fixes this kind of trouble.

I do this here for free so if this information was helpful give me a vote here....I am here to help people.

If you have any questions or need advice reply to this posting here.

SD TECH

We are going to purchase a new shredder. Changing the fuse did not work.

Take this from a 4 board and 9 fuse owner.I believe the ceramic thermal fuse does not blow quick enough and during voltage spikes,or under a load cause overheating of the control board.All my boards had burnt marks on the back of the board(apposite where the 4 prong plug goes).I purchased a new board ,new ceramic fuse with the wire.They say the wire must be replaced too.(Ebay under Whilpool dishwasher fuse 14.00) Next on Ebay I purchased a 15 amp marine push button circuit breaker which I mounted in the side of the front panel.Split the one leg going to the ceramic fuse,run it to one of the legs of the breaker and run the other side of the breaker leg back to the ceramic fuse.I know someone out there is saying you don't need the ceramic fuse if you have the breaker in the line.Humor me.Lets say you get a large surge that fries the breaker closed as in a lightning storm.The ceramic fuse may save the day.Since I have set ours up this way the breaker trips once in a blue moon.Reset it and your off and running again.Oh and don't bother calling Whilpool(makers of Kitchenaid) You can't get anywhere with them.Now if for some unfortunate reason this doesn't solve your problem,don't throw away that dishwasher.Remove the upper and lower baskets,bolt them to the trunk of your car and the next time you go to the car wash bring your dishes with you.LOL

You will need to remove the back of the TV. Don't worry, it's not that bad.

There are 4 screws across the top, one on each side, one right next to where the power cord goes into the back of the case, and the two more by all of the video connections **These are the most important to remove because they attach the main board to the back of the case.

Once you have remove the screws then the entire back of the set will slide off. If you look where the power cord attaches to the board you will see a small fuse. This is a 6.3 Amp 125 volt fuse. You can replace it with a 6.3 Amp 250 volt fuse from your local Radio Shack. A four pack costs between $3 and $5.

Make sure that you check that it works before putting it all back together. Check for any loose connection cables while you're back there. I found a few when I did this.

Good luck!

This condition, may be produced by defective components (Q506, Q507). you can remove those transistor, replace the fuses, power-on and wait for relays click. if the fuses not blown again, them replace both transistor.

Hi Nikadis your problem is shorted,when you going to change new fuse its blown away.The diodes there in supply is shorted change that ,and the capacitor also short look it up.If you do this your unit will come on.message me whatever the result.

Hi, If the fuse physically fits into your unit then it will work. However- - - WARNING! Although 6.3 amps on a 250v fuse will allow the current to flow it will not afford you the circuit protection you require for a 125v circuit. If the circuit develops a fault then there is a danger that you burn out the circuit before the fuse. As you have already blown one fuse I would suggest tracking down the fault before you do any thing else.
The Scrivener.

You CAN open the unit (keep in mind that even unpluged there is still voltage runing through the system, so.... dont fry) and you will notice, if the face of the unit is towards you you will see on the left hand side a power supply board, the fuse is on that board, and it is a tube fuse, 125V 8A. Most stores do not carry the 125V version anymore, but will carry a 250V. This is okay to use where the voltage is not the main purpose of the fuse.