Shoulder rest measurment and ect. - MTX Bon Musica 16" Viola Shoulder Rest

Measure the breaker, measure the power switch, measure the power cable,

It's happening right now!!!! Hurry.

It is not clear exactly what parts are missing. If you can find the screw or thumbscrew part, consider MAKING YOUR OWN sleeve...Possibly use a short length of copper tubing or cut a piece of rod and drill a hole in it for the sleeve... Sometimes for a spacer we have just stacked up several small nuts... better than spending $50 for whole new rest.

Likely a failure in the power amp. You could be damaging the speaker using it while in failed mode. Have it repaired.

Let us use a bit of logic to resolve this... I have an Axiom but it would be a lot of screws to take out to get to the part... so let us think about this. The resistor value starts with a "1" and we know it is 5% tolerance (gold). we know the resistor burnt up with likely 5 volts on it... Value could be 1000 ohms, however the voltages present (12 volts max) would NOT have burned up a resistor of 1000 ohms. The USB area is mostly 5 volts and across 100 ohms is only a quarter watt... not enough to really burn up a resistor... First thing is to MEASURE that the resistor s open... in spite of being burned, it MAY still be OK... these resistors now usually either open or remain close to their value. The resistor ALSO may be a fusible resistor intended to act as a fuse... Is the resistor open or not? is it near a resistance with a "1" as the first digit? If it is not open I suspect it is not all of the problem. In that case, look for a burned circuit trace on the board. If it is open, then MEASURE the voltage across the resistor with the power applied. If you find 5 volts, then it MIGHT be a 10 ohm used to limit the USB current to 500ma. Get back to me with your findings... I have unraveled many of these things...

Yes, assuming the spongy part has not deteriorated, get some contact cement and follow the directions. Coat the metal and the spongy with a thin coat of the cement. Let dry till tacky and then carefully press the spongy into place. Make sure you get it straight as once the glue touches it grabs. Start one end and then roll it down into place.
If the spngy part has deteriorated, find new material and apply as above.

The key contacts are dirty. There are two per key which is to measure the velocity. That is why the loudness varies because that key is firing quicker.

Disassemble and clean the contacts. They are conductive rubber.

Use ONLY 99% isoprophyl alcohol and Q tips to clean each rubber "pill" and the circuit board traces they contact.

Be careful of the ribbon cables when disassembling.

The dial could have a desoldered pin or oxydized slider contacts. Try to resolder the pins, but if that doesn't solve it then you would need to disassemble and clean the internal slide contacts on the dial which can be a bit difficult, so the alternative is to replace the dial if you can find a spare one.

To bypass the dial (with fixed resistances) you need to know the resistance at each side of the dial when it is in the position that suits your needs (connect the snare to a working input, set the sensitivity as needed, mark the position of the dial).

The resistance can be measured with an ohm meter.
To be sure that the measuring will be accurate, it is ok to remove the dial from the circuit board (adjacent components may affect the measured value).
You should do the measuring on a dial that is good.

After you've removed the dial, set it to the position that you marked previously.

Measure the resistance between left and middle pin of the dial - this will be the value of the fixed resistor which you need to connect to the left and middle hole on the circuit board.
Now measure the resistance between middle and right pin on the dial - this will be the value of the fixed resistor which will be connected to the middle and right hole on the circuit board.

Now you need to get resistors which have the values that you've measured and solder them in place of a bad dial.

It is likely that the measured value will differ from the standard fixed resistor values. To achieve the exact measured value, you can connect two or more fixed resistors in series, just make sure that the added value of the fixed resistors for each side is the same as the measured value on each side of the dial.

Now you need to solder the fixed resistors to the circuit board and the modification is complete.

If you actually decide to do this modification and you're unsure about anything, just post me some feedback, i'll be glad to help.

Anyway, hopefully it is just a desoldered pin that you need to reflux.

Regards,

Triarcuate

If you are using the proper footswitch try testing it by connecting the probes of a volt ohm meter to the plug tip and base. Using the resistance measurement push down on the footswitch. It should have either a measurement initially or no measurement until you push down on it. If there is a measurement both ways or neither way, you need to replace or repair the footswitch.

First of all make sure your gtr. neck is perfectly strate. to ck. this site down the neck like the berral of a gun. to should have no concave to it at all. if it has then you will have to deal with that first.
But lets just get to the other spect hopeing that all is well with the neck. #1 string height is measured at the 12th fret.you will need a mm gage. at the 12th the low E string or 6th string should be at 2.00mm and the high E at 1.5. use a view of sight to get them at even heights.The pickups are between 2.5 and 3.00 mm. use a alan wrenck to rais and lower the strings at the saddel. DONT use a philups screw driver on the horazontal screws with springs.This is your intonation. if you get this messed up your gtr. will never play right. I hope you can do this , good luck. if this helps please rate me tK. u DFD