Ice formed on coils of ad 70 uss - Whirlpool AD70USS Dehumidifier

I have had a AD75UST0 WHIRLPOOL Dehumidifier for several years. I had mine ice up once or twice particularly on very high humidity days > 90%. Once it thawed out. I was able to remove the filter. Most likely it is due to dust getting on coils & condenser Or actually has a Freon leak. to resolve the dirty coils you can easily dissemble (that is remove front & rear cover) it to give coils and condenser a good thorough cleaning. It the coils and condenser are not at all dirty, then is not the cause of the icing. The units are typically not serviceable - i.e. a disposable small appliance.

Hi,

The most common cause of frost and ice buildup on a dehumidifier is because the unit is operating in temperatures that are too cold. Many dehumidifiers are not equipped to run at temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
To fix this problem, Position the dehumidifier in an area where there is at least one foot of clearance around the unit in order to allow for proper air circulation during its operation. Close all windows, doors and other outside openings to make sure your unit isn't attempting to remove moisture from areas outside of the immediate room. Determine the temperature of the room by checking a nearby thermostat or by using a hand-held thermometer.

Check the filter for dirt and buildup. Unplug the unit from the electrical source and check the filter by opening the filter compartment. If the filter is dirty, it will restrict airflow through the unit and lead to freezing. Soleus recommends lightly vacuuming the surface of the filter to remove dirt. The filter also can be washed in warm water if it is extremely dirty. Once clean, place the filter back in its compartment. Allow for the ice to melt and then restart your dehumidifier.

Yes. Wet clothing would act to put Humidity in the air. think of the air as a sponge the more you heat the air the more the air will take moisture out of its surrondings. The more you cool the air the less moisture it can hold.
a Dehumidifier is a reverse refrigrator.. Air is forced over cool coils and the moisture forms and freezes on the coils (ice). The unit turns off and the coil and ice takes heat up from the surrounding area (makes room colder;Clothing takes longer to dry; The temperature in that room should be were people reside 70-80 degrees). the ice melts and water drips into a holding container which you dump periodically. Solution: 1. remove wet clothing or 2. raise temperature in room. 3. put a space heater in that room instead of Dehumidifier

the unit either has dirty evaporator coils and this will make them ice up,or the unit is low on refrigerant/freon,try cleaning the whole unit of dirt and dust first,then you may need to install a saddle tap on the sealed system and add some refrigerant/freon as these systems seem to leak more often than other sealed systems

most dehumidifiers will freeze up when it gets below 70 degrees. if where you are running it is below 70 degrees, then you need a different style. whirlpool makes a model specifically designed to run in colder climates. best buy or other that has whirlpool stuff.

Check your filter, indoor coil and blower wheel to see if they are dirty, if they are they need to be cleaned, if not then you are probably low on refrigerant or Blower speed to low. If the blower doesn’t run when you turn the switch to on then you need to check the blower out, especially the capacitor.

needs to be charged with freon

Unless equipped with special equipment most dehumidifiers will produce little if any water under 65-70 degrees. Many state operation down to 50-60 degrees but this was under lab conditions and therefore a marketing tool. The best performance is gained when the air temperature is above 70 degrees. The water you are finding is from melting frost, if you have a humidity problem you should be adding heat to the area to be dried, warm air holds much more moisture than cold and drying is much more effective if you can heat the area to around 80 degrees.

DEPENDING ON HOW FAR AND HOW LONG IT RAN TILTED, YOU MIGHT HAVE AN ISSUE WITH THE BUCKET SWITCH, LOCATED BEHIND THE BUCKET. SOMETIMES THERE IS A FLOAT INSIDE THE BUCKET THAT ACTIVATES THE SWITCH. IT MAY HAVE GOTTEN IN A BIND. TRY REMOVING THE BUCKET AND THEN REINSTALLING IT.
IF YOU HEAR A CLICKING NOISE ONCE EVERY FEW MINUTES, YOU MAY HAVE DAMAGED THE COMPRESSOR.
THE COMPRESSOR HAS LUBRICATING OIL IN THE BOTTOM OF IT AND REQUIRES IT BEING LEVEL TO PROPERLY PICK UP THE OIL. IF YOU TILT IT FAR ENOUGH, IT WON'T BE ABLE TO PICK UP THE OIL AND WILL DAMAGE THE INTERNAL MOVEMENT OF THE COMPRESSOR. REPLACE-MENT OF THE COMPRESSOR IS THE ONLY FIX AN TOO EXPENSIVE. BETTER TO JUNK IT AND START OVER.

My unit is a Fedders A7DH65B2A and your Maytag unit was made by Fedders and is just like mine w/ different label... I've purchased two of these units (one for me & one for my father-in-law) and they both quit pulling moisture from the air (but ran constantly) about 1 month past the 1yr warranty. My unit also acted really strange one day when the problem was occurring - it flashed on & off erratically and wouldn't power off unless I pulled the power cord. In short, I took it apart and found several issues and eventually figured out the chain of events that led to this: 1) The thermistor went bad and the unit could no longer sense when the evaporator coil started freezing up (normal situation that the unit should detect & then do a defrost cycle). As a result, the evaporator coil turned itself into a big chunk of ice (can see by removing the air filter and looking into that slot at the coil (looks like a radiator). 2) the big block of ice on the coil grew large enough to start making contact with part of the plastic housing above the evap coil that's used for the power control circuit board. The plastic in that area then got ice all over it and since it looks like a little tray, it will hold water (when the ice thaws) and then the power control board will be sitting in a puddle of water (or ice - either will cause malfuntions like not being able to turn the power off using the front panel switch). 3) the puddle of water in the power control board tray caused this circuit board to corrode (happens very quickly when the unit is plugged in since electricity accelerates this kind of thing...). So... a poor quality thermistor (this straps to the bottom right side of the copper pipe that loops out & back in to the evap coil and has a wire coming out of if) caused premature defrost circuit failure. This caused a big block of ice to form where it shouldn't be. The ice caused condensation/moisture/ice to form on/under the power control circuit board and corroded the circuit board and caused erratic power control issues. RepairClinic.com had a replacement sensor board (included all sensors - yes, the thermistor too...) so I purchased it (~$40) and used only the new thermistor off of it to plug into my original sensor board (and strapped it back to the evap coil w/ the chrome looking clip that was already there). Problem fixed! Well, almost... I did have to clean the corrosion off my power control board as well, but it survived luckily. After doing this to mine, my father-in-laws unit experienced similar symptoms. I did the same fix to his and presto... fixed. Cheap low quality thermistors on these units. I need to find a higher quality replacement thermistor before round 2 happens on each unit. Good luck!