Dryer runs but no heat. It is gas dryer. I checked vents - ok. What next? Dryer guide says check fuse - no clue where that is.

if it won't turn or anything its probably the neutral wire on the terminal block in the rear of the unit,they carry a high amount of current and can get brittle and break off or burn off in time check the incoming power connections first,if it turns but doesn't heat,then it may be your thermal fuse located in the vent duct housing inside the dryer if this opens you will not get any heat from either a gas or electrically heated dryer

As the clothes gently toss about inside the drum, a temperature control thermostatic disk regulates the heat. It is set for 160f for cotton and it mounts on the blower housing. As air is drawn into the drum and out the backside of the dryer the heat is regulated by this control. It sends 120 volts to the gas assembly. Right next to it is a fuse. The duct fuse is set to blow at 250f. Should that control fail to open and allow for heat to build to abnormally high temps. Note: the fuse will kill the heat source only on most dryer, the dryer will however continue to run. Lint and vent blockage can restrict the airflow and make the heat inside build to dangerous levels.The control thermostat powers up the heat for a minute then shuts down for a few minutes, then repeats this all throughout the drying process, the gas does not stay on! That would burn the clothes. If both of those items check ok and the dryer vent and lint has been cleaned, I next take a look at the gas assembly. I check the flame sensor first. If the flame sensor is open the ignitor will not glow. If that turns out to be good I next check the ignitor itself for continuity. If it turns out to be good I replace the coils. Those coils cannot be checked because they do not act up until energised. Sometimes the coils will work, get hot and fail, cool down and work again. I have some repair photos: HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

As the clothes gently toss about inside the drum, a temperature control thermostatic disk regulates the heat. It is set for 160f for cotton and it mounts on the blower housing. As air is drawn into the drum and out the backside of the dryer the heat is regulated by this control. It sends 120 volts to the gas assembly. Right next to it is a fuse. The duct fuse is set to blow at 250f. Should that control fail to open and allow for heat to build to abnormally high temps. Note: the fuse will kill the heat source only on most dryer, the dryer will however continue to run. Lint and vent blockage can restrict the airflow and make the heat inside build to dangerous levels.The control thermostat powers up the heat for a minute then shuts down for a few minutes, then repeats this all throughout the drying process, the gas does not stay on! That would burn the clothes. If both of those items check ok and the dryer vent and lint has been cleaned, I next take a look at the gas assembly. I check the flame sensor first. If the flame sensor is open the ignitor will not glow. If that turns out to be good I next check the ignitor itself for continuity. If it turns out to be good I replace the coils. Those coils cannot be checked because they do not act up until energized. Sometimes the coils will work, get hot and fail, cool down and work again. I have some repair photos: HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

if gas, check the following.

1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.


If electric, check the following.

1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

GAS DRYER CHECK LIST

1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.


ELECTRIC DRYER CHECK LIST

1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

IF this is a Gas dryer, check the following.

1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.


If this is an electric dryer, check the following.


1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.


Additional Checks.


Venting
Make sure the dryer vent hose, as well as the rest of the vent duct, is not clogged.

Unless regular maintenance is performed, chances are there is a lot of lint accumulated inside the dryer. This might affect the drying time and could be a fire hazard. Make sure to have your dryer cleaned regularly. Because this might involve taking most of the dryer apart, it is recommended to have a qualified appliance repairman perform this task.

For a gas dryer, check the following


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.


For a electric dryer, check the following

1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Ok, you did not state if this dryer is electric or gas so, i will post both solutions for each dryer type.

ELECTRIC--CHECK THE FOLLOWING


1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.


GAS--CHECK THE FOLLOWING

1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

For a gas dryer, check the following---

1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

For a electrical dryer, check the following---


. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

remove the plastic tab infront of the machine
start you dryer. look inside the hole to see if the igniter glows.
takes 20-30 secnds.
if it glows then move to the back side of the dryer
remove the screws an check the thermal fuse, for continuity is your tester has the beep sound wich is easier to use for newbies, try it no beep sound, no good.

but if it checks ok then you probaly have bad coils

also since you are looking onthe back make sure that the vent is not restricted, a restricted vent can cause blow back an shut the dryer off if the vent is not clearly open.

good luck!