I have had the coffeemaker 1 month and 3 days. It is now leaking from the base. I don't want to go through the hassle and expense of parts or returning to Bunn. This unit was purchased from WalMart and I would like to return it there. Please advise.

Fixed--- I don't think so !!

3 Mechanics-that is sad

How about the power brake booster?
Was that checked & the vacuum check valve okey?

You wouldn't be happy if that solved the issue & you
got the valve off the wall on a trip thru the parts store
& installed yourself

What about ABS Issues?

What happens if you command the valves open
with a scan tool,bleed system & test drive with scanner
and valves still open or disconnect the motor to it & drive
around a few days.

I remember a load leveler valve under the back on
the drivers side on some caravans?

The fluid has to go somewhere,if not back into the reservoir,
then the abs unit maybe.

Better check the not leaking part yourself, unless you don't
loose any fluid

You bleed them there okey for 3 days,why,that is the key,
then what?

According to Sony, this television has been discontinued - you must call in to inquire about the replacement part by calling their replacement customer service number at 1-800-488-SONY extension: 7669. Sony claims to offer replacement parts on discontinued items for up to seven years after the date of discontinuation.

If you don't want to deal with Sony's customer service department, you can order a replacement screen at PartStore.com by clicking this link: http://www.partstore.com/Part/Sony/Sony/180261311/New.aspx -- Please be aware that this part is EXPENSIVE; it might actually be worth it to contact Sony directly.

Sorry to hear about your television - it's always such a hassle to find and buy discontinued parts at a reasonable price. I hope that Sony offers you a good deal on a replacement!

While a fuel filter won't normally cause the check engine light, it could cause other errors that would trigger the error light to come on.

Since fuel filters are easy to change and not very expensive, I would change it and see would happens. But you might also want to run a pressure test on your fuel pump also.

Depending on the location of your oil leak, yes, it could be something that's expensive to fix. However, the reason for that expense probably wouldn't be the parts (it's probably some rubber gasket or seal), but rather the labor required to get to the rubber part and replace it. For example, if your rear seal has developed a leak, you may have to take off quite a lot of engine parts to install the $4.95 (I just made that price up, but it's not a particularly expensive part) seal.

It is possibly worth taking the time and modest expense to figure out the source of your oil leak, just to make sure that it's either something easily fixed or something that can safely be ignored. The tried and true method for tracking down the source of your leak is to get your engine steam-cleaned, so that you can see new leaks instead of chasing down old leaks or things tossed up onto your engine from the road. Then, put a sheet of clean cardboard under your car when you park it for the night. The oil will leak down onto the cardboard, giving you a place to start looking. Note, however, that the oil may have leaked from somewhere entirely different than where it is dripping--the leak may have first fallen onto a structural member, which then permitted the oil to flow downward to the ground. Still, with a clean engine, you should be able to trace the oil drip back to its source pretty easily.

The most common oil leaks occur from an oil filter whose seal has gotten pinched and isn't fitting correctly (something that will fix itself with your next oil and filter change) or a worn oil pan drain plug gasket (also something that can be fixed for pennies at your next oil change). You might also find oil weeping from an oil pressure sensor--again, an inexpensive and relatively easy fix. Next up, you might find oil weeping from a valve cover gasket or possibly even from the gasket between the engine and the oil pan itself. Replacing a valve cover gasket is a relatively minor repair; replacing the oil pan gasket would likely be more complicated because I don't believe you can drop the oil pan on this car without first having to pull the drive shafts (a fair amount of labor). You can also check out your EGR system to see whether any of the hoses in that system have become oil saturated and are starting to drip. Once you're past those possibilities, though, you're quite possibly starting to look at seals and gaskets that are rather more expensive to access and replace.

Lots of older cars tend to start "marking their territory" with the occasional drop of oil on the ground. If it's going to be an expensive fix, you might just learn to deal with that new behavior. A bit of clay-based kitty litter under your car, for example, can absorb quite a bit of oil. Conversely, if you have a serious oil leak, it's something you'll need to address so that you don't run the risk of a catastrophic blow-out, major loss of oil, and the potential for engine damage.

I share your frustration with the same machine. Mine is approx 3-4 months old and within the first month i had a leak at the base of the machine which was fixed under warranty. The following month the machine started leaving water in the base of the unit after the wash cycle was complete. LG claim it is an electronic fault in the circuit board. I have refused repair and am now claiming a replacement with them. I don't feel it is acceptable for a machine that's only 3months old to give problems such as these.

Hi

If your coffeemaker appears to be clogged. Create a vinegar and water solution and flush the concoction through your coffeemaker pump. This will help dissolve build up in your coffeemaker. If you do this once a month, your coffeemaker pump won't clog.Unplug the coffeemaker and inspect the pump valve. Water won't rise through the fill tube if the pump valve is stuck or broken. If your pump is sealed, replace the pump. If the pump valve is accessible, make sure there are no coffee grounds or mineral deposits around it.
Also check the brewing switch is in good working order. Remove the base plate on your coffeemaker and test the switch with a volt-ohm meter. Set your volt-ohm meter on the RX1 scale. If your switch reads zero ohms, your switch works fine. If it reads anything other than zero, replace the switch. Also take a look at the tube connectors, if your coffeemaker is sputtering, leaking or steaming. Leaks in pump coffeemakers are often due to faulty tube connectors. Unplug the coffeemaker and fill the reservoir with water. If water leaks from an elbow, clean the mating surfaces before replacing it. If your water leaks from a tube connector, replace the tube and mating elbow to ensure a good fit.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
Thank you for contacting fixya.com

If the simple resets are not clearing the ERR 2 code, I would advise you to call Kitchenaid Customer Service. The Pro Line appliances have a 2 year warranty from the date of purchase. If you have access to a dated sales receipt or credit card statement verifying the purchase, please make sure you have it in hand. They may request it to be sent in to complete a Hassle-Free warranty exchange on that unit.

Their toll-free phone number is 1-800-541-6390.

Water leaking in the DGB-600 is mainly caused by heated water escaping from its proper path. There is a rubber grommet on the underside of the upper part of the coffeemaker. (It contacts the lid over the filter basket when the front door is closed.) The design in this area is very poor; the grommet does not seat properly in the fixed part of the coffeemaker, and heated water seeps out. Also, the heated water tube that comes up through the cold water reservoir is actually in 2 pieces. One goes inside of the other, but there is no seal. It is a loose enough fit that some steam escapes, condenses on the inside top surface of the coffeemaker, and then finds its way down to add to the leaking. I completely disassembled my coffeemaker (3 of the screws in the upper compartment are hidden under small circular plugs that look like they are part of the plastic surface), and used high temperature automotive RTV sealer to help the rubber grommet seal better, and to seal the 2-piece hot water tube. Works great now! But I must say that I have seen better engineering in childs' toys!

You can try cleaning the unit first and if that doesn't work you can contact Cuisinart Warranty at 1-800-726-0190 and see what they can do for you. Do you have the original user manual that came with the machine?

As per my book on my unit (DCC-2000) you can try decalcifying the unit. I have never had any problems with that, but I use filtered water all the time and that may be the reason mine is working very well (except leak) after 18 months of age.

Per user manual....

Decalcification refers to removing the calcium deposits which form over time on the metal parts of the coffeemaker.

For best performance from your coffeemaker, decalcify the base unit from time to time. The frequency depends upon the hardness of the tap water and how often you use the coffeemaker.

To clean, fill the water reservoir to capacity with a mixture of 1/3 white vinegar and 2/3 water. Turn the coffeemaker on by turning the ON/OFF knob. One cycle should be sufficient to adequately clean the coffeemaker. When the cycle is completed and the five beeps sound, turn coffeemaker off. Repeat operation, this time using fresh cold water.


Good luck and I hope this helps your problem.

Coffeediva22

Water leaking in the DGB-600 is mainly caused by heated water escaping from its proper path. There is a rubber grommet on the underside of the upper part of the coffeemaker. (It contacts the lid over the filter basket when the front door is closed.) The design in this area is very poor; the grommet does not seat properly in the fixed part of the coffeemaker, and heated water seeps out. Also, the heated water tube that comes up through the cold water reservoir is actually in 2 pieces. One goes inside of the other, but there is no seal. It is a loose enough fit that some steam escapes, condenses on the inside top surface of the coffeemaker, and then finds its way down to add to the leaking. I completely disassembled my coffeemaker (3 of the screws in the upper compartment are hidden under small circular plugs that look like they are part of the plastic surface), and used high temperature automotive RTV sealer to help the rubber grommet seal better, and to seal the 2-piece hot water tube. Works great! But I must say that i have seen better engineering in child's toys!